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my 2006 lr3 will always crank but it won't always start. Auto Zone says the battery is OK when they load tested it. Battery is only 5 months old, but it factory specs Duralast . Could this be a battery or a starter issue? Before I took battery to Auto Zone, I suspected the battery because even though i had lights, radio, etc, i decided to try and jump it off. Well, it started right up after 2 cranks. I've taken it to 2 different shops and since there is never a "Check Engine" light on, the code scanner doesn't show anything and of course, the truck starts every time. Any help is very appreciated.
If starter turns the engine over (cranks) then electrical high current wiring and battery are being subjected to maximum demand, and they are producing the desired result, the motor is "turning over" (fan belt moves - as compared to starter making a high speed whirl, and not engaging the flywheel). So battery might not be the issue.
One sensor can keep you from starting, and when it does this it won't always make a code. That is the crank position sensor. However, the norm for these is to fail when engine is hot, then allow start when block cools down. This can be tested for by the DIY owner by removing a plug wire, attach to a spare spark plug carried for such a purpose, and laying plug on the manifold. Crank truck, and if no spark, certainly could point to that sensor. You can also pour cold water on the sensor to quicken the reset.
No start is basically turning the engine over, supply fuel, supply spark. So if any one of those is out, you will be stationary. Eliminate two of them, and the third becomes the suspect.
Could be fuel pressure related, your multiple attempts each bring on the fuel pump for a few seconds. Maybe a good idea to test fuel pressure. On a D1 the scharder test valve is on the passenger fuel rail, on a D2 it is under the corner of the upper intake maifold, not sure on a LR3.
I will test this out when i get home today. i will post my results.
Well, the engine started right up just now. This is my problem...I could try to start it in another hour and it will probably just crank and not start up. Is there a place where i can spray starter fluid in an LR3 like you use to do on old carburetor cars?
the engine has started on every try today. This is what happens when i take it to the shop. It sits at the shop for a couple of days because the engine always starts and the techs can't find anything wrong. I then go pick up the vehicle and the next day or two...no start, just cranking after cranking after cranking.
Perhaps you should have them (or another shop) look at the fuel temp sensor, which tells the ECU what to do if the fuel is above a certain temp and vapor lock is possible. This could cause a problem with "hot restarts". So can a bad fuel pressure regulator, and the engine coolant temp sensor. The Crank Position sensor can cause this also (by not producing spark - ECU uses it to determine engine is turning and where it should be at that point of revolution). So if you have no spark, look toward Crank sensor, if you have no fuel it goes down another path. Spraying starting fluid might not be the best choice.
Truck started this morning, but decided to put my scanner on it even though Check Engine light was not on. Well, for the 1st time i see P0628 - Fuel Pump Control Circuit Low. Is the fuel pump easy for an amateur like me to get to? If not, I will take it to the shop.
You might want some more diagnostics before buying a $700+ pump..... let the shop look at it for maybe an hour or less of time, before any parts replaced. Some codes only display light after two or four times in a row.
I grit my teeth and took my truck to the LR Dealership. Finally, they were able to see the trouble and diagnosed it as a faulty cam shaft sensor. The damage to my pocketbook is only $325 or so. thanks to everyones suggestions.
Cranks but no start
