Dang this rain, leaking LR3 front passenger side floor
#15
Well ignoring the drain issue is not the recommended course of action. Luckily we had a very dry rainy season last year. Thankfully we are getting rain this year. The down side, leaking passenger side sunroof drain. The carpet on the passenger side was soaked. The thick padding underneath was saturated. I pulled it up best I could and jammed some beach towels under the padding to absorb as much water as possible. Abran is too far away or I would have let him do the fix.
I pulled the lower footwell cover and the lower glove box. The hinge pins easily push out with a small nail or Allen wrench. They each push out to the center. Be sure to disconnect the battery.
The central junction box has two 10mm nuts on the bottom, they are usually hidden by assorted wire looms. The cjb has the large connectors on the front, two on the top and one below and a thin long connector on the bottom. It has two others on the back. They all come off pretty easily. They are awkward to reinstall. Once the two 10mm nuts are removed, the cjb can be pulled towards you from the bottom. It will the pull down, it has two little nubs on the top that push up into place. You will have to push and pull various wire looms to get the cjb down and out. Okay. Now that is the easy part.
The drain tube tube is behind the cjb. It slides into a 90’ nipple that is about two or three inches long. The 90’ pushes into the side of the body and exits through the vent on the passenger side front quarter panel. My tube had been pulled out of the 90’. Water drained freely directly into the cabin. The tube was clean and free of debris. Not surprising given that it flushed everything onto the carpet!
The drain tube and 90’ were in great shape. I slid the tube back into the 90’ and pushed the 90’ back into the side of the body. It had about an inch of overlap. I tried to take photos but it is a really tight space. Most of the work is done by feel.
I did did not open the sunroof before disconnecting the battery and removing the cjb. While that prohibits the testing the drain before reinstalling the cjb, if something goes wrong the sunroof isn’t stuck open. After I got the cjb reinstalled and reconnected the batteryi tested the tube, water flowed freely, out of the cabin and onto the ground!
Reinstalling the the cjb is a pain. Not impossible. The rear plugs are tough. I ended up doing it all by feel. There is just no room to twist the cjb enough to plug in the rear connectors. The front ones aren’t much easier. Land Rover didn’t leave much extra wire to allow for slack on any of the connectors.
Lots us of things to scratch yourself on as you cram your arm up and around to remove and reinstall the cjb. On the foul-language scale this was about a 5 of 10. Thankfully I was working alone and my wife and kids weren’t home.
Carpet is dry. Mat is still wet. I am leaving the windows open and leaving the passenger door open to get as much drying as possible. I wedged a plastic liter bottle up under the padding to provide more venting.
It took about 1 1/2 to 2 hours to do the job. Probably could do it in less than an hour now. I horsed around for a long time trying to twist the cjb to reconnect the rear plugs. Did some first aid on my right arm and left hand knuckles and a trip to 7/11 for a diet Dr Pepper!
One of the 10mm nuts was missing on the bottom of the cjb. I am thinking that someone had been in there before.
When I removed the cjb I found one random loose brown wire. I will attach a photo. I have no idea what it connects to. Ideas? I couldn’t figure out what it goes to. Everything seems to work, until it won’t!
Ideas?
(Rear brakes and replacing the defective, recently replaced thermostat housing are next on the to do list).
Thanks again for the forum. It is a lifesaver.
We we will be getting rid of a few cars and three or four motorcycles soon. We need to sell a 2004 4runner, great trouble free vehicle, our 2006 Range Rover Sport with 39,000 miles and probably the 2005 LR3. Kids are all off to college and we don’t need it for the family road trips. It is nice when everyone is back in town! Love the 7 seats. It is Tonga green, tan interior with the HD package. (Hate the cracked dash). I might do that cover that Abran did on his. I need to check his out.
My wife has been driving the LR3 since we bought it. We had a Toyota Land Cruiser when we got the LR3. Up until recently she loved it. She has been driving the 2010 Range Rover Sport for the last month or so. She really likes it. More comfortable, lots more power, slightly more tech feature, oddly no seat heaters!
Phil
2005 LR3
2006 Range Rover Sport
2010 Range Rover Sport
4 Toyota 4runners (yes 4, each of the kids has one and we have an extra)
Chevy Truck
96 Porsche 993
and too many motorcycles
I pulled the lower footwell cover and the lower glove box. The hinge pins easily push out with a small nail or Allen wrench. They each push out to the center. Be sure to disconnect the battery.
The central junction box has two 10mm nuts on the bottom, they are usually hidden by assorted wire looms. The cjb has the large connectors on the front, two on the top and one below and a thin long connector on the bottom. It has two others on the back. They all come off pretty easily. They are awkward to reinstall. Once the two 10mm nuts are removed, the cjb can be pulled towards you from the bottom. It will the pull down, it has two little nubs on the top that push up into place. You will have to push and pull various wire looms to get the cjb down and out. Okay. Now that is the easy part.
The drain tube tube is behind the cjb. It slides into a 90’ nipple that is about two or three inches long. The 90’ pushes into the side of the body and exits through the vent on the passenger side front quarter panel. My tube had been pulled out of the 90’. Water drained freely directly into the cabin. The tube was clean and free of debris. Not surprising given that it flushed everything onto the carpet!
The drain tube and 90’ were in great shape. I slid the tube back into the 90’ and pushed the 90’ back into the side of the body. It had about an inch of overlap. I tried to take photos but it is a really tight space. Most of the work is done by feel.
I did did not open the sunroof before disconnecting the battery and removing the cjb. While that prohibits the testing the drain before reinstalling the cjb, if something goes wrong the sunroof isn’t stuck open. After I got the cjb reinstalled and reconnected the batteryi tested the tube, water flowed freely, out of the cabin and onto the ground!
Reinstalling the the cjb is a pain. Not impossible. The rear plugs are tough. I ended up doing it all by feel. There is just no room to twist the cjb enough to plug in the rear connectors. The front ones aren’t much easier. Land Rover didn’t leave much extra wire to allow for slack on any of the connectors.
Lots us of things to scratch yourself on as you cram your arm up and around to remove and reinstall the cjb. On the foul-language scale this was about a 5 of 10. Thankfully I was working alone and my wife and kids weren’t home.
Carpet is dry. Mat is still wet. I am leaving the windows open and leaving the passenger door open to get as much drying as possible. I wedged a plastic liter bottle up under the padding to provide more venting.
It took about 1 1/2 to 2 hours to do the job. Probably could do it in less than an hour now. I horsed around for a long time trying to twist the cjb to reconnect the rear plugs. Did some first aid on my right arm and left hand knuckles and a trip to 7/11 for a diet Dr Pepper!
One of the 10mm nuts was missing on the bottom of the cjb. I am thinking that someone had been in there before.
When I removed the cjb I found one random loose brown wire. I will attach a photo. I have no idea what it connects to. Ideas? I couldn’t figure out what it goes to. Everything seems to work, until it won’t!
Ideas?
(Rear brakes and replacing the defective, recently replaced thermostat housing are next on the to do list).
Thanks again for the forum. It is a lifesaver.
We we will be getting rid of a few cars and three or four motorcycles soon. We need to sell a 2004 4runner, great trouble free vehicle, our 2006 Range Rover Sport with 39,000 miles and probably the 2005 LR3. Kids are all off to college and we don’t need it for the family road trips. It is nice when everyone is back in town! Love the 7 seats. It is Tonga green, tan interior with the HD package. (Hate the cracked dash). I might do that cover that Abran did on his. I need to check his out.
My wife has been driving the LR3 since we bought it. We had a Toyota Land Cruiser when we got the LR3. Up until recently she loved it. She has been driving the 2010 Range Rover Sport for the last month or so. She really likes it. More comfortable, lots more power, slightly more tech feature, oddly no seat heaters!
Phil
2005 LR3
2006 Range Rover Sport
2010 Range Rover Sport
4 Toyota 4runners (yes 4, each of the kids has one and we have an extra)
Chevy Truck
96 Porsche 993
and too many motorcycles
#17
if your pollen filter is dry and your headliner/interior a pillar finisher is dry its your sunroof drain nipple behind the CJB.
The easy check is pop off the fender vent, remove rubber bladder and foam insert. You will have a perfect view of the nipple. I have been doing sunroof drain repairs like nobody's business the last month.
80% of the time its the nipple. The new design is wide open, where as the old one is pinched into a cross. Debris builds up in the cross shaped out flow section and rots the rubber of the nipple away. It becomes dis lodged from the hole in the fender and drains directly into your interior.
The easy check is pop off the fender vent, remove rubber bladder and foam insert. You will have a perfect view of the nipple. I have been doing sunroof drain repairs like nobody's business the last month.
80% of the time its the nipple. The new design is wide open, where as the old one is pinched into a cross. Debris builds up in the cross shaped out flow section and rots the rubber of the nipple away. It becomes dis lodged from the hole in the fender and drains directly into your interior.
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abran (08-28-2019)
#18
which side is leaking. The driver’s side is much easier to repair compared to the passenger side. The passenger side will require the unbolting of the central fuse box. Not particularly difficult just time consuming and in a tight spot. Both sides are dyi. For the first time through, Say an hour tops for the driver’s side and an hour and a half for the passenger side.
The job may require a trip to the hardware or auto parts store for the required hoses and unions. I think that I ordered the unions on eBay or amazon. They were only a couple of dollars. The hose I got at the auto parts store. I took the piece that I was removing and took it to the store to get a piece to slide it into for a tight fit.
The job may require a trip to the hardware or auto parts store for the required hoses and unions. I think that I ordered the unions on eBay or amazon. They were only a couple of dollars. The hose I got at the auto parts store. I took the piece that I was removing and took it to the store to get a piece to slide it into for a tight fit.
#19
Just nipples takes 30 min on driver side and at least an hour on pass side.
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Athana (09-03-2019)
#20