I had the low coolant warning when the expansion tank was full.
I replaced the thermostat and in doing so broke a very brittle bleed valve.
Ive since replaced the valve, re filled the expansion tank and removed the bleed screw.
i then started the engine and turned the heater on.
However i still cant get any coolant to bleed through.
What am i doing wrong?

 

From the workshop manual (for the 4.0L V6):

1 . Position the vehicle on a lift.
2 . Set the heater controls to maximum.
3 . Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Specifications
4 . Remove the engine cover.

Engine Cover - 4.0L (12.30.50)
5 . Remove the coolant expansion tank cap.
6 . Remove the front LH splash shield.
7 . Remove the radiator access panel.
8 . Position a container to collect the fluid.
9 . Release the clip and disconnect the radiator lower hose, allow the coolant to drain.
10 . Remove the container.
11 .Connect and secure the radiator lower hose.

12 . Connect the battery ground cable.

14 . Loosen the coolant expansion tank bleed screw.

15 . Fill the cooling system to the upper level mark of the expansion tank.
16 . Start and run the engine.

��

Hold the engine speed at 2,500 RPM for 30 seconds.

��

Return the engine to idle for 30 seconds.
�� Repeat the above procedure a further four times.

17 . Fill the cooling system, keeping coolant to the upper level mark of the expansion tank until a steady stream of
coolant is seen returning to the expansion tank. Tighten the bleed screw.

18 . Install the coolant expansion tank cap.

19 . Run the engine until the thermostat opens.
20 . Check the heater for correct operation.
21 . Switch the engine off and allow to cool.

22 . Install the engine cover.

23 . Clean any remaining coolant from the chassis and surrounding area.

24 . Install the radiator access panel.
�� Tighten the 4 bolts to 10 Nm (7 lb.ft).

25 . Install the front LH splash shield.

26 . NOTE :

When the cooling system is warm, the coolant will be approximately 30mm above the upper level mark on the

expansion tank with the cap fitted.

 

Got it thanks.
The heater is blowing very hot but the gauges are all normal with no computer warnings any where.
I think the initial problem was a broken bleed valve and not the thermostat.
I'm thinking this is why i had the low coolant reading but the temp gauge was all good. I know there have been a few reports of faulty low coolant gauges but the car was defiantly overheating and went into some kind of safe mode until it cooled down.

 

the procedure for the 4.4L V8 is different, FYI. Which engive do you have?

 

4.4 v8

 

okay, 4.4 is the same through step #15; difference starting at #16. Seems a little odd to me, but it's what the manual says. Anybody else want to chime in?

16 . Tighten the bleed screw.
17 . Install the coolant expansion tank cap.

18 . Start and run the engine at idle until the normal operating temperature is reached.
19 .
WARNING: Release the cooling system pressure by slowly turning the coolant expansion tank cap a

quarter of a turn. Cover the expansion tank cap with a thick cloth to prevent the possibility of scalding. Failure

to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.
NOTE : When the coolant bleed is complete and prior to installing the expansion tank cap, top-up the expansion tank to 30mm above the maximum level.
Switch the engine off.

��

Remove the coolant expansion cap, allow the level to settle and top-up so that the level is 30mm above the
upper level.

�� Allow the engine to cool.
20 . Install the engine cover.
21 . Clean any spilt coolant from the vehicle.
22 . Install the radiator access panel.
Tighten the 4 bolts to 10 Nm (7 lb.ft).
23 . Install the front LH splash shield.

 

Hello to all,

We've had our 2005 LR3 (4.4 v8) since new. Currently has 60k miles. Been a great trouble free vehicle since.
It recently overheated on us, and it ended up getting so hot that it melted the black plastic thermostat housing, causing the coolant to spill out.

I Just replaced & installed the new housing, and now am having a bleeding issue. I've tried following the instructions listed in this thread, but I still get cold air coming out of the air vents (when set at hot)..and on top of that I cant seem to get the coolant to seamlessly circulate fully throughout the engine..thus causing the engine to overheat even while at idle..if left on long enough..

Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!

 

Yes; your engine could be toast. How long/far did you drive after the temp gauge went hot? And what were tge circumstances? If it was hot enough to melt the plastic, engine damage is likely. Also, overheating at idle is not a good sign either. Seems like the initial cause of the overheat is not cured.

Some things to consider:
Buy a combustion leak/head gasket test kit at an auto parts store. Tests for combustion gases in coolant.
Drain and flush cooling system thoroughly.
Check radiator for blockage/buildup and replace if necessary.
Pressure test the cooling system for leaks.
Check fan and belts
Possible water pump not flowing

A little more info might help us diagnose the issue and give more helpful advice

 

Hi,

Did not drive it to far, it first gave a reduced engine performance message on the instrument screen, so @ tht point i pulled over and shut the engine off (thats also whn i noticed the temp gauge being high).

After a couple minutes turned it back on and evry thing seemed normal. Continued driving for a few more miles and evefything was fine. Went to a local hardware store, and right when i parked the temp gauge got hot again...so i parked (this is when i should have turned it off)..but i was releasing pressure from the bleed valve, and there was a lot of continuous pressure. And thats when tht small hole gave way on the plastic housing. From there i had it towed back to my house.

I should also state that back in april the thermostat housing top developed a hairline crack in it.so i changed that..thus leading me to believe i may have not gotten all the air out of the system..

I was trying to bleed the system lastnight but it was a shoot or miss. Some points it would all of a sudden start making a gurgling sound and all the coolant would start flowing...but then other times couldnt get the coolant to circulate..im still thinking there are quite a few air bubbles trapped in there.

 

Okay i may have had some success. I now get hot air coming from the vents and the vehicle settles @ 203 degrees at idle with the vent off. If i turn the hot air on it'll go down a couple degrees.

Does this temp range seem normal for idle?..i got the temp via my scan tool...

Still have not got the guts to take it out for a test run :/ Also, is it normal for the heater core rubber hoses to be so hot that you cant keep your hand on it for more than 5 seconds?

Thanks!