LR3 heater core
#11
03-26-2017, 06:49 PM
Pro Wrench
Nissens, not Nissen, I gather.
I did a little more research and discovered that the manufacturer is Nissens, pural, (rather than singular); also it is an auto parts company, not a car manufacturer - silly me!
Are you saying that the unit you received from Rock Auto was not exact fit, but instead close to?
Yah, that can kind of slow up the do it yourself process.
I wonder is the Nissens unit is trouble as well?
https://nissens.com/en-us/automotive/heaters.aspx
Are you saying that the unit you received from Rock Auto was not exact fit, but instead close to?
Yah, that can kind of slow up the do it yourself process.
I wonder is the Nissens unit is trouble as well?
https://nissens.com/en-us/automotive/heaters.aspx
#12
03-26-2017, 07:51 PM
That's correct. Im looking for a photo or my order information for the heater core and I cannot find it. It's not listed on RockAuto anymore.
The difference was how the input and output shafts connected. As you can see on the diagram here:
https://www.landroverpartsinternatio...-E-s/10849.htm
The input and output (part 9) have an additional flange/clamp on the bottom 1/3 then attaches to the body of the core (part 8) with another flange and clamp. The core I received did not have the flange/clamp/o-ring where it joins the core. The input and output had an o-ring but the body of the core was flanged out and punched in around the input/output. They were left loose and you aligned them how you wish then took a small punch and made the joint solid. The LR3 system uses a clamp and flange. However, the clamp and flange are horribly finicky and even worse when you're standing on your head in the footwell.
The difference was how the input and output shafts connected. As you can see on the diagram here:
https://www.landroverpartsinternatio...-E-s/10849.htm
The input and output (part 9) have an additional flange/clamp on the bottom 1/3 then attaches to the body of the core (part 8) with another flange and clamp. The core I received did not have the flange/clamp/o-ring where it joins the core. The input and output had an o-ring but the body of the core was flanged out and punched in around the input/output. They were left loose and you aligned them how you wish then took a small punch and made the joint solid. The LR3 system uses a clamp and flange. However, the clamp and flange are horribly finicky and even worse when you're standing on your head in the footwell.
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bbyer (03-26-2017)
#13
03-26-2017, 09:37 PM
Pro Wrench
Maybe what you got was better?
It almost sounds like the assembly you received while maybe requiring more steps or effort, was in a practical sense, a better design.
I guess the factory heater core presumes that all the pipes have remained in perfect alignment and that the body has not in anyway twisted.
It would be interesting to hear from others who have attempted to change out the heater core themselves.
I guess the factory heater core presumes that all the pipes have remained in perfect alignment and that the body has not in anyway twisted.
It would be interesting to hear from others who have attempted to change out the heater core themselves.
#14
03-27-2017, 05:36 AM
4wd Low
Join Date: May 2014
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To answer your question about AB telling me not to attempt this job and send it to a shop-they didn't give me a reason other than that it's a difficult job.
I purchased the Nissens heater core off of Lucky 8 (their website has really grown in the last year!) and I've got three gallon jugs of dexcool ready to go. We hope to tackle the job this coming weekend so I can have my baby back. Being heavily pregnant, I'll probably let my boyfriend take lead on this one and I'll "supervise". lol
Did you have any trouble on bleeding the air out properly?
I purchased the Nissens heater core off of Lucky 8 (their website has really grown in the last year!) and I've got three gallon jugs of dexcool ready to go. We hope to tackle the job this coming weekend so I can have my baby back. Being heavily pregnant, I'll probably let my boyfriend take lead on this one and I'll "supervise". lol
Did you have any trouble on bleeding the air out properly?
#15
03-27-2017, 10:33 AM
Pro Wrench
line the foot well with polythene
it sounds like the most important step in the whole procedure is line the footwell with a few layers of heavy polythene and then lay an inch of newspaper on top of the poly.
The newsprint will soak up the soilled coolant and the poly will keep the excess from soaking into the carpets. At least then, when the heater core is actually back in place, the trick will be to get the air out of the cooling system rather than cleaning up coolant from the carpet - it never drys; takes forever to evaporate etc so the newsprint and poly is an easy fix for a problem that need not be.
Keep up informed as to your success; also keep the boyfriend well fed but the beer stays in the fridge until the heater is back working. Your baby, (the real one), will be depending upon the 3 to get around in comfort in the coming months.
The newsprint will soak up the soilled coolant and the poly will keep the excess from soaking into the carpets. At least then, when the heater core is actually back in place, the trick will be to get the air out of the cooling system rather than cleaning up coolant from the carpet - it never drys; takes forever to evaporate etc so the newsprint and poly is an easy fix for a problem that need not be.
Keep up informed as to your success; also keep the boyfriend well fed but the beer stays in the fridge until the heater is back working. Your baby, (the real one), will be depending upon the 3 to get around in comfort in the coming months.
#16
03-27-2017, 11:55 AM
Camel Trophy
I did a little more research and discovered that the manufacturer is Nissens, pural, (rather than singular); also it is an auto parts company, not a car manufacturer - silly me!
Are you saying that the unit you received from Rock Auto was not exact fit, but instead close to?
Yah, that can kind of slow up the do it yourself process.
I wonder is the Nissens unit is trouble as well?
https://nissens.com/en-us/automotive/heaters.aspx
Are you saying that the unit you received from Rock Auto was not exact fit, but instead close to?
Yah, that can kind of slow up the do it yourself process.
I wonder is the Nissens unit is trouble as well?
https://nissens.com/en-us/automotive/heaters.aspx
#17
03-27-2017, 12:50 PM
Pro Wrench
I alway use Datsun.
My excuse for not seeing that the car manufacturer is Nissan, is that I call them all Datsuns.
I suppose that is worse, however I fondly recall the Datsun 510, of the late sixties / early seventies - a very good car at the time.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datsun_510
I suppose that is worse, however I fondly recall the Datsun 510, of the late sixties / early seventies - a very good car at the time.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datsun_510
#19
03-28-2017, 08:37 AM
My excuse for not seeing that the car manufacturer is Nissan, is that I call them all Datsuns.
I suppose that is worse, however I fondly recall the Datsun 510, of the late sixties / early seventies - a very good car at the time.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datsun_510
I suppose that is worse, however I fondly recall the Datsun 510, of the late sixties / early seventies - a very good car at the time.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datsun_510
#20
10-07-2020, 01:44 PM
I will probably do a proper Heater Core flush this coming weekend, at the same time that I will be doing a complete Coolant Flush. Will probably just disconnect the hoses, and use some hose pipes to flush it through a few times, in both directions. Will also Use Citric Acid, and maybe a very small amount of laundry detergent. Haven't really studied the hoses yet - I'm assuming there are probably 2, one inlet and one outlet, and hopefully they aren't too difficult to get to or release / fit back together. I'll assume that I may need new clamps, just in case? I'll study this more by the time I begin the process. I don't think the Heater core is too dirty or clogged - I don't think I have uneven heating out of the vents. So hopefully I won't need to remove it, but I will save this thread, in case I do need to ever swap it out.
Cheers, Simon
Cheers, Simon