I have typically undertaken all outside of warranty repairs and mods on vehicles I've owned and find myself a bit detached from costs. Understanding there is geographical variance, any insight as to the cost of the following;

75,000/105,000 Mile Service & 90,000/120,000 Mile Service

Land Rover maintenance checklist for every 75,000 and 105,000 miles includes:

Everything at the 15,000 mile interval
Check adjustment of electric parking brake
Check torque of tie rod ends, tighten
Change transfer gearbox oil
Change locking differential oil
*Replace serpentine drive belts at the 105,000 mile interval

Land Rover maintenance checklist for every 90,000 and 120,000 miles includes:

Everything at the 15,000 mile interval
Check condition and security of seats and seat belts
Change brake fluid (only at 90,000 mile interval)
Replace spark plugs (only at 90,000 mile interval)
Inspect steering ball joints for wear, damaged dist covers
Inspect condition and operation of suspension and steering components, boots, ball joints and drive shafts
Check torque of tire rod ends, tighten
Inspect brake, fuel lines, PAS hoses and unions
Inspect electrical harnesses for corrected routing and damage
Replace flexible brake hoses (only at 90,000 mile interval)
Replace air-cleaner element (only at 120,000 mile interval)
Change automatic transmission fluid and filter (only at 120,000 mile interval)
Change front and rear axle oil (only at 120,000 mile interval)

 

I think you know well enough about the costs of fluids, oils, and spark plugs so there's no point in going into detail about those

As far as major things that happen with LR3's (they mainly have to do with the weight of the truck):

They eat hubs - fronts more so than the rear, but its still an issue. Hubs aren't super expensive and I think you can actually get the hub for about $50 or so, CV shaft for $75ish. Some place will do the pair for $100-150. Which isn't horrible

Control Arm bushings - These things typically last about 70k-100k miles. I've seen more fronts go than rears (typically the lowers), but as with the hubs, it can / will happen in the rear too.
You have many options on how to tackle this. You can source new control arms (I suggest range rover sport arms - stiffer bushings) or buy a bushing kit and change everything all at once. New arms are somewhere around $200-300 each. Might as well change both sides while you're there. Be ready, because the bolts tend to seize up when in there from rust.

Ball joints seem to go a bit, those are cheap (come with new lower control arms)

You need to buy the LR4 front diff breather - will save you having to replace diff bearings in the front ($25 part - 10 minute install vs 500-1K+ for front diff rebuild)
The rear bearings will go between 150k-200k miles - not really avoidable.
I don't mess with differentials or rear ends so I take mine to a shop (roughly $250 labor) + $200 for bearing kit. You can opt to go with ARB locker at that point ($900-1000) and never have to worry about the diff rebuild, but that adds cost for air lines, compressor, and mounting / wiring the switches

Air suspension - this one is tricky. The ride height sensors can sometimes go ($100), the air strut ($300) can / will eventually go, some have even been unlucky enough to have compressor / airline (no idea of cost) issues. I would suggest changing the ride height every single time you turn the car off. One time in access, one time normal, one time off road. This will help keep things functioning as well as keep the air strut bladder from getting any soft / weak points from sitting at the same level all the time. Maybe that's all mental to me, but I'm still going to do it hahaha

There is also a stop light switch that will immobilize your vehicle, you need to buy and keep spares

Those are the main things that go with these.
1. Hubs - Keep a spare in vehicle if you go off road!!!
2. Control arm bushings + ball joints - Things get loud and the vehicle will let you know when its time
3. Diff's - Buy the front breather, the sound / feel will also let you know when the rear diff is ready
4. Air suspension - fast leaks will immobilize the vehicle, slow leaks can be visible if monitored. It's best to test the air suspension twice a year. There are procedure here or on disco3.uk
5. Stop light switch - $15 part - will immobilize. Buy 2-3 and keep in the vehicle at all times

Cheers

 

Your comment about the hubs is interesting. I have 124,000 Miles and have changed the fronts, I think...just once. Doesn't seem as consumable as the LCA bushings (certainly not a part I would choose to tote with me on a trail). Air struts don't really go that often. Seems like they are good for 100k Miles and even then it seems like just the front passenger one goes (weird, huh?) and the compressor is the weak link.

 

Very kind of you to take the time to respond with such detail. I need to digest.

 

I assume the breather is similar to what I would have used on my Jeep JKU? It was a contained/closed accordion style tube that would expand and contract but keep water, dirt, dust etc.. out of the Axles.

 

Thanks for the detailed post, zoltan7!

 

Yes, it's something like that.

It's from a LR4 actually. I attached the link. You don't need to specifically buy from this site, but it provides the part number. It's basically just a GoreTex membrane in the cap that is breathable but non permeable to water, dirt, dust.

All you do is slice off about an inch of the factory one (right beside your coolant reservoir / power steering reservoir) angled with the cut towards the firewall. Then slide the new one on. Takes literally 5 minutes including popping and opening the hood lol


VENT VALVE AXLE DRIVE UNIT BREATHER LR3., LR019450 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts

 

My take on ownership of a 10year old vehicle is it will cost me $1000 - $2000 a year for maintenance. This my budget and it will cover replacing items as they inevitably wear out. This figure is an average for me... some years much less with the knowledge that some years will be significantly more. This also includes body repair from rust which these trucks don't seem to suffer with.

 

I change the front and rear differentials every other oil change. So basically they get changed once a year. It's easy, cheap, and I don't have problems.

 

$200/month over the long term.