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Suspension Fault and Cold Weather

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  #11  
Old 01-18-2017, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by houm_wa
Couldn't he first clear the faults by doing a hard reset, THEN run the compressor to get it to Normal height and then pull the fuses?
He stated in two separate posts that the fault sets immediately, even before the engine has a chance to start. Even if the fault didn't set immediately, running the compressor when the compressor isn't commanded on, will likely set a fault anyway.
 
  #12  
Old 01-18-2017, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by LR Techniker
If the suspension module set a fault for suspension and disabled the suspension, no amount of compressor running will help. The compressor doesn't go straight to the air springs, it puts pressure to the front and rear cornering valves and the cornering valves distribute the air to the air springs individually. These valves are normally closed and with the suspension disabled, they will stay closed.
Plus, two things are monitored when the compressor is running: gallery pressure and compressor temperature. Blindly running the compressor like that will override the monitoring of pressure and temperature which if ignored, will likely toast a so far good compressor.
I'd pay the tow bill and get it diagnosed, or purchase a scantool that can diagnose it, which will be useful for as long as you own the vehicle.
Thanks for this. I noticed when I got the compressor running that no air was going into the bags, so figured the valves were somehow closed.

Early on, I did try a hard reset to clear faults hoping I could get the suspension aired up, but the fault kept reoccurring immediately, so no luck there. I've got it scheduled to get into the stealership next week so hopefully get a handle on what's happening shortly. I'll update the post when I get some new info.

Thanks again for the insight.
 
  #13  
Old 01-23-2017, 06:41 PM
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So quick update. I ordered the 4DCan Diag tool from RSW Solutions to see if I could read/clear the faults and get the system working again. The first read reported "Compressor circuit" and then "rear height sensor mechanism" for both left and right. I went ahead and cleared the faults, only to see the red EAS fault trip almost immediately again. When I re-red the codes, the "compressor circuit" fault did not reappear, but the "height sensor mechanism" faults did. So, apparently as I let my ride sit for about 3 weeks, the rear height sensors failed? I have a hard time believing this and curious if anyone else has any ideas on testing the height sensors?

Thanks for all the input so far.
 
  #14  
Old 01-23-2017, 07:40 PM
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One final update that has the solution.

Was reviewing other threads discussing failure of two or more height sensors and came across the answer on a Defender forum somewhere. I run Johnson Rods which are shorter than the stock rods and trick the LR into raising an additional 2". Apparently, if you run the J rods and the LR goes down all the way to the stops, then the height sensors are out of range, throws the red EAS fault and disables the EAS. The trick was to simply jack the rear of the LR up a few inches to get the height sensors back in range, and voila, no more faults and the EAS aired up as supposed to (well I had to cycle the engine a few times as it thought it was in extended mode, then access, and then back to normal). AT any rate, problem solved and hope this helps anyone with similar issues in the future. Also, thanks to all who weighed in on the thread; the contribution by members here is invaluable.
 
  #15  
Old 01-23-2017, 11:25 PM
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If that diag tool also lets you calibrate the EAS and save settings, you might consider creating a modified height setting and using it in lieu of the shortened rods, unless you really want to run the rods full time.

Also, your description of the solution doesn't account for how your LR3 got down to the bumpstops in the first place. The rest makes sense and I've seen that once before.
 
  #16  
Old 01-24-2017, 06:50 AM
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I think it was a wise choice to purchase the diagnostic tool, because I'd be willing to bet a dealer would have sold you two rear sensors and likely discarded your J-rods.

I also agree with houm_wa. Check with the tool and see if it will let you modify suspension settings. J-rods are OK, but I'd rather just let the car do the work, if available.
 
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