Transmission Shifting Problem
#21
09-05-2014, 09:17 AM
4wd High
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Knoxville TN
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Question on shifting tire issue
I bought my 2005 LR3 with some very worn 255/60' Kumho Road Venture APT tires on the rear and same almost new 255/60's Kumho Ventures on the front would the small tread difference cause my transmission to shift weird when stopping or slowing down. I had the software update done at the dealer and a flush completed with the wonderful red dr. tranny shutter fix. Shutter is gone, shifts are smooth but I get a clunk when slowing down or stopping. I occasionally (once a week) get the cruise control fault displayed on my cluster but no other lights are on. Truck has 110k on it and the previous owner had every service done at the dealer. Any ideas?
#22
01-17-2017, 11:22 PM
Similar issue...
Seems I spoke too soon. The problem has returned (so I guess it wasnt the LEDs). I've traced it down to one of the brake/tail lights. It's either a bad one or I guess it maybe the brake light switch. With the bulb removed all is well again. Don't have a replacement bulb yet, so we'll see what happens when I do put a new one in.
throttle it is hesitating shifting up from first to second gear. Under less than full pedal it shifts fine. I noticed one of the brake lights goes it by itself and goes
off or and after I **** tailgate.
Do do you think this might be similar to your issue. How did you track to faulty brake light. What issues were you having with truck? Any suggestions?
thanks much in advance
#23
01-18-2017, 04:56 AM
I just bought a 2006 Lr3 sweater V8 a few days ago with 54,000 miles on it. Had 4 new tires put on and a few bulbs replaced. Drove several hundred miles no problems. Today check engine came on and under full
throttle it is hesitating shifting up from first to second gear. Under less than full pedal it shifts fine. I noticed one of the brake lights goes it by itself and goes
off or and after I **** tailgate.
Do do you think this might be similar to your issue. How did you track to faulty brake light. What issues were you having with truck? Any suggestions?
thanks much in advance
throttle it is hesitating shifting up from first to second gear. Under less than full pedal it shifts fine. I noticed one of the brake lights goes it by itself and goes
off or and after I **** tailgate.
Do do you think this might be similar to your issue. How did you track to faulty brake light. What issues were you having with truck? Any suggestions?
thanks much in advance
First thing I would check is driving with your lights off (so don't put the switch in auto either). Don't know if US models have daytime driving lights I guess that won't be an option then.
I think in my case one of the normal tail lights was fused with the brake light filament (they're dual filament bulbs). So any time my lights were on my brake lights came on. As the car would "think" I was braking it would not upshift. This would happen at random times and later I figured that as I drive with the light switch in auto it could have happened when the auto lights came on.
I would start with replacing both taillight bulbs.
good luck!
ps; as you can read above changing tyres may cause issues as well. So double check the correct tyre pressure and if all tires are the same size.
Last edited by flyguy76; 01-18-2017 at 07:19 AM.
#24
01-24-2017, 11:57 AM
Update
OK, a few updates and still looking for any guidance:
1. Check engine light came on too, had a diag, came back as thermostat fault and they said they needed to replace a thermostat part (looks like a heart valve).
2. I noticed 1 of the rear brake lights was out, when I shut tail gate hard the light came back on. I had the brake lights replaced and still having same intermittent brake light out/on issue.
3. Check engine light has now gone off, but car still running very cold and very rich.
4. If I drive without lights on I don't receive any faults. If I turn lights on, about 15 mins later I get loads of faults, transmission fault, special programs fault, HDC fault, and loads of dash lights go on and cruis control doesn't work.
I do believe there is a legitimate thermostat issue, but the trans faults seem purely electrical related to lights. Any ideas?
Thank you all
1. Check engine light came on too, had a diag, came back as thermostat fault and they said they needed to replace a thermostat part (looks like a heart valve).
2. I noticed 1 of the rear brake lights was out, when I shut tail gate hard the light came back on. I had the brake lights replaced and still having same intermittent brake light out/on issue.
3. Check engine light has now gone off, but car still running very cold and very rich.
4. If I drive without lights on I don't receive any faults. If I turn lights on, about 15 mins later I get loads of faults, transmission fault, special programs fault, HDC fault, and loads of dash lights go on and cruis control doesn't work.
I do believe there is a legitimate thermostat issue, but the trans faults seem purely electrical related to lights. Any ideas?
Thank you all
#26
01-24-2017, 12:06 PM
#27
01-24-2017, 01:53 PM
Winching
Did you use genuine OEM brake light bulbs (or are the ones in there genuine)? Aftermarket bulbs can short out and cause faults as described. Bbyer explains it all on another forum:
Brake switch is a common failure, but it doesn't seem to follow your symptoms of no issues with no lights on. It's a cheap part though.
And yes, your thermostat is stuck open, which means you'll be running rich and potentially damaging your catalytic converters.
I might add that when replacing the rear dual filament bulbs, I suggest you purchase genuine Land Rover bulbs. (P21/5) which means a 21 watt brake filament and a 5 watt tail filament. An 1157 that looks similar has a 27 watt brake and 8 watt tail; an 1134, also similar has a 23 watt brake and an 8 watt tail. Also I think that you will find that when the P21/5 bulbs are properly inserted, all filaments are vertical. I presume standing up, that the filaments flex less under shock load in the vertical orientation; also when they break/burnout, the filaments tend not to fall on each other.
Apparently the Land Rover spec filaments are also a bit mechanically stronger than offshore alternatives. This matters, as when the filament burns out, it can drop onto the other filament and create a sort of short circuit. This shows up as a transmission or transfer case problem when the warning lights come on in the dash and the error codes are read. If you are on warrenty, and your dealer is aware of the connection between the taillight wiring and the computers, then maybe the fix will be quick - but for the most part, it is so strange a problem, that it takes months to resolve. Also if the brake light switch goes intermittently defective, it often shows up as a tranny or transfer case problem.
Regarding bulb specs and wattage, the reason I know a little about this is that it matters. I melted my front head light yellow side marker "holes" as I installed W5W bulbs rather than the W3W called for. They all look the same, however 5 watts makes more heat than 3 watts, so guess what happened?
It took me quite awhile to figure out the problem as I purchased what the dealer thought was the correct side marker lights. They did fit, were a bit brighter and worked for a while, so what could go wrong!
Also I have heard of some owners forcing the single filament bulbs into the lower two tail light bulb holes - this for certain shorts out things and results in the tranny / transfer case code woes.
Apparently the Land Rover spec filaments are also a bit mechanically stronger than offshore alternatives. This matters, as when the filament burns out, it can drop onto the other filament and create a sort of short circuit. This shows up as a transmission or transfer case problem when the warning lights come on in the dash and the error codes are read. If you are on warrenty, and your dealer is aware of the connection between the taillight wiring and the computers, then maybe the fix will be quick - but for the most part, it is so strange a problem, that it takes months to resolve. Also if the brake light switch goes intermittently defective, it often shows up as a tranny or transfer case problem.
Regarding bulb specs and wattage, the reason I know a little about this is that it matters. I melted my front head light yellow side marker "holes" as I installed W5W bulbs rather than the W3W called for. They all look the same, however 5 watts makes more heat than 3 watts, so guess what happened?
It took me quite awhile to figure out the problem as I purchased what the dealer thought was the correct side marker lights. They did fit, were a bit brighter and worked for a while, so what could go wrong!
Also I have heard of some owners forcing the single filament bulbs into the lower two tail light bulb holes - this for certain shorts out things and results in the tranny / transfer case code woes.
And yes, your thermostat is stuck open, which means you'll be running rich and potentially damaging your catalytic converters.
Last edited by djkronik57; 01-24-2017 at 02:01 PM.
#29
01-26-2017, 10:19 PM
#30
02-06-2017, 10:46 AM
Update: I replaced the break light switch and the brake light that was out came back on. All lights functioned properly. Drove several hundred miles over the next 48 hours and all issues were resolved.
This morning however the car was reluctant to upshift then dash lights came back on and faults reappeared.
This morning however the car was reluctant to upshift then dash lights came back on and faults reappeared.
