LR4 Brakes and rotors
#1
LR4 Brakes and rotors
I have a 2011 LR4 and the brake light came on. I have 20,000 miles on it. I pulled the tires and took a look and I have at least 10,000 left on the front pads in my opinion. I took it to landrover and they told me..... I need new brakes and Rotors all for a low price of $1500. I do my own work on my vehicles and wanted to know am I missing something? I can get some high end aftermarket brakes and rotors for $500.
Please shed some wisdom on me. The brakes look like a standard set up and the pads look standard as well. I read that the Brakes are a softer compound and help it stop better? That is really all I can find on this subject.
Thanks for the help
Please shed some wisdom on me. The brakes look like a standard set up and the pads look standard as well. I read that the Brakes are a softer compound and help it stop better? That is really all I can find on this subject.
Thanks for the help
#2
#3
You are not missing anything. The OEM wear sensors tend to trip early. This allows the average owner to get their vehicle serviced before there is a risk to the rotors.
Typically I replace rotors every 2nd pad change. Next change I will be going with aftermarket rotors and some type of ceramic pads to cut down on the dust. The OEM pads like most euro pads are soft and make a bloody mess. I am getting sick and tired of dealing with excessive brake dust on the 20" split 10 spoke wheels.
Typically I replace rotors every 2nd pad change. Next change I will be going with aftermarket rotors and some type of ceramic pads to cut down on the dust. The OEM pads like most euro pads are soft and make a bloody mess. I am getting sick and tired of dealing with excessive brake dust on the 20" split 10 spoke wheels.
#4
You are not missing anything. The OEM wear sensors tend to trip early. This allows the average owner to get their vehicle serviced before there is a risk to the rotors.
Typically I replace rotors every 2nd pad change. Next change I will be going with aftermarket rotors and some type of ceramic pads to cut down on the dust. The OEM pads like most euro pads are soft and make a bloody mess. I am getting sick and tired of dealing with excessive brake dust on the 20" split 10 spoke wheels.
Typically I replace rotors every 2nd pad change. Next change I will be going with aftermarket rotors and some type of ceramic pads to cut down on the dust. The OEM pads like most euro pads are soft and make a bloody mess. I am getting sick and tired of dealing with excessive brake dust on the 20" split 10 spoke wheels.
Perfect thank you!!
#5
#6
When changing pads, it is always a good rule of thumb to either turn the rotors or buy new ones. When bedding in the pads (which dealers or most Indy shops do not do), the pads and rotors "exchange" material which helps them work better as an assembly.
Instructions for bedding in your brakes
Instructions for bedding in your brakes
#7
When changing pads, it is always a good rule of thumb to either turn the rotors or buy new ones. When bedding in the pads (which dealers or most Indy shops do not do), the pads and rotors "exchange" material which helps them work better as an assembly.
Instructions for bedding in your brakes
Instructions for bedding in your brakes
I did the multiple stops at different speeds to bed the brake pads into the new rotors. However checking the thickness of the oem disks was pretty interesting. There is such a tight tollerqnce of what is good and bad turning these rotors would put them up against the too thin specs. Most rotors are like this. Cheap metal and more venting to use less metal. The new rotors I put on compared to oem shouldast the rest of the life of the lr4
#10