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I have a 2004 Disco II with 85k miles on it. My Disco still has the original Land Rover drive shafts and I was wondering if it is really necessary for me to change them to Tom Woods Drive shafts. I took it to my trusted mechanic and he said that they were in good condition. I have had many people on this forum tell me to change them. I don't do any off roading only city driving. I just wanted to know if i should change them even though they are in good condition. If so can someone tell me why and what the reasoning is behind it so I have a better understanding ? I don't mind changing it if I have to but I just wanted to know the reasoning behind it.
you don't have to buy a tom woods if you don't want to. you can have the drive shaft rebuilt with greasable u joints and a new centering ball kit. a drive line shop can fit the parts. The stock U joints will look fine to any mechanic. But they dry up and break apart, the drive shaft then goes bucknutter and can rip a whole in the transmission and tear out the transfer case while your driving. turning a $200 problem into a $5,000 problem.
__________________ -Ed
99 DII, TF +2" HD & steering damper, TreadWright 265/75/16, ARB front, BritPart rear, Warn m8000 with synth, Columbia Overland gate panel & dual battery tray, Safari snorkel, RoverBones diff guards, RockWare sliders, DieHard Plat Deep Cycle, Chalkboard Headliner, CB, Wilderness Rack, 6 hella 700 ff's w 100w bulbs, 2 hella work lights
93 RRC TF track rod, tie rod & steering damper, TRW rims
You should make plans to have it replaced/rebuilt, this week. When it fails, and they all do, it will then cost you a tranny, $4000 plus, I don't care what your mechanic says. I would imagine your guy isn't familiar with this problem with all D2 drive shafts.
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Mike
Retired service manager. Member of the Solihull Society, NCLR club, SCLR and Santa Barbara 4 Wheelers.
99 D2, 3" lift, CDL with a Detroit and T.T. lockers, H.D. axles, 4:11 gears, Custom front and rear bumpers, sliders, Warn winch, and 5 HID's.
Need Parts? paulgrant@mac.com, or 203-770-1699 willtillery@roverguy.com, or 434-251-9331
Paul PTSchram 260-804-0458
PM Marty(Drillbit)[url]http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...o=newpm&u=5940
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For highway use and most peoples' off-roading, stock propshafts are fine.
Only rebuild with greaseable u-joints if you're going to lube them (or have them lubed) at minimum every 5,000 miles. If you're not going to do that, use sealed u-joints, they will last longer. Then plan on rebuilding your front again in 50-60k miles.
If you go the greaseable route and don't do it yourself, be sure to tell the person who does your lube that all the u-joints have grease fittings. From the factory they don't and the person may skip some thinking there are no grease fittings.
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Tom Rowe
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
You should make plans to have it replaced/rebuilt, this week. When it fails, and they all do, it will then cost you a tranny, $4000 plus, I don't care what your mechanic says. I would imagine your guy isn't familiar with this problem with all D2 drive shafts.
X 4.2 Million but not 4.3
Get it rebuilt asap
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For expedition tested Rover gear Check out WWW.Lucky8LLc.com 716-898-8153
ordered them from Tom Woods today they should be in by next Monday until then my car is not going anywhere parking it in the garage not moving until they are changed
Just so you are clear, TW and GBR propshafts aren't a magic bullet.
The only advantage they offer is that they are stronger and so less likely to break if you do hard core off-roading. That, and they can be made longer if you have a lift that's too tall for stock.
Just like the stock Land Rover propshafts, they must be lubed, and lubed properly, at the correct service interval (5,000 miles for normal use) or they will fail in just as bad a way as the stock ones.
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Tom Rowe
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
Drive Shaft Question ?
