it may be wise to keep it more compact, as the D2 doesn't cool too well, as-is. some people use the slightly larger trans cooler instead of the smaller engine cooler, if you want to do that. I want to keep my radiator as open and free-flowing as possible on this thing

 

My thoughts were something aftermarket. Keep it off of the radiator. No sense pre heating the air that cools the radiator.

 

that's whats up. I came across those in my searches and realized way too expensive for what I need to do, but more power to you. One day not too long ago, I opened the filler cap to add some oil and out came a steady trail of steam. and that's with the engine running at 200 degrees for 30 minutes. I haven't seen oil vapor, steam, whatever its called, in a long time if ever. No wonder I have to change it out every 3K miles.

 

Looking at 150.00/200.00 bones for what I need. We shall see

 

That's pretty doable. I didn't know that you could get a kit for that much. The few that I came across were over $3-400!

 

That's not a kit. It's pieced together through Summit Racing

 

Have you made any moves on the D2 yet? I finally got the oil cooler completely installed today. I may tackle the cooling system conversion next while I'm on a roll. i didn't think that passenger side cooler pipe would ever go on.

 

Finished the t Stat Modification today. Seems to be a very good mod so far. My temp gauge is showing much more stable Temps. Went out and did a little agro dirt road driving and the Temps stayed in the upper 180 to lower 190 range.
The only time it hit in the 200 range was idling in my shop while I was bleeding the system. It will get a better real world test when I drive the 45 minutes to Bend in the morning.
Also finished the installation of the rock sliders. That was more difficult as the fit wasn't all it could've been.
Despite the mild headaches and extra time, they turned out really cool.
I can post pic's of those later.

 

Very clean install, looks great. The only thing that I may do is switch the locations of where you have the Tstat housing and water temp sender adapter.

 

Was thinking the same thing. Get the t Stat as close to the motor as possible. The problem is the clearance between the alternator and the t stat housing. There's not much as it is with the smaller diameter bleed valve. That's due to the upper hose I used.
As is. My Temps on my Ultra Guage before mod bounced between 196.6 and 204 ish. With higher spikes
Driving today. Temps were between 185.6 and 190.6 with spikes to 196/197.
Outside temp mid day was 56 Fahrenheit. With zero warm up issues...... And the morning start up temperature was 37 Fahrenheit.
I'll take that all day.