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Always wanted to own one and now I do. There's lot's of information out there to scare you away but when you want something, you do it anyway.
I will read the stickies for the generally stupid questions that I am sure have been asked time and time again. In case I don't find the answers...here is what I have so far.
1: Now I own it...what first?
2: Brush guards? Where is the best place to shop?
3: Thinking about roof lighting...comparisons? Suggestions?
Welcome. You are now enslaved to a fine machine, for top performance your new master will demand continuous attention to details.
1. Download full set of free factory tech manuals, called the RAVE. Covers workshop manual, electrical, owners, body and interior, etc.
2. Go to the Discovery 1 section of the forum, to the technical section. There you will find lists of things to do for high miles new2me vehicles, plus many common repair issues and enhanced work arounds.
3. Crawl under your truck with a flashlight and look at everything, especially coolant leaks and oil leaks. If you come out clean, go back under there, you missed something.
4. Check coolant and oil levels early in the day before cranking, and every day for a week, then drop back to once a week (like Saturday).
5. Before you spend big dollars on parts, check the forum for substitutes, dismantlers, and known good online parts sources.
6. Your new master has a temperature guage. It is not calibrated in a linear fashion. It is not a very accurate test instrument. And it is not like ones from Detroit. Most users enjoy a normal temp from the 7:30 to 9:00 position of the pointer. Above 9:00 things are getting too hot inside the motor. At the top end of the guage you are in "shake and bake" land, where after baking the engine you shake out the contents of your wallet.
7. A very good oil to run is Rotella 15W40 conventional. It is a high detergent diesel rated oil that will really clean the engine. Do 1000 mile oil changes the first two or 3 times, then go to 5000. Forget anything that may be in an owner's manual about 7500 miles between changes.
8. Your new ride has no oil pressure guage. The idiot light comes on at 7 PSI or so. If it flashes after initial startup, stop and investigate. At some point you will want to do a mechanical oil pressure test both cold and warm engine.
9. You may not own all the tools you'll need. Some specialized things, like cooling system pressure tester, can be loaned by the auto parts stores. Go ahead and clean all the battery cables, main ground end, and the two large cables inside the under hood fuse box. If your tach is ever not working, you have lost the charge from the alternator 90% of the time.
10. For every hour of fun, you will have to invest time in routine care. Things like swivel oil / grease, etc. If your drive shaft universals don't have zerk fittings, rebuild with new universals. Buy a set of ramps to make under access easier.
11. Post on the appropriate section of the forum often, until you ask a question who knows how much time you'll waste. You will find that you will get answers, some good, some expert, and some... well, we do have a number of highly opinionated unique self reliant individuals here. And all over the world.
12. Put your vehicle type and miles in yur signature, it helps responses be more on target.
Welcome. You are now enslaved to a fine machine, for top performance your new master will demand continuous attention to details.
1. Download full set of free factory tech manuals, called the RAVE. Covers workshop manual, electrical, owners, body and interior, etc.
2. Go to the Discovery 1 section of the forum, to the technical section. There you will find lists of things to do for high miles new2me vehicles, plus many common repair issues and enhanced work arounds.
3. Crawl under your truck with a flashlight and look at everything, especially coolant leaks and oil leaks. If you come out clean, go back under there, you missed something.
4. Check coolant and oil levels early in the day before cranking, and every day for a week, then drop back to once a week (like Saturday).
5. Before you spend big dollars on parts, check the forum for substitutes, dismantlers, and known good online parts sources.
6. Your new master has a temperature guage. It is not calibrated in a linear fashion. It is not a very accurate test instrument. And it is not like ones from Detroit. Most users enjoy a normal temp from the 7:30 to 9:00 position of the pointer. Above 9:00 things are getting too hot inside the motor. At the top end of the guage you are in "shake and bake" land, where after baking the engine you shake out the contents of your wallet.
7. A very good oil to run is Rotella 15W40 conventional. It is a high detergent diesel rated oil that will really clean the engine. Do 1000 mile oil changes the first two or 3 times, then go to 5000. Forget anything that may be in an owner's manual about 7500 miles between changes.
8. Your new ride has no oil pressure guage. The idiot light comes on at 7 PSI or so. If it flashes after initial startup, stop and investigate. At some point you will want to do a mechanical oil pressure test both cold and warm engine.
9. You may not own all the tools you'll need. Some specialized things, like cooling system pressure tester, can be loaned by the auto parts stores. Go ahead and clean all the battery cables, main ground end, and the two large cables inside the under hood fuse box. If your tach is ever not working, you have lost the charge from the alternator 90% of the time.
10. For every hour of fun, you will have to invest time in routine care. Things like swivel oil / grease, etc. If your drive shaft universals don't have zerk fittings, rebuild with new universals. Buy a set of ramps to make under access easier.
11. Post on the appropriate section of the forum often, until you ask a question who knows how much time you'll waste. You will find that you will get answers, some good, some expert, and some... well, we do have a number of highly opinionated unique self reliant individuals here. And all over the world.
12. Put your vehicle type and miles in yur signature, it helps responses be more on target.
1: Downloaded even before I joined site.
2: It's bookmarked.
3: Knocking on wood, no leaks. Seriously. I had to crawl under to unplug the A/C drains. There was a coolant overflow leak immediately after I had it flush and filled, but it went away after a couple of drives. (yes, there's still fluid in it.)
4: Checked before every crank. Seems good.
5: Will do.
6: Watching it like a hawk. Are there any recommended aftermarket gauges?
7: Oil was changed yesterday. I am putting high mileage in it for the first two or three then switching to something else.
8: I will watch out for it.
9: I have a lack of tools and lack of space to work on it at the moment. I will be using a mechanic for now.
10: Ok
11: Ok
12: Done
There have been write ups on adding OIL PSI guage, some prefer mechanical vs electrical. Mechanical would require a nylon hose from under hood to interior, and it will have 40 - 50 PSI of oil in it, quite messy if it comes apart. The guage would have to be connected at the port that drives the oil PSI switch, lower right side near filter, not much space. I have wondered if you could also get the same reading tapping the oil cooler line to the radiator.
If I had the inclination, I would like an oil gauge, volt meter, and a different water temp guage.
Now there is a business opportunity - we have got plenty of closed down auto dealerships in the last few years. The people that repo'd the dealerships should open them up, you sign a waiver (like the junk yards), and rent bay space for guys (and gals) to work on their cars. People already pay money to roll bowling balls, do laundry, play video games, and watch kids party at other places. Guys with tools and no garage would keep the place humming two shifts a day. And sell parts in the show room. Kinda like a self serve Pep Boyz. Call it the Rusty Wrench Ranch; "repair and despair under one roof"
New Owner of a 1999 Discovery I
