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Hello - Just purchased my first Land Rover. I've been a Toyota guy, but thought I'd check out a Land Rover. I've just obtained a 1999 D2 with 144k miles, although the last 22k is on a new 4.0 from LR, but 7 years old. I bought the truck from the original owner who had just purchased a new FJ that I was salivating over. First impressions are that I like this truck! Feels solid, but at the same time I feel cautious like something might go wrong. Mainly just unfamiliar territory. I love the space and it feels luxurious for a truck. The ACE is impressive! I had it loaded down helping my gf move with mattress and more tied on top cruising HWY 17 with little body roll! The 12.5 mpg is not impressive. In my first week of ownership the rear gate wouldn't open. Spent a good 30 minutes working it and it finally popped open. The lock would move up and down, but the handle would not release the gate. Got the rear panel off and couldn't help but break some of those brittle clips. Removed the actuator and waiting on my first part with an introduction to the high cost of these rover parts! Mine is a 5 seater but equipped with the rear air suspension. If I leave the truck for 2 days; it's sitting flat on it's butt and ugly to look at! This is a 2nd vehicle for me and used for camping, dirt roads, hauling stuff, and possibly some baja or utah trips and maybe a wheeling trip once a year. My plans are the high mileage service. I know these trucks handle excellent as they are, but I'd like to put a 2inch lift on for looks and because the springs and shocks need replacing. Have read endless threads on OME and Terrafirma and RTM. Still not sure what I will go with, but perhaps Terrafirma. I also think I will convert the rear to coils vs the spacers. I have an engineering degree and I'm also a sculptor and furniture designer, so I'm mechanically inclined, but have not actively worked on cars/trucks. I did build up a 1985 Toyota with lift, gears, and tires. That truck was easy to work on, and that 22RE seemed like it would run forever. Okay, new Disco owner from Santa Cruz saying hello!
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1999 D2, 144k with 22k on new 4.0, ACE, 2nd Owner
1. Download the RAVE tech manual set, its free, link below.
2. Keep eyeball on temp gauge, should not go above 9:00 without concern. Serious concern.
3. Check fluids weekly (daily at first). These are world class leakers. One guy was 4 quarts low. Oil warning light finally comes on at 7 PSI, so it will let you drive around at 9 psi. An aftermarket oil gauge like Glowshift is a good idea. "x"w40 weight oil. Basic dino oil is Shell 15W40 Rotella, you will find passionate defense of a number of others. Change oil early and often, 5000 miles, not 1 a year like manual say.
4. Rear door lock can be problem with child lock bypass.
5. Look at drive shafts. If no zerks, rebuild with new U joints, write up is in the Discovery 1 tech section of the forum (covers both models). The front prop shaft makes chirps - right before it snaps and impales the tranny case.
6. Make sure battery is good, and all terminal in great shape on battery and inside the fuse box under the hood. Alarm detects weak battery or circuit problem as an assault on the vehicle, and goes into immobilization mode (can't crank).
7. Thermostat can be a problem, and the housing for it has four bypass holes that can get clogged with trash.
A grease fitting. If the front drive shaft only has a fitting on the front U-joint by the axle, and no fittings on the two joints nearest the transfer case, then it needs to be rebuilt with three grease-able joints. This is a very common preventative maintenance practise.
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2000 Disco II 113,000 miles
Maintenance: 60K service with BG fluids, front drive shaft rebuild, Denso iridium plugs, front O2 sensors, Akebono ceramics front and rear with new rotors, belt tensioner and idlers, brake fluid and coolant flushed every two years- regardless of miles
Upgrades: OEM brushguard and driving lights, 04 CDL, extended rear axle breather, DI wiper arms, heated seat kit, grey painted chalkboard headliner
New Owner in Santa Cruz
