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Replacing the rear end on a 91 Range Rover

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Old 11-20-2010, 02:52 PM
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Default Replacing the rear end on a 91 Range Rover

I'm looking at getting a Rover for mainly mountain use but I want to be able to drive on the freeway to get to distant mountain streams.
I found a 91 that sounds like it has been fairly will maintained but the owner said the rear end needs to be replaced. He said he found a new/used rear end for $150 but would I just be asking for trouble getting something like this? How hard would it be to replace the rear end?
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Old 11-22-2010, 06:56 AM
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How is the rest of the vehicle?

Would he be amicable to having the rear end installed as part of the deal?

Just swapping out the gears in the pumpkin isn't all that hard although you do need to know what you are doing. If it is the entire axle its a little more work but nothing a weekend in the garage couldn't do.

What is the condition of this "new/used" rear end? Any idea of the mileage?

Where are you located?
 
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:23 AM
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Default 91 Rover

The present owner said they put $800 worth of maintenance into the vehicle (I don't know what this was for) then the rear end went out so he parked it. It has been sitting for 2 years. It has approx 180K miles on it and seems to be in ok shape. I would be using it for 80% off road and the occasional road trip. He's wanting $1K for the Rover. And I don't know much of anything about the rear end, and I'm in Utah.
Thought?
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:30 AM
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Hmm. See if you can get some paperwork on what this "maintenance" was. I'd also be curious about the the rear end failure diagnosis. The rear end is usually pretty stout, I'd be more concerned with a viscous coupling failure than a rear end. Perhaps see if he will let you pull the diff cover off and inspect, or ask if he has paperwork from a shop showing the diagnosis of rear end failure.

If indeed it is a rear end, I would take it to a shop and have a new or reconditioned gearset installed. This can be a delicate job requiring setting exact tolerances.

With that many miles, you also want to talk a look at the head gaskets. Will it turn over and idle?
 
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:02 AM
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Default Rear end issue

I talked to the seller again yesterday, the car is his wifes (they just married) it will start and run if it's in 4 wheel drive, he said his understanding is some part broke, he doesn't know what or where. I'll work on getting more details.
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Old 11-24-2010, 10:04 AM
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Wait a minute here....a 1991 Rover Classic should be full time 4wd...at least US Spec anyway.

So, interpreting what he means by "run if its in 4wd" is an unknown. Does "run" mean it drives? Perhaps he means if it is in 4 Low it will run/drive, but not in 4 Hi.....

So yeah, keep at it. It very well might be something minor and not a rear end from the sounds of it.

This site has lots of info on this model (and others), you might want to review. Here is the specs page, but go to the home page too and you'll find a ton of useful stuff: http://www.rangerovers.net/rrspecs.htm#classic
 
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Old 12-14-2010, 06:44 PM
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Default May be purchasing a 91 Rover

I've been busy with other things but am now back at the Rover search. I called the owner of the 91 and he still has it. The story with the rear end is it started making a funny noise, hes not sure what the problem is but to avoid further damage they unhooked the driveline and parked the rover. I'm hoping to be looking at it in the next few days. How can I tell whats broken? is there a part that is a weak link that is likley the problem?
Thanks to all,
 
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Old 12-15-2010, 10:37 AM
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Hard to tell without hearing the noise. Something to check however are the U-joints. If they were not greased or maintained then the can cause some noises. You can check them visually, and typically if the shafts are installed you can wiggle them to look for play. If the shaft is out then you'll have to kind of play with the U joints to see if they have excess play.
 
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Old 12-16-2010, 08:07 AM
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Default It might be the U joints

Thanks Chris X.
I think you might have it. I read another post in here about replacing the u joints, in the post they described what it sounded like etc, I'm wondering if thats the issue here, bad u joints. The rear driveline has been disconnected so if I drive it (the front wheels pulling) if there is no bad sounds I can probably assume that it is the u joints, correct? If there is still bad noises, then the problem is probably in the pumpkin or other area, correct? I'm hoping to look at this in the next few days so any advice to diagnose the problem would be so appreciated.
Thanks
 

Last edited by Draayer; 12-16-2010 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 12-16-2010, 12:03 PM
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Well yes and no. By driving it with only the front wheels you are not putting any stress on the rear diff, so it might be quiet like that but when power is applied it might be noisy.

If it is making noises from the back while in FWD only then yeah, you probably have a gear issue in the diff itself.

You could jack up one of the back wheels and see if you can spin the wheel by hand very much, listen for unusual noises from the diff. Could also remove the fill plug on the rear diff and see if there is any fluid in it, and the condition of the fluid. I think a 3/8" socket driver head fits in the diff fill plug IIRC, might be 1/2".....

Note that I don't really condone driving the car much with power only going to one set of wheels - not what it was designed for, the diffs are sized to work together, so putting all of the power to just one is not a great idea IMHO. If you are driving it in FWD, at least take it kinda easy on the power until you can get the rear hooked up.

I really do hope it's just U-joints, and they are a relatively common problem on these trucks so the odds are with you. Let us know how your visit goes!
 


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