ABS MODULATOR FIX (NO more SVS fault)
#1
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ABS MODULATOR FIX (NO more SVS fault)
Moderator edit: updated link: http://landroverclubvi.weebly.com/abs-mod.html
edit: most of the original info is gone, but a couple of guys put up some decent info.
figured it would be helpful to put the good stuff together and not have to look through the dead links. the below link will get you there and if anyone has any additional info, please share....,dusty
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...abs-fix-71905/
Well everyone, here is MY ABS Modulator fix write up.
landroverclubvi.com
Let me know what you all think....
figured it would be helpful to put the good stuff together and not have to look through the dead links. the below link will get you there and if anyone has any additional info, please share....,dusty
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...abs-fix-71905/
Well everyone, here is MY ABS Modulator fix write up.
landroverclubvi.com
Let me know what you all think....
Last edited by jafir; 09-25-2015 at 11:50 PM.
The following 5 users liked this post by jycsalas:
Charlie_V (08-22-2015),
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Tristan Stumpf (03-15-2017)
#2
#5
#6
Your discovery of an easy fix for this otherwise expensive dealership repair has earned you a spot in the Disco Owners Home Mechanics Hall of Fame! Watch your back because Tata Motors may send a Hindu hit man after you!
I have one question though. If you choose method B, is it even necessary to remove the modulator assembly at all? I mean if you can unsecure the ABS ui as you show and raise it enough to remove the 3 allen head screws for the SVS and wiggle out the plug it seems like you would not even have to remove the modulator assembly.
I have one question though. If you choose method B, is it even necessary to remove the modulator assembly at all? I mean if you can unsecure the ABS ui as you show and raise it enough to remove the 3 allen head screws for the SVS and wiggle out the plug it seems like you would not even have to remove the modulator assembly.
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Wheelspin (12-30-2020)
#7
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Your discovery of an easy fix for this otherwise expensive dealership repair has earned you a spot in the Disco Owners Home Mechanics Hall of Fame! Watch your back because Tata Motors may send a Hindu hit man after you!
I have one question though. If you choose method B, is it even necessary to remove the modulator assembly at all? I mean if you can unsecure the ABS ui as you show and raise it enough to remove the 3 allen head screws for the SVS and wiggle out the plug it seems like you would not even have to remove the modulator assembly.
I have one question though. If you choose method B, is it even necessary to remove the modulator assembly at all? I mean if you can unsecure the ABS ui as you show and raise it enough to remove the 3 allen head screws for the SVS and wiggle out the plug it seems like you would not even have to remove the modulator assembly.
No one stands a chance between me and my fixes...
Now to answer your question...Yes you can remove the three rubber mounts and remove the abs brake lines from the bulk head to position the ABS unit high enough to remove the 3 hex screws allowing you to remove the SVS only.
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Questions that should have been asked under this thread
https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=27611
https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=27611
#9
Thanks Josh. As you suggested I will continue my questions here.
I don't have any testing tool at all. The 3 amigos was there for like 3 months, not an intermittent one. A friend of mine used his OBDII to test my truck and gave him something "Shuttle Valve Failure" blah blah. I tried the troubleshooting manual/pdf in your website and no luck. That's why I want to give a try to the bypass option B. I went thru all the steps, and the connection testing at Step 40 is also fine. But when I re-installed everything, turned the key, too bad the lights were still there.
The only difference between my work and yours is, I think, I ground the harness to the hole I indicated in the pic rather than the bolt holding the pipe like you. Is that possible it is the reason?
I don't have any testing tool at all. The 3 amigos was there for like 3 months, not an intermittent one. A friend of mine used his OBDII to test my truck and gave him something "Shuttle Valve Failure" blah blah. I tried the troubleshooting manual/pdf in your website and no luck. That's why I want to give a try to the bypass option B. I went thru all the steps, and the connection testing at Step 40 is also fine. But when I re-installed everything, turned the key, too bad the lights were still there.
The only difference between my work and yours is, I think, I ground the harness to the hole I indicated in the pic rather than the bolt holding the pipe like you. Is that possible it is the reason?
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Saleem B (05-13-2016)
#10
Hi Josh,
I completed my repair, using your last method that only involves removing the switch. I did find it extremely hard to turn those 3 small Allen screws, they must be installed with Loctite!
I found I had to lift the ABS unit higher to get my old stubby fingers underneath so I wedged a piece of a 2 x 4 under it. I also found those screws so hard to turn with a short Allen wrench that I ended up making up a small Allen wrench socket by sawing off a bit of the wrench and sticking it into a 4mm socket (I used a bit of making tape to make it fit snugly). Before reassembling I took the 3 screws over to my bench top grinder which is also fitted with a fine wire brush and cleaned the threads of any Loctite residue which made screwing them in easier.
I also decided to reinsert the plastic connector plug that I had cut the wires from before replacing the switch assembly as I saw it had an o-ring. I figured it might be good to keep the inside of the ABS unit free from any moisture buildup.
No lights on yet so I will just have to drive it for a while and wait and see if this fixed it!
I completed my repair, using your last method that only involves removing the switch. I did find it extremely hard to turn those 3 small Allen screws, they must be installed with Loctite!
I found I had to lift the ABS unit higher to get my old stubby fingers underneath so I wedged a piece of a 2 x 4 under it. I also found those screws so hard to turn with a short Allen wrench that I ended up making up a small Allen wrench socket by sawing off a bit of the wrench and sticking it into a 4mm socket (I used a bit of making tape to make it fit snugly). Before reassembling I took the 3 screws over to my bench top grinder which is also fitted with a fine wire brush and cleaned the threads of any Loctite residue which made screwing them in easier.
I also decided to reinsert the plastic connector plug that I had cut the wires from before replacing the switch assembly as I saw it had an o-ring. I figured it might be good to keep the inside of the ABS unit free from any moisture buildup.
No lights on yet so I will just have to drive it for a while and wait and see if this fixed it!
The following users liked this post:
Saleem B (05-13-2016)