Oil and filter change video
#91
I just performed an oil change with the Mityvac on my '23 P300. This was the first oil service for the truck. It has 8800 miles.
It's really straight forward but a couple of observations:
The P300 requires 7L for an oil service (less than the P400) per the manual. I could only extract 6+Ls. (I'm not sure if that's all that was in it or I didn't position the tube correctly. - Next time will help me determine)
The dip stick is pretty hard to read with fresh oil.
It took 6.5L to fill so it seems like I'm leaving something behind.
I'll check again once I run it for a bit.
The most difficult part of the entire thing in getting dipstick in!!
Appreciate all the guidance from everyone on this thread.
It's really straight forward but a couple of observations:
The P300 requires 7L for an oil service (less than the P400) per the manual. I could only extract 6+Ls. (I'm not sure if that's all that was in it or I didn't position the tube correctly. - Next time will help me determine)
The dip stick is pretty hard to read with fresh oil.
It took 6.5L to fill so it seems like I'm leaving something behind.
I'll check again once I run it for a bit.
The most difficult part of the entire thing in getting dipstick in!!
Appreciate all the guidance from everyone on this thread.
#93
#94
Guys, I have been following along and noticed that there is a newer Liqui Moly LR-specific oil available on Amazon now. It meets the newer JLR spec, not the previous one.
Here:
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-Sp...Y2hfYXRm&psc=1
A little more expensive, of course!
Here:
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-Sp...Y2hfYXRm&psc=1
A little more expensive, of course!
#95
I'm pretty sure that STJLR.03.5006 is the newer spec. (Even though STJLR.51.5122 would seem like the newer spec since 5006 comes before 5122 in numerical sequence)
And be careful when buying oil from Amazon. It was discussed on this forum a few years ago when someone bought Liqui Moly on Amazon and there were typos on the jug label. Apparently Amazon does not check their sellers. I recently bought a Grohe faucet cartridge on Amazon that was certainly a cheap knock-off version and failed quickly. Printed box it came in sure looked like a legitimate blue Grohe box with the usual white Grohe logo.
Here are 2 legitimate Liqui Moly sellers:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/0w-...oly-lm22046#qa
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-liqui_mo...ers/22046~liq/
And be careful when buying oil from Amazon. It was discussed on this forum a few years ago when someone bought Liqui Moly on Amazon and there were typos on the jug label. Apparently Amazon does not check their sellers. I recently bought a Grohe faucet cartridge on Amazon that was certainly a cheap knock-off version and failed quickly. Printed box it came in sure looked like a legitimate blue Grohe box with the usual white Grohe logo.
Here are 2 legitimate Liqui Moly sellers:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/0w-...oly-lm22046#qa
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-liqui_mo...ers/22046~liq/
Last edited by PaulLR; 07-17-2023 at 01:49 PM.
The following users liked this post:
bowhun2r (09-26-2023)
#96
I'm pretty sure that STJLR.03.5006 is the newer spec. (Even though STJLR.51.5122 would seem like the newer spec since 5006 comes after 5122 in numerical sequence)
And be careful when buying oil from Amazon. It was discussed on this forum a few years ago when someone bought Liqui Moly on Amazon and there were typos on the jug label. Apparently Amazon does not check their sellers. I recently bought a Grohe faucet cartridge on Amazon that was certainly a cheap knock-off version and failed quickly. Printed box it came in sure looked like a legitimate blue Grohe box with the usual white Grohe logo.
Here are 2 legitimate Liqui Moly sellers:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/0w-...oly-lm22046#qa
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-liqui_mo...ers/22046~liq/
And be careful when buying oil from Amazon. It was discussed on this forum a few years ago when someone bought Liqui Moly on Amazon and there were typos on the jug label. Apparently Amazon does not check their sellers. I recently bought a Grohe faucet cartridge on Amazon that was certainly a cheap knock-off version and failed quickly. Printed box it came in sure looked like a legitimate blue Grohe box with the usual white Grohe logo.
Here are 2 legitimate Liqui Moly sellers:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/0w-...oly-lm22046#qa
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-liqui_mo...ers/22046~liq/
There have been problems with Amazon outside the US, but the Liqui Moly they sell here has been fine in my experience.
Last edited by Muppetry; 07-19-2023 at 07:32 AM. Reason: Typo.
#97
I haven't seen problems with engine oil off Amazon, but I will keep my eyes open! The two specs are confusing...
#98
2023 P400 - Advanced offroad pack (no factory winch)
I decided to go "old School" and pull the oil plug. "Used offroad height-locked" with jacks for safety. Couldn't get the image of being crushed/stuck under the Defender out of my head...! What took time was having to remove and reinstall the skid plates. Unless I missed something, this required removing the 2 aluminum skid plates, plus the aluminum nose plate to access fasteners (under the bumper), then removing the insulating/noise shield (again to access fasteners). In the process, I broke 2 of the 8 plastic fasteners holding on the shield ( door sill & wheel arch. $.45 each @ LR). Draining the oil, new filter, refill took 15 minutes...dealing with the skid plates took me an hour or more. Next time would be much faster. I would use a lift or place the Defender on ramps for better access...better yet, I recommend going the extraction method route. Maybe pulling the plates every 2nd or more interval to inspect/clean the underbelly. I did have some gravel & dried grass tucked into some areas. (Tip; the front bumper underplate is removed by lifting and pulling forward, it has two hooked arms; placing a piece of foil between the oil sump and cover prevents oil from running between the two. I used an old $7 plastic file bin to capture the oil; worked much better than my oil tray. Remember the order of removing the undercover/plates...reinstall fasteners in all locations before tightening down...there must have been 24 or more fasteners in all; tools; torx, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm & 1 1/16" for oil filter; plastic trim removal tool; air wrench if you are impatient)
I decided to go "old School" and pull the oil plug. "Used offroad height-locked" with jacks for safety. Couldn't get the image of being crushed/stuck under the Defender out of my head...! What took time was having to remove and reinstall the skid plates. Unless I missed something, this required removing the 2 aluminum skid plates, plus the aluminum nose plate to access fasteners (under the bumper), then removing the insulating/noise shield (again to access fasteners). In the process, I broke 2 of the 8 plastic fasteners holding on the shield ( door sill & wheel arch. $.45 each @ LR). Draining the oil, new filter, refill took 15 minutes...dealing with the skid plates took me an hour or more. Next time would be much faster. I would use a lift or place the Defender on ramps for better access...better yet, I recommend going the extraction method route. Maybe pulling the plates every 2nd or more interval to inspect/clean the underbelly. I did have some gravel & dried grass tucked into some areas. (Tip; the front bumper underplate is removed by lifting and pulling forward, it has two hooked arms; placing a piece of foil between the oil sump and cover prevents oil from running between the two. I used an old $7 plastic file bin to capture the oil; worked much better than my oil tray. Remember the order of removing the undercover/plates...reinstall fasteners in all locations before tightening down...there must have been 24 or more fasteners in all; tools; torx, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm & 1 1/16" for oil filter; plastic trim removal tool; air wrench if you are impatient)
Last edited by PMKColorado; 12-07-2023 at 07:05 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by PMKColorado:
2020Defender (12-07-2023),
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#99
2023 P400 - Advanced offroad pack (no factory winch)
I decided to go "old School" and pull the oil plug. "Used offroad height-locked" with jacks for safety. Couldn't get the image of being crushed/stuck under the Defender...! What took time was having to remove and reinstall the skid plates. Unless I missed something, this required removing the 2 aluminum skid plates, plus the aluminum nose plate to access fasteners (under the bumper), then removing the insulating/noise shield (again to access fasteners). In the process, I broke 2 of the 8 plastic fasteners holding on the shield ( door sill & wheel arch. $.45 each @ LR). Draining the oil, new filter, refill took 15 minutes...dealing with the skid plates took me an hour or more. Next time would be much faster. I would use a lift or place the Defender on ramps for better access...better yet, I recommend going the extraction method route. Maybe pulling the plates every 2nd or more interval to inspect/clean the underbelly. I did have some gravel & dried grass tucked into some areas. (Tip; the front bumper underplate is removed by lifting and pulling forward, it has two hooked arms; placing a piece of foil between the oil sump and cover prevents oil from running between the two. I used an old $7 plastic file bin to capture the oil; worked much better than my oil tray. Remember the order of removing the undercover/plates...reinstall fasteners in all locations before tightening down...there must have been 24 or more fasteners in all; tools; torx, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm & 1 1/16" for oil filter; plastic trim removal tool; air wrench if you are impatient)
I decided to go "old School" and pull the oil plug. "Used offroad height-locked" with jacks for safety. Couldn't get the image of being crushed/stuck under the Defender...! What took time was having to remove and reinstall the skid plates. Unless I missed something, this required removing the 2 aluminum skid plates, plus the aluminum nose plate to access fasteners (under the bumper), then removing the insulating/noise shield (again to access fasteners). In the process, I broke 2 of the 8 plastic fasteners holding on the shield ( door sill & wheel arch. $.45 each @ LR). Draining the oil, new filter, refill took 15 minutes...dealing with the skid plates took me an hour or more. Next time would be much faster. I would use a lift or place the Defender on ramps for better access...better yet, I recommend going the extraction method route. Maybe pulling the plates every 2nd or more interval to inspect/clean the underbelly. I did have some gravel & dried grass tucked into some areas. (Tip; the front bumper underplate is removed by lifting and pulling forward, it has two hooked arms; placing a piece of foil between the oil sump and cover prevents oil from running between the two. I used an old $7 plastic file bin to capture the oil; worked much better than my oil tray. Remember the order of removing the undercover/plates...reinstall fasteners in all locations before tightening down...there must have been 24 or more fasteners in all; tools; torx, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm & 1 1/16" for oil filter; plastic trim removal tool; air wrench if you are impatient)