JUKE179r - Working on Myrtle the Turtle
 

*UPDATED 04 JAN 2022*

WORK IN PROGRESS:
- driveshafts; grease ALL 6 zerks; use grease gun needle
- steering UJs; try using grease gun needle
- check manifold bolts (16 ft/lbs)
- check rocker cover bolts (6 ft/lbs)
- check spark plugs (15 ft/lbs)
- silencer to exhaust system; install w/ gaskets, 5 each M12x15 bolts, washer, lock washer and nuts (18ft/lbs) “Grind off old mount bolt studs and install/replace with M12 hardware. Use downpipe exhaust gasket and high temp exhaust sealant.”
- exhaust system air leaks; attach leaf blower into muffler & spray exhaust gasket areas with soapy water
- smoke test SAI & vacuum system and underside piping
- charcoal filter canister; install to underside
- install metal rollers in widow actuators
- door window actuators; left front & right rear inop
- install Extinct’s temp sensor mod
- install new water pump w/ gasket
- coolant system; flush & replace with silicone coolant hoses & clamps
- heater core; back & forward flush; check heater core connections in cabin; check for coolant leaks on passenger floorboard with sheet of paper or cardboard; install 5/8” ID hose for reverse flow of heater core
- A/C condenser coils in dash; spray clean through bottom drain holes.
- recheck/clean/grease all ABS connectors
- measure ABS sensor resistance especially RR; a good sensor should have 950 - 1100 Ohm
- ABS reluctor ring; take wheel off & clean inside area with WD-40 or compressed air; remove & wipe ABS sensor
- crank position sensor; wrap wires in aluminum foil or heat resistant wrap material
- front brakes; check pads for uneven wear; sand off glazing from gear oil leak; start on LF pads
- front hubs; install with o-rings (?); torque nut to spec 360 ft/lbs
- install new brake manifold; torque nuts to spec 18ft/lbs
- check with air the diff and gearbox breather air lines aren’t blocked; “Just push red outer collar down and pull tube out, then blow it out with compressed air.”
- lengthen breather vent tubes for wading; reroute ¼”/6mm tubes along A-pillar for both diffs and transmission; "I'm extending the front diff and tranny breather tubes (6mm OD) up under the RH A-pillar cowl. The rear diff breather tube will be extended up above the rear RH brake light assembly."
- lower windscreen scuttle cowl; install & seal off heater vent area
- windshield scuttle cowl plugs 2x; clean/sand/paint shiny black
- A-pillar trims 2x; install both with plastic gutters & Sikaflex sealant
- seal all gutter corners with Sikaflex sealant and/or Capt Tolley
- clean windows with 0000 steel wool and vinegar
- moon roof areas; coat seal with polymer or 303 protectorate; check/tighten 4 screws that hold in sunroof window
- rear license plate cover; use Sikaflex sealant at water leak crack area
- replace cracked tail door latch cover; replace rubber gasket; check for corrosion at lamp terminals
- rear propshaft; replace UJs; balance at hi & low speeds; length face to face = 34 5/8”
- extended and reroute A/C drain holes away from XYZ switch
- XYZ switch; unbolt, remove, drill out rivets, clean out, regrease tracks lightly with dielectric grease, seal, add heat resistant wrap to wires, clean connector / let air dry / add dielectric grease, reinstall and adjust…
“Check for oil/dirt in the connector plug on top of the gearbox/xyz switch.”; “Ignition switch to Position II, Select N, slightly loosen both 10mm nuts, slightly rotate xyz switch until light shows correctly on the selector and LED display. Slowly move shifter through PRND321 range to confirm correct gears appear in the displays and then fully tighten both 10mm nuts.”
- earth connection point at battery; drill out & add longer bolt
- Install Big 8 cable conversion:
1. 0AWG from battery + to alternator + (2x) through fuse box connected to 150A fuse link.
2. 0AWG from battery + to starter +
3. 0AWG from battery - to grounding midpoint
4. 0AWG from grounding midpoint to alternator mount
5. 0AWG from chassis to engine
6. 0AWG from grounding midpoint to chassis
7. 10AWG from firewall to engine (replace old braided ground strap)
8. 10AWG from firewall to coil pack mount
- wiring bundles; remove old wrappings, check for chafing, install insulated wrapping and conduit with wire ties
- resolder LEDs in climate control and right rear door inside levers
- earth points; remove earth connections & wire brush surface, reattach & check continuity between each ground point & battery – post
- radio wiring; check steering wheel controls with one wire grounded and the other live
- electrical connector sockets; clean with contact cleaner, ensure they are dry; add dielectric grease
- headlight connection; clean corrosion and regrease
- driver’s pre-tensioner; install 2.2(>2.5) Ohm resistor & fuse to combat SRS fault… Disconnect battery!!! Leave unplugged for an hour!!! "Unplug yellow two pin plug under driver’s seat and install resistor in parallel with orange and orange/red wires (Fery)” https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...23/#post563086
- tranny dip stick & fitting; mount to bell housing’s 3rd bolt hole above starter’s top 13mm bolt at O2 sensor mount bracket; attach new fill plug to tranny pan
- rear door hinges and striker; reposition to stop water leak
- clean out sunroof drain holes at LH a-pillar and door jamb from under truck
- fire extinguisher install
- install hawse and synth winch cable; get hawse mount galvanized bolts 38mm, washers and nuts
- bumpers, rock sliders, rims (5x) & ladder; remove, sand, corrosion treat, paint, & reinstall
- fender flares; sand and repaint
- install TD5 CDL mod; “With the CDL Disengaged you can turn the jacked up wheel with the gearbox in neutral. With the CDL ENGAGED and the gearbox in neutral you will NOT be able turn the jacked up wheel”
- wiper column switch sticking; clean internally & regrease

OPTIONAL:
- remove crossmember under front driveshaft
- power fold mirrors; install kit and swap with NAS mirrors
- aux fog light relay; remove light pack from engine bay; label power wires; replace with relay mod and latching switch
- kill switch install; location?
- pan hard rod; replace with beefier Terrafirma; clear coat
- swap rear turn signal locations; rewire lower turn signals for upper lights
- ABS sensor wiring; extend 4-6” all around

COMPLETED:
- right rear door; repair clicking noise when closing/opening
- redirect vacuum lines and O2 sensor wiring away from exhaust manifold
- emissions filter; cut foam into partitions for better ventilation
- replace both downstream & both upstream O2 sensors
- steering box; adjust steering play 1/16 turn
- power steering pump; install with new low pressure hose, new o-rings, flush with new fluid and bleed system
- ABS pump; recheck Option B shuttle valve wiring or recomplete it; use a 1/4" or 4mm drive hex socket to remove the 3 bottom screws; bend in female connectors for better contact; wire brush/sandpaper clean grounding point connection
- ABS sensor connector; bend female connectors inward with a scribe or jewelers screwdriver for better connection
- brake system; flush/power bleed with ABS pump and Nanocom; install bleed port covers
- rear brake lights; add resistor in parallel because of LED bulbs
- right rear window seal; glue down
- seal leak at front top center of windscreen
- scuttle cowl rubber drains; use Sikaflex sealant to reattach
- clean all wiper blades with white vinegar & rag/towel
- rear door handle cover; drill drain hole per tech bulletin
- rear number plate lights; remove and clean corrosion; insert LED lights
- tie rod pin and base; get cotter/split pins, measure diameters for 4 dust boot replacement; install… https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/p...s-four-gl1173/
- outside LH D-pillar loose; “Remove interior panel surrounding the rear quarter glass where 3 nuts holds the trim. Reattach trim and put a small amount of caulking around the bolt to seal it so rain doesn't get in. Don't overtighten the nuts as the trim is 20 years old and will warp if over tightened.” https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...37/#post735247
- replace windscreen jets; adjust windscreen jets spray pattern
- check rubber Giubo doughnut condition
- rear shocks; replace with TF179 shocks; 92ft/lbs. bolts & 103ft/lbs. lug nuts
- install rear TF springs and Gwynn Lewis D1 spring seat
- install canister vent solenoid
- rear door handle sticks; lube with penetrating oil
- aluminum SAI tubing; replace with reinforced ¾” nylon tubing and “T” fitting
- install Fram PCV valve into IM
- install SAAB vacuum connector into IM
- reinstall oil catch container and remove PCV valve; check vacuum pressure
- V8 engine mounts; replace with 300TDi engine mounts w/ 18mm nuts (torque 63ftlbs)
- transmission sump; run engine, run through gears, check ATF level
- battery hold down post; cut down and rethread
- add mil-spec battery connectors
- replace stock 120A alternator with 150A (RR P38) alternator
- clean EFI ground strap at firewall on back of engine
- install DRL resistor and program BCU w/ Nanocom
- headlights; attach plastic mounts 3x
- install front dash camera and mount
- install Taylor 10mm spark plug wires; remove STI wires, build new HT leads to length;
- spark plugs; check all 8 for .040” gap and clean off (18ft lbs)
- add black spark plug heat covers; blow out with air first
- coil pack mount; Install 4 each M6 X 30mm studs and M6 nut on rear of engine and intake manifold
- install new coil packs; drill out bottom mount holes for studs
- check fuses under driver’s seat and recline switch
- ignition key tumbler; spray with air and lube with silicone grease
- Clean out debris from heater fan basket
- Check accelerator pedal linkage for play and at full throttle
- glue dimmer switch back onto dash
- SAI system; check operability of pump & solenoid at relay, clean filter; spray WD-40 into intake
- clean MAF sensor, IAC valve, throttle body, & PCV
- gas tank fill tube; check vent lines
- door window frames; bend to stop/tighten to stop draft
- driver door pin; install CARRS4X4 pin and roll pin
- replace access engine plug on right underside of engine #ERR7229
- check for fluid at tranny circular plate; remove the 3 bolts on the bottom of the bellhousing anything in there will drain out or clean out with warm water and soap
- install new battery hold down bracket
- install new rear tire cover
- install D2 cup holders
- replace old SLABS unit with newer #SRD500070
- EVAP filter; replace with air filter, tape off and add cushion for spacing
- replace loose engine pulleys
- 75 lbs. gas prop; add to bonnet, take pics of process
- install horn spring; grind down tabs in horn holder
- install 130db horn; check horn ground wiring
- install Disco 3 gear knob
- windscreen; fill cracks on passenger side
- check for engine air leaks; spray throttle body cleaner around hoses and IM on cold engine

What's this?
"oil catch can install"

This should be interesting

Why not swap out the rear corner panel and replace it with an earlier D1 item and you can have 4 on the back out of legit clusters and freak out so called D2 oficianados.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...9bc8d3f61a.jpg
200Tdi getting 300Tdi rear bumper and extra tail lights

I haven’t done much on Myrtle lately since working on my wife’s BMW X5. Much time spent on her 35d diesel removing the engine swirl flaps and blanking them off, thoroughly cleaning the intake manifold and EGR valve, removing the Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) active tank to clean out the crystallization of DEF fluid and Seafoaming the diesel fuel system. Next up... blanking off the EGR valve and remove & cleaning the particulate filter. Fun fun fun...
Meanwhile, Myrtle is still being driven but has a stockpile of parts and maintenance for me to tackle when I get a break from the BMW.

Yesterday when I was waiting for my wife at her work, I was messing around with the Nanocom I found a P1416 fault code which pertains to my SAI system.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...1d8e0cd2fa.jpg

Searching various forums and reading the RAVE I found the SAI pump might be the culprit and could possibly going bad. I learned that I can remove the R6 relay in the engine bay and jump the socket terminals to activate the pump to verify it works without taking it all out and bench check it. I always thought R6 relay was for diesel engine glow plugs. It makes sense since I have a V8 but the glow plug relay was in place so it had to be used for some other electrical circuit.
I jumped the terminals 87 and 30 at the R6 relay socket and the pump barely turned over which confirmed the pump is going bad. Other forum members tried spraying WD40 or carb cleaner down the intake of the SAI pump to get it going again. I'll try that this weekend and report back. Most likely I'll probably end up tearing into it and check the bearings.

This weekend I installed my modified NRG oil catch can with some left over hoses onto my V8 and drove it for a couple of days already.
It’s still too early to see any pros or cons of doing this for a Disco. I noticed already that I need to add hoses that are more temperature resistant and mount the catch can in a better spot which means longer hoses. For now It’s too close to the exhaust manifold.
I also removed the Best 4x4 PCV valve mod (for now) and reinserted the original plastic valve back into the intake manifold. This was in case the catch can caused more of an air flow restriction.

I’ll give it a month to see what happens and report back.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...54c0c5528.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...f45cee687.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...ac1682230.jpeg

Nice looking catch can