I was also going to say galvenized frame. Even if you get a good salvaged frame, you absolutely have to dip it considering the $10,000 or more you have already invested. Thats a no-brainer! Brand new engine and no temp gauge? Shame on you. Anything at anytime can disturb the cooling system and it's bye-bye head gaskets, hello warped cylinder heads. Haha that may be worst-case scenario, but how are you going to know if something does cause it to over-heat? Wait until you see the steam? Because that will happen before the factory gauge starts to move.

 

The plan is to wire brush the entire frame, apply rust proofing paint and primer than several coats of waxoyl. Followed by yearly coats of additional waxoyl. My Ultra-Gauge serves as my temp gauge and perhaps you should look into getting one yourself because it can do so many other things including clearing check engine codes. Im covered. The only thing I dont have yet is a little smartphone app to monitor voltage of o2 sensors and other ****.

 

The only way to save on shipping a chassis frame is to go and pick it up. The other less likely option is finding a driver/company that is hauling to that area with no scheduled load to be picked-up and hauled back, and vice-versa. Or did you have some other option in mind? I don't know of any way to haul that kind of weight and get a "good deal" on it, or save money in any way.

 

Who? Me?

I read the post about the rust proof paint, primer, wax and all that. We are saying galvanizing is far superior. You have already started rebuilding with the best of everything, I suppose most people would recommend a galvenized frame if you must replace that as well. I'm not against you, I just think for the time and money you have already calculated, you should look at the better option.

 

I agree but will not spend $5,000 plus shipping on a new galvanized frame. If you maintain your frame, wash it regularly and coat it with waxoyl every year the frame should last for a very long time no less. If previous owners kept up with it I would not have to worry about it. As for the shipping, if need be I will pay the shipping because it will still be cheaper shipped than a new frame.

 

I didn't say to get a new galvenized frame much less spend $5K on it. You have me all ****ed up and you are acting like a little bitch on top of that. And then suggest that I DOWNGRADE the hardware that I use to connect to my ECU to some little, ****-for-free thing that you have...which doesn't even read oxygen sensors. You and I won't ever have to go back and forth again, that's for sure.

 

The point is that I already have a temp monitoring device as per your suggestion. You would have caught afew posts up. You also suggested a new galvanized frame if Im not mistaken and believe it or not they sell for around $5,000 plus shipping. Sorry you are having a rough day. Im pretty excited about the upcoming months and the future of this vehicle. Im come so far with it and am glad to continue. My build is not any more ambitious or $$$$ crazy than any other build on here. You got folks doing all sorts of crazy **** to their vehicles. Im just going for a more clean well maintained build. Enjoy

 

Just 2 cent's here if I may.....

Galvanizing is the way to go if your goal is long term, you've got Duncan galvanizing is eastern Mass and Connecticut Galvanizing in Glastonbury Connecticut. I've dealt with both in the past for years.......Duncan I ended up suing over the destruction of a product, but for a truck frame I'm sure you'd be ok.
Connecticut Galvanizing would be preferred, if you work with them, they'll dip it over night for you.....so it's trailer down, get a hotel, Glastonbury is a nice area with plenty of restaurant options, pick it up in the AM, head home.

If you bring them a sand blasted frame, I'm willing to bet your out of there for $350 bucks +or-.....maybe a little more with over night service. It's far superior than paint with inside & out protection. I've done business with CG for over 15 years in the past. Just google Galvanizing in New England.

 

Nothing wrong with that. Just saying if you are gonna do a bandaid fix anyway, you can do it with $5 junkyard fan motor and, since the current one is already disassembled, about 30 min of your time.

 

The problem with this plan is that you cannot properly wirebrush and rustproof the inside of the frame.

Im in minnesota, so I had the rear frame rot issue on my 04. After wirewheeling and some cutting off of the bad stuff, I had a couple of holes where I could stick the probe of a HF inspection camera in there. There were rust "sores" going all the way up to the high point of the frame i.e. where rear spring perch is.