I was discussing the relocation in the forums with another member who subsequently sold his Disco. I got some connectors, as did he, and I pulled an old wiring harness apart to figure out how hard it would be. The coil connectors have a common wire (the wire joins) not far to the passenger side of the engine. I sorted my engine out. But it is definitely doable. I don't have SAI so I was just going to hang both coils on the passenger firewall with some sort of simple bracket and use custom spark plug wires.

​​​​​​Then I got the Chevy engine bug (and still have it). With the Chevy conversion I would be using the Rover coils so I decided to just figure it out later. Project temporarily abandoned.

 

Personally, I like the way your mechanic is being cautious about "just throwing money/parts at it". Trying to determine a misfire issue...on an engine that seems to run great at idle or highway conditions can be very, very difficult. (And even worse...if there actually isn't one...but the ECM/ECU thinks there is...but the true problem is modification related)

I'm "getting" what your engine supplier is saying about the tone ring being damaged during installation...but I'm not buying it as the problem. If the tone ring was damaged or misaligned, in my mind, it would cause considerable issues with the running condition and they would be noticable through the entire range of acceleration. I'm not sure if you can see the tone ring through the small inspection plate on the trans bell-housing or not, but I'd be looking for access to get an eyeball on it...to rule it out completely.

Now that the cam issue has been brought up, I'd send another email to your engine builder asking them about that being the possible issue with the misfire codes. Can't remember if you explained to them about the engine "seemingly" running fine, but getting misfire codes, in your first email to them or you just mentioned the codes?

If the MAF you are getting doesn't do the trick...I'd revisit the ignition wires, especially if they've been on and off a few times. The inner terminal end, inside the boot, can become dislodged during removal. Spark plugs could be pulled also, to check compression in each cylinder. I'd surely want to put the condition of the engine to bed...and know that I'm dealing with correct compression readings. I've rebuilt engines that had running issues afterwards...and the first thing I did was grab the compression tester and vacuum gauge. These two items let me know what the enternal conditions of the engine are...once they are diagnosed and within spec...then I can move on from there.

Good luck, hope you get it sorted out soon.

Brian.

 

larger cam can throw false misfires. My cannibal throws a couple misfires on startup some mornings. Usually they are just pending. Google also shows that it happens in other engines with larger cams.

 

I gave up on my intermittent driver side knock sensor code. "Nothing to see here, move along"

on another note. I love that this forum is not discoweb. I only use this forum due to the high ratio of information on how to fix my truck compared to "other stuff".

Charlie this was gold. Wouldn't the engine management adjust to the new cam though?

 

It does. Mine ran good from get go. But I think TRIARII has a more aggressive cam. I am not sure how the knock sensors work but I know that while you can throw them at a pesky cat with no harm, they are " finely tuned " . Or so Land Rover says (about the tuning, not the cat). Also, on a very hot cam it can be necessary to change or double the valve springs so the valves slam shut between strokes. I went with a milder cam and avoided the new springs; I'm not sure what valve springs TRIARII has but if the valves don't close between strokes ("valve float") that can cause the computer to think there is a misfire or affect vacuum (which is just generated by air passage in the intake). I think that is at higher RPMs, though.

Most knock sensor issues are in the wiring. They are basically passive receivers so the wiring has to be rock solid and, as I found when I opened mine up, it is literally an electrical tape patch job close to the connector, from the factory. It exits the upper intake as a coax type shielded cable and ends up split for the connector.

 

I'm pretty sure that the knock sensor wires got pinched drivers side when my truck got a replacement engine in '09.

still very good advice regarding the cam. Julian, are you getting actual MIL triggering misfire codes or pending codes?

 

I understand plugs wires and coils but camshafts are still beyond me. When I ordered the new block I just wanted ALL the additional options (oil pump assembly, water pump, ductile lines, head gaskets and performance camshaft). Assumed it would give my engine more "ummph" especially while travsering hills and higher elevations. Had I known that a beefier cam might cause false misfires and thus prevent my truck from getting an inspection sticker than I may have reconsidered a genuine replacement stock camshaft for the new block.

I want to wait before reaching out to Turner again, until Ive tried the MAF and if need be the wires to. That way I can rule those possibilities out of the way. My initial email to Turner I did not go into specifics regarding what codes Im getting and how the truck drives (I should have though). Since January my truck has had a unique idle that I assumed was the misfires but after talking with my mechanic he explained that the HD engine mounts Im using along with a beefier camshaft can be felt as the truck idles. I forgot the terminology he used for the little vibration. The misfire codes maintain a pending status and dont trigger the check engine light so far. But Im pretty sure pending codes will result in a failed emissions inspection. If I were already Alaska I guess it would not be a big deal because they dont do safety or emissions inspections. NH is VERY strict in both areas.

 

i have a "lumpy" cam in my '93 LWB. It idles compeltely
differently to my '94.

If your MIL never triggers, I'm not convinced that you have a problem at all. I can't speak for NH, but a pending code won't fail an inspection out here in Seattle as long as the monitor is in ready state.

 

Ah I wasn't thinking about inspection, but even my mild cam made it feel a little rumbly at idle. I also got more torque and horsepower and maybe even a little better gas mileage. I think you did good TRIARII. Now get to Alaska and start making me jealous!

I'm in Texas. ... inspections aren't a huge deal here, outside of the major cities. The only code or light that will fail is the red brake light, where I live.

 

I could be mistaken about pending codes being terms for failed inspection. Guess we will just have to wait and see how things play out. On another note my shuttle valve switch is progressivly on its way out. 3 amigos pop up and I found svs failure code in system. Not a hard fault yet and does not trigger any check engine light (P1590 = rough road/bad sensor triggered my cel) but they go away when the truck is turned off. So cross my fingers that a cheap shuttle valve switch kit from AB resolves that and nothing else ****s the bed until after my trip.....

As for my trip Im hoping on January but have to wait until my employer gives me the go ahead. They provide room/board during fishing season but the fishing is usually really slow from January-April and they put a cap on how many employees are allowed to return for work early. Most wait until the salmon season in late June to head up. I really CANNOT wait that long. Very impatient and want to hurry up and get this trip over with so I can start the next chapter of life. Gonna miss my mechanic though. Probably not many folks like him in the world and as I said before I dont trust anyone doing work on my truck.... Been trying to learn as much as I can about my truck while im in New England so I can do more diy work later uo the road.

On a final note as I monitor temps across Alaska and northern Canada Im very concerned with the possibility of not being able to start my truck after say an 8 hour break from driving. My hope is to drive 8 hours and sleep 6-8 hours and repeat for duration of trip. But with temps in -30 in some areas I cant imagine how the hell my truck is gonna start. Since Ill be on the road I wont have access to a power source so my engine block heater is useless. Im considering switching to Mobile 1 0W-40 during the trip and during all future winter months. Then switching back to Rotella 10w-30 for the warmer months. I also purchased a radiator muff. Thats all I can think to do though.