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You neglected a couple of key items on the brake fluid bleeding. First of all is the order it should be performed in. You want to start with the caliper fartherest from the brake reservoir. Passenger's rear first, then driver's rear, followed by passenger's front and doing the driver's front last. Also, you want to get all the entrapped air bubbles out, not just the old dirty fluid.
Also, you missed the boat totally on the power steering fluid directions. |
All in all this is a great post!! Thank you!
Can anyone confirm if those are the right fluids? This post doesn't really mention the correct ones that should be used for the Transfer case, transmission fluid and others. I read that the R380gearbox is actually supposed to take Redline MTF rather than ATF. Also I've heard contingencies on the Dextron... I recently tried to get my transmission oil changed and couldnt get the drain plug out grrrr! PVblaster to the rescue! So I changed the transfer case oil instead using Royal Purple 75W90 gear oil. Pretty sure this should be okay for my 94 :s Here are the capacities for anyone that needs them even though they are in the RAVE: @font-face { font-family: "Cambria"; }p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal { margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman"; }div.Section1 { page: Section1; } US units Imperial Metric WSM Fuel tank - usable capacity ................. 23.4 US gal 19.5 Imp gal 89,0 litre Engine sump .................................... 6.3 US quarts 10.50 Imp pt 6,10 litre Additional capacity after fitting new oil filter .................................... 0.65 US quarts 1.00 Imp pt 0,56 litre Manual gearbox ................................ 2.8 US quarts 4.70 Imp pt 2,67 litre Automatic gearbox ........................... 9.5 US quarts 15.70 Imp pt 9,10 litre Transfer box ..................................... 2.4 US quarts 4.00 Imp pt 2,30 litre Front differential ............................... 1.8 US quarts 3.00 Imp pt 1,70 litre Rear differential ................................ 1.8 US quarts 3.00 Imp pt 1,70 litre Cooling system ............................... 12.0 US quarts 20.00 Imp pt 11,30 litre Washer reservoir .............................. 7.0 US quarts 12.00 Imp pt 7,00 litre |
For LHD Discos the rear driver's side caliper is actually the furthest from the master cylinder. Check the plumbing. ;)
No reason you have to use 50/50 premix. You can save a lot of money by buying full strength anti-freeze and cutting it 50% with distilled water. Yes, the R380 takes MTL. There was a TSB on it saying to use it instead of ATF. #55 Torx for the filler plug. |
Re:edits
Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
(Post 213247)
You neglected a couple of key items on the brake fluid bleeding. First of all is the order it should be performed in. You want to start with the caliper fartherest from the brake reservoir. Passenger's rear first, then driver's rear, followed by passenger's front and doing the driver's front last. Also, you want to get all the entrapped air bubbles out, not just the old dirty fluid.
Also, you missed the boat totally on the power steering fluid directions. I did add the brake bleed DIY instructions. And the Power Steering was off of eHOW. All I did was go through the forums and find the threads for all of this.
Originally Posted by antichrist
(Post 213254)
For LHD Discos the rear driver's side caliper is actually the furthest from the master cylinder. Check the plumbing. ;)
No reason you have to use 50/50 premix. You can save a lot of money by buying full strength anti-freeze and cutting it 50% with distilled water. Yes, the R380 takes MTL. There was a TSB on it saying to use it instead of ATF. #55 Torx for the filler plug. |
what the heck is going on here? this thread is a mess. title makes no sense. its two writeups or one and a half with no pictures.
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Maybe DM said to do it like this. LOL
Originally Posted by calebbo
(Post 213243)
Order of bleeding:
A) Passenger Rear B) Driver Rear C) Passenger Front D) Driver Front
Originally Posted by antichrist
(Post 213254)
For LHD Discos the rear driver's side caliper is actually the furthest from the master cylinder. Check the plumbing.
Originally Posted by hilltoppersx
(Post 213265)
what the heck is going on here? this thread is a mess. title makes no sense. its two writeups or one and a half with no pictures.
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again...
You probably don't want to recommend that people remove the radiator overflow tank in order to flush the PS system...
just a suggestion. :cool: I can tell your intentions are good but maybe you should hold off on making technical suggestions for just a bit longer... get some time under the hood first. |
i have one to add.
Changing Blinker Fluid 1 find nearest Packard automotive dealership and contact them to ensure you will not void your warranty by changing your own blinker fluid 2 donkey punch your wife 3 remove hood 4 place bolts in a bag and shake vigorously 5 grease engine with WD40, Crude Oil or ice cream before removing 6 unscrew headlight assembly. 7 pour only dealer approved SYNTHETIC blinker fluid into headlight assembly. 8 drink bleach 9 reassemble light 10 replace engine 11 sh!t in your hand. |
but...
As much as I just laughed my arse off just now (hilltoppresx) and as much as I would LOVE to pile on... I just can't bring myself to do it. Beacuse I do believe Caleb is trying to be helpful and he is VERY excited about being a Rover owner.
Caleb I suggest you just take it easy and be more like a sponge for a while... soak it all up... instead of trying to be a faucet of knowledge that you just don't have yet. I know (from your signature) you'd prefer us old guys get out of your way so you can get to L-I-V-I-N past 16 but there is a lot to be said for experience. You'll get there buddy , you just need to be patient, turn a wrench or two and learn. AND IF you think I am out of line, I suggest you head on over to D Web or Pirate for a few seconds and post up some helpful tips... :cool: We are being VERY nice. So again, welcome and keep the QUESTIONS coming. |
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