The other photo is of the cruise control actuator. The bellow on that part frequently rot out from age. A hose should run from the nipple on the end of the actuator back to the pump IIRC but that info is outlined in the RAVE. The other photo of the broken hose at the firewall leads to the cruise control switch at the back of the brake pedal. Again, nothing to worry about.

I'm late to this discussion but have you checked to see if you hear a click from the fuel relay when you turn the key, even to the accessory II position. If you don't hear a click I would start there in diagnosing the issue with your fuel delivery.

 

Thank you for stepping up. This is an awesome truck that has suffered neglect not abuse. Yes, get clicks from pass. footwell every time, and taking the tire valve cap off the fuel rail and pushing the tire-stem-like valve gets ample fuel. Tried the On Board Diagnostic and get nothing. Tested spark the old way taking the coil to diz cap wire and it appears to me the spark is feeble and weak not sharp like it should be (has a new coil-- same result as old one). Have to crank 10-15 seconds and be quick w/ the foot and catch it, then it runs freakin' great. Sometimes no start under same circumstances.

 

What did you set the timing to?

 

With hose off + plugged 6*btdc.

 

Ok, timing is in spec. I've had a few 3.9 liters that would only run/idle with 1 or 2 degrees more advance.

You asked about the switch under the hood, it's the switch for the alarm. If the alarm is working just leave it alone. If you want to replace it because the boot is torn get part #AMR2022

 

I will kick it up 1-2*. Just went out to give it a try- cranked for 15-20+ seconds, nothing. Did the sinful thing-- quick shot of starting fluid, and it fired right up. Sure wish the little diagnostic display would light up and tell us something.

Interesting pm: took the underhood alarm button off, put pb blaster in and around button + connector, put it back in. Tried and it started 3x after maybe 2 seconds cranking. Will try this several times later this eve, and again in the am. Possible that thing was doing 1/2 of its job and blocking and/or 'leaking' electrons?

 

This is the inertia switch. Its marked w/ the bright yellow that is often used on junkyard parts. I also got pb blaster into it, too. Wonder if PO and a "mechanic" were coping w/ this truck's issues? Do not have a fob, only a key. Prefer to not deal w/ immobilizer issues. Had a '96 MB S600 that we used only the valet key in it for maybe 3 yrs.

 

You can measure your fuel PSI from the fuel rail. Also if it runs fine up until it warms up I'd take a look at your ignition amplifier for the dizzy. I know on older RRC it was famous for getting hot & causing a no start situation until it had cooled back down. On the 94/95 D1 they remotely mounted them away from the dizzy, but they can still go out.

Fuel pump wise you can always slap in a Chevy replacement fuel pump and save the rest of the assembly.

 

Interesting! Went out this eve to give it a try. Turned on and off and on 3x to try and prime. Cranked, no start. Friend took the end of a wrench and tapped the inertia switch a couple of times. Started faster than it ever has. Will keep y'all posted.

 

Progress: 1. Fuel injection cleaner added to fuel. 2. All power-to-the-pump connections cleaned esp connector near driver's rear wheel. Removed and jumpered out the inertia switch. No dying and started on first turn. Inertia switch was likely a player: "ball" inside would stick when switch is rotated tilted etc.