Doing this tomorrow, looking for any tips or advice like which end to remove first, how much fuel will poor out, etc.

I've already removed the rear wheel (that was fun) and everything is soaking in PB Blast now.

Thanks!

 

If it hasn't been done in awhile it will be a son of a beotch and judging by the overall condition you've been battling with I'd say it's not been removed for sometime. If and when you do bust the connection free use anit-seize compound to make the next removal easier. You'll be lucky to pass compressed air through the filter, you'll wonder how the motor ran as well as it did. If you have long open end/combo's that makes a huge difference because it's a tight, tight space to work in. Also use anti-seize on your lugs, it'll keep you from getting a hernia busting lugs free.........

So far you've covered almost every area of the Disco that causes one to swear out loud, doing good.....

 

You can also vent pressure by the schrader valve on the fuel rail passenger side into a suitable rag.

 

I found it pretty easy actually. Just unbolt both ends, unbolt clamp, remove, and let gas drain out. I had about a cup or two of gas pour out. It evaporates easily.

 

Thanks guys, just what I was looking for. I will report back later.

This is the last wheel that I haven't removed for one reason or another and was by far the hardest to get off (although none were easy). The lugs where frozen then the wheel itself stuck to the hub. Each of the others has been reassembled with liberal use of anti-seize as will this one.

 

You'll be lucky if the clamp is reusable. Mine was a scrap of rusty metal. Definitely a worthwhile job though. I could not blow through my old fuel filter. Of course, I was changing it while replacing my dead fuel pump - coincidence ?

 

Well I'm sure the extra resistance didn't do your pump any good DiscoJag.

The clamp was completely shot. However I was able to get the old filter out with typical difficulties of room to work, rust, etc. The filter wasn't completely blocked as others have noted but there is a lot of resistance to just blowing through the inlet. Certainly a lot more than the new filter has (which is essentially nothing).

I ended up wrapping the new filter in some old heater hose that I split then zip-tied it all together and to the mount. I debated removing the mount altogether for more room and so the filter wouldn't rub on it but decided to keep it in case I ever find a good clamp.

While down there I also noted my return or vent line line from the fuel filler was badly cracked. I was able to cut off the bad part and re-route the tubing in a manner that allowed it to re-connect. Wasn't easy but hopefully that will keep fuel from pouring out when I fill it up now. I'm just now working on my second tank of gas.

 

Know what your getting for mileage?

 

211 miles on 18.2 Gal (11.6 MPG). I had a lot of idling and fooling around with stuff on this first tank so obviously I'm hoping for better on the next tank.

Super unleaded is $3.37/Gal here and diesel about $0.50 more. My truck get's about 16 mpg though so I'm a little bit afraid to do the math at this point.

Rover is much better in the snow though...I've been pleasantly surprised by that. Then how can you put a price on all the job-satisfaction on doing the job(s) yourself!?! I also like seeing the look on people's face when I tell them I bought it for 300 bucks! ;-)

 

Just wondering if you already had begun finding out your mileage and actually that's not all that bad. 91 is all you need, 93 is overkill. How's the cap and rotor look? One thing about these trucks is the back likes to become the front on slick packed snow. Maybe it's just mine....I don't know. I've learned to throttle steer with the tc unlocked and it works like a champ. I hardly ever lock my transfer case in the winter unless I'm pulling someone out, really deep snow on the road or on a winter trail ride. If I do lock it it's in high only. Locked just makes the whole truck slide instead of one axle. YMMV. These things do motor on when most 4x4 have a hard time keeping it together on the slick stuff. The private road I live on is a half mile long and two steep hills. Slick going up and slick going down. Up is no issue, soldiers on slow and steady, down is first gear so I don't end up in the swamp at the the end of hill two. Has a sharp 90 degree right turn at the bottom. One mistake and it's frozen wet feet huffing it back to the pole barn for the come-a-long and tree strap.