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-   -   94 Disco, will not start (https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-i-39/94-disco-will-not-start-54230/)

Viper61 Nov 12, 2012 02:46 PM


Originally Posted by Spike555 (Post 356564)
Is the new battery fully charged?
Most are dead or near dead when bought brand new.

Battery was good to go and recharged today for good measure...i'm thinking relay by the clicks i am doing. Not even getting a click from the solenoid, it is all coming from behind the glovebox

Jake1996D1 Nov 12, 2012 02:46 PM


Originally Posted by JPSpen (Post 356733)
Check the wiring.. Sounds like a ground has gone bad..
I worked on one of my cars for three days.. Replaced the starter and finally figured out the negative battery cable was bad...

Measure the voltage at the battery.. Turn the key to start.. Voltage should drop a little while cranking.. If no crank and no voltage drop, Then you need to check the + side of the solenoid for voltage...
You should be able to jump from battery + to solenoid + and get the engine to crank if nothing else.. If that doesn't happen. You've got a bad cable somewhere..

If you get a big voltage drop and no crank. Bad battery..

Good Luck

John

This, check your voltages it's the only way to know what the issue is...

Viper61 Nov 12, 2012 02:58 PM


Originally Posted by JPSpen (Post 356733)
Check the wiring.. Sounds like a ground has gone bad..
I worked on one of my cars for three days.. Replaced the starter and finally figured out the negative battery cable was bad...

Measure the voltage at the battery.. Turn the key to start.. Voltage should drop a little while cranking.. If no crank and no voltage drop, Then you need to check the + side of the solenoid for voltage...
You should be able to jump from battery + to solenoid + and get the engine to crank if nothing else.. If that doesn't happen. You've got a bad cable somewhere..

If you get a big voltage drop and no crank. Bad battery..

Good Luck

John

Good info, I appreciate it. I posted replies to a couple of others in reference to it might being a starter relay or ECU based on all the clicks I hear from behind the glove box. Even when i depress the gear selector button. Going back outside now to double check the grounds...

Viper61 Nov 12, 2012 03:09 PM


Originally Posted by Jake1996D1 (Post 356823)
This, check your voltages it's the only way to know what the issue is...

I'm going back outside now, I'm going to check everything again, anywhere and anything i can get a reading from I'm checking it.

ihscouts Nov 12, 2012 03:23 PM

Have you checked your ignition switch lately? Very easy to do on a 94. Once removed try giving it a crank with a small flat blade screw driver and give it a wiggle while twisting. I'd bet a buck it's contacts are Lucas-fried.

ihscouts Nov 12, 2012 03:55 PM

In the ETM for the 95 there is a great troubleshooting flow chart and it starts with the starter solenoid relay.....which is what your hearing click. Yellow relay right next to and behind the green relay on bottom ledge of relays. It's behind RH kick panel. Good luck eh.

As far as I'm aware of what you've checked and done and what hasn't been checked it's either the ignition switch, solenoid relay or the alarm unit breaking the ground connection between the ignition switch and the starter bendix.

Viper61 Nov 12, 2012 07:19 PM


Originally Posted by ihscouts (Post 356842)
In the ETM for the 95 there is a great troubleshooting flow chart and it starts with the starter solenoid relay.....which is what your hearing click. Yellow relay right next to and behind the green relay on bottom ledge of relays. It's behind RH kick panel. Good luck eh.

As far as I'm aware of what you've checked and done and what hasn't been checked it's either the ignition switch, solenoid relay or the alarm unit breaking the ground connection between the ignition switch and the starter bendix.

Thanks, I am going to try that tomorrow. I have to be honest when it comes to the relays my DIY skills are zero. I am going to have to do a lot of reading before I tackle those tomorrow. I am going to start with the ignition switch. I am also going to drop another inhibitor switch in the tranny just to try and see if mine is fried. My research revealed if that is in fact faulty there is no way to power the solenoid on the starter. I will let you know what i find during tomorrows rounds of surgery...

ihscouts Nov 12, 2012 07:42 PM

The Rave (at least my copy, there are a few) shows how to check the relay pins by number. This is in the Starting/Charging section of the ETM - Electrical Troubleshooting Manuals.

The sad part of the problem is it can be one of several things. Again, isolation is the only way to find out. Using the ETM will help a ton by following the wiring diagrams. Pretty darn easy.

Viper61 Nov 15, 2012 04:51 PM

Well, got the wiring starting issue sorted out....sort of. Thanks to everyone's help and replies. The issue ended up being a corroded starter ignition relay wire and ground strap that connects to the starter. The starter ground strap had corroded at the ground location and the starter ignition relay wire that plugs into the bladed connection had corroded back near the rear of the motor. I crimped a new section onto it and then crimped a new connection to where it connects to the starter. Now for the fun part.......................
I turned the key it was sluggish at first and then it appears/sounds like the bendix is not engaging the flywheel. I have hooked up jumper cables to help recharge the battery tapped with a rubber hammer trying to free it. It spins strongly but it is not engaging. I am assuming the best order of business next is to remove the starter and re-installing it and see if that helps along with recharging the new battery....again

Viper61 Nov 15, 2012 04:53 PM

BTW, I also replaced the ground strap. in case anyone else has this problem I found one at Auto Zone for 5.99.


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