96 disco complete rebuild or just heads??
 

I have a 96 disco, she started off with a temp issue I replaced thermo and vis fan it fixed her issue for 6 months. Then she had a power issue changed plugs and wires helped out but didn't fix it. As of just recently she started over heating turned out to be low oil. Turns out I had a valve cover leak in the rear I hadn't noticed. I also have an issue going over 45mph. Then I started losing coolant but don't know where. Started over heating again, changed thermo again and plugs. Now I have no compressing in one cylinder and a strange air noise from the passanager rear side of the motor.

Any advice or help is greatly appreciated.

If there is no compression then something bad is going on for sure.

how many miles?did you regularly change oil and coolant over the years?is it blowing smoke?the air hissing or spitting may very well be the head gasket,is it coming from around the cylinder with little or no compression?if the truck is not blowing smoke the firering around the cylinder may still be intact and that would cause me concern about the loss of compression,having said that these trucks are pretty hearty on the bottom end,are you prepared to spend the money for head gaskets? if not i would throw a bottle of k-seal in the rad and gingerly drive it around [not up and down mountains!],if power seems better and hissing goes away chances are it's only the head gaskets and you might buy some time,i wouldn't want to pay someone to pull the heads only to tell you a cylinder is shot and you need to replace engine [that could get really expensive], wish you luck

I just hit 176,000 I'm the third owner and in the year and half I've had her I've done one coolant change and one oil change. It's had white exhaust but it comes and goes. The air noise sounds like it's coming from the right side of the motor and the compression failed on the left. I did a wet test on cylinder 5 and the Piston is moving. I'm going to do all the work myself, hopefully. I've read that the cylinder has a sleeve if that's slipped or bad can't I just replace that and not the block?

when you did your test did you compare results of each cylinder to see the difference.i.m not a mechanic and would never want to give wrong advice,my understanding is that if one is slipped you basically have to remove block,heat it and push out. at that point your almost better getting a short block,losing compression on an old engine isn't unusual and i've heard the d1 are less inclined to slip than the d2,if you start and pull heads and find a slipped liner then your committed to go all the way.many on this forum know much more specifics but i would start by reporting exact comp on each cyl to see diff,i'd still throw a bottle of k-seal in first cause it ain't gonna matter if you have to replace,[btw,there's nothing more attractive than to hear a woman talk about tearing into her engine!!!] best of luck

At this point I'm already sure I'mma half to break her down. I have another car to drive for the time being so I'll figure it out the sure way. Is there any other reason I wouldn't get compression other than a cracked head or block or a bad liner?

Update... I was taking off my hoses that go to my fire wall and the top of my motor had this pinkish grimy stuff the hoses were stuck. But the grimy stuff was acidic. Any ideas on what this is?

Stuck open valve. And no, no idea who might use naval jelly on your hoses.

Update. Valve dented piston
 

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...d2c6e048a7.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...a67228f006.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...349078343c.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...ffe7100889.jpg

Spring cleaning X10. That's a record in my book, I've seen em carbon bunged up but that motor was left to die a slow painful death. Watcha gonna do?