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96 Disco Starting issue - Crank but no catch

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Old 12-10-2010, 02:56 PM
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Default 96 Disco Starting issue - Crank but no catch

1996 Discovery SE7 Manual Trans, 95+K Miles

I am hoping to just have someone validate my troubleshooting approach before getting way over my head.
Parked my 96 Disco, seemingly with no issues, was running a little rough, but running well. When back to leave and it will crank, smells like fuel, but will not catch. Couple times it tried to start - sounded like it was almost there, but when I stopped cranking - it stopped.

Went to check pressure at the injectors and got nothing. No fuel, no pressure.
Checked to see if Fuel Pump was running with key in II position, it was not.
Noticed "clicking" from passenger wheel well.
After reading the links here, tried a new Fuel Pump relay and tried it with same results - strong crank, no start.

SO

I figure my next steps will be to check the power at the Fuel Pump - if yes - replace Pump.
If no power - ????? Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:29 PM
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Default Codes MISSING?

Also - no codes from the reader - plugs up, reads - nothing to display.

check engine light comers on when attempting to start - stays on.
 
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:42 PM
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The CEl wills tay on until it fires.

Check the inertia switch on the firewall. Make sure the button in pushed in. With your year and mileage, I would say pump. Remember that it only runs for a few seconds when you turn the key on, then shuts off. There will be a set of connectors for the pump, and a set for the gauge. The gauge will be hot at all times, but the others only for a bit when the key is first turned. Might have to have an extra set of hands while checking voltage.
 
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:08 PM
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Default Inertia Switch

Thanks for the reply!
I checked the Inertia switch - seemed to be ok, I pushed to re-set with the same results.

I will head the way of the pump and let you know.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:11 PM
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No prob.

If it is the pump, I think there is a cheaper Airtex replacement for just the pump itsself. It is a bit of a booger to swap, but if your gauge is reading right, it is a chance to save a few bucks

Check your connections back there too. Goop likes to hide on the top of the tank and cause problems..
 
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:35 PM
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Default Pump....

I would definitely be interested in saving some $$! I have seen/read about guys making those substitutions - and the added woes. Guess I will cross that bridge once I figure the real issue.
The reason I say that is because after reading this (and other) repair threads, in addition to going through the RAVE for a couple (ok, 12 hours)it appears that there could be other issues as well.
For instance - when I open the hood to check fuses, inertia switch etc... noticed a fair amount of build up/corrosion on the battery itself. Think there is a chance I am dealing with a bad ground? I will be pulling the cables and cleaning before I go any further.
At the same time replacing wires from the coil, as while I was checking these things, also noticed that the wire for the #3 injector was sparking to the engine when cranking. Again - other threads seem to indicate that could be the cause of misfires etc...so want to eliminate that as a potential cause as well.

Do you feel that I should eliminate those first? Or get it running THEN deal with those?

Once again - can't tell you how informative this forum has been and how appreciative I am for the guidance.
 
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:10 PM
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I assume you mean the wire for the #3 spark plug was arcing out. Get some good 8MM plug wires. Not the 7MM you can get at the parts house (they will last 6 months). I run Magnacors from apexperformance.net. Some people run othet brands. Just make sure they are 8mm.

Don't overthink the pump. You don't have pressure and it isn't turning on. Pull up the carpet in the back, remove the screws holding the access plate, and check the wiring and voltage. My pump went out in the driveway. It took me 20 minutes to retro the airtex back in and it works great. You have a 96, so it is preAEL, where mine is POST AEL, but I think the pump will work. Do some searching. I believe most of the ill affects have nothing to do with the pump, just poor diagnosis on anothet problem.
 
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:09 PM
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Pre and post AEL (advanced evaporative loss) use the same pump, just different fuel lines and wire connectors.
So the Airtex pump that OKDGuy used is the same one for your '96.
I think it is Airtex 3840, but PLEASE do a search for it.
Otherwise if you want a direct drop in then www.Roversnorth.com has a Proline fuel pump for around $100 that is the complete unit and just drops right in.
30 mins from start to finish.
 
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:15 AM
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Default Pump Etc

Thank you again for the replies. I will be checking for the replacement Airtex. I should be able to handle that switch over.

As for the wires - that IS what I meant - thanks. Will look for some 8mm.

Digging into this now - will post the result.
 
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Old 12-11-2010, 03:18 PM
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Default Sorry for a noob follow up

I have the pump housing out, but am strugling with the "accordion" tubes. They DO just pull from the pump, right? (I dont want to break something that isn't)
Also - I think the pump I need for pre-advanced evap, and this is the one:
Airtex - part# E3270


At least that looks like the one I removed.

Thanks again!
 


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