Thanks again guys!
Airtex PM 3720 worked great, only adjustment I made was to couple the pump to the housing with 5/16 Fuel Injector hose and 2 clamps.
But - you were correct - it was a bit of a booger.
Got a bottle of Seafoam for once this is over.
Also - top of the pump assembly is not cracked, but it looks close. should I epoxy just in case?
Thanks again for your advice - now for the filter and wires.

 

I would advise the ProLine fuel Pump assembly from Rover's North. Direct drop in, I put one in my early 97 which is the Pre-AEL.

Once those tops start to crack, you will always have a problem. I speak from experience. I screwed with mine for two weeks before I wised up and got the ProLine.

It has worked fine ever since.

 

Thanks Danny! Will be doing exactly that. Have to wait for Christmas to pass first.
Also, thanks for the other threads on this replacement. Took the guess work out of this project and was great information.

 

If there were an award for best thread of the week this thread would be the winner-winner, chicken dinner.

Clearly described problem and symptoms, determined attempt at pre-post research, concise and correct solutions with advice and problem solved... mostly.

 

Based on other threads in this forum, I used some dielectric grease on my wires and the "short" is gone until I get the new wires.
New fuel filter, cleaned MAF, new airfilter, cleaned sensors and throttle body and she runs so much better now.

Thanks again for all the advice!

 

I spent a few weeks struggling with the combination of a cracked top on my fuel pump, corroded fuel lines including the fuel filter becoming one with what was left of it's clamp, a cracked filler neck tube to mention a few things. Since I replaced everything with new, no more problems in that area.

You can't beat that ProLine Pump Assembly. One interesting thing I learned while dealing with mine was that the fuel pump access panel under the rear cargo pad is a direct result of early Range Rover owners having to cut their own access panels to avoid having to drop the fuel tank.

After LR learned of so many RR owners cutting a hole in the rear cargo area floor pan they implemented that feature that we enjoy on our Discovery.

 

It certainly made things a LOT easier! Had dropping the tank been part of the equation - that would have made it ugly.

Still - the screws on mine were rusted to the point of needing a vice grips to get them off. I did not have to go as far as you did and drill them out - but did require a little extra effort. However, replacement screws were a WHOPPING $0.79, and now I know how to do it.

To be honest, your thread regarding the pump replacement was very helpful, but I had read a couple of yours, and saw another where you did some pretty significant modifications to the top of the pump housing - and although I READ how easy it was - the pic's and discussion had me nervous.

If I had it to do over, I would order the drop in replacement - and that would be my advice for anybody else attempting to do this. for less than $20 more, to NOT have to worry about getting everything re-seated in the housing, then worrying about the top assembly - it would have been worth it for peace of mind alone!

 

Thanks Cosmic - I certainly feel like I got the better end of this deal though. GREAT information and advice.

 

I am glad that my earlier postings helped you. I was sure that smearing a little fuel resistant RTV or something like that would seal it up, boy was I wrong. I kept looking at the prices on the whole fuel pump assemblies everywhere else, I was glad to find the ProLine. I wish had found it earlier, but I learned from my experience.

In the early days, I had used jet fuel cell sealant to patch a hole in my 1967 Chevy SportVan 90's gas tank. Some idiot had punched a whole in it while my squadron was in the middle of the Artic Circle. I thought patching the Rover would work as well, but it was a horrible waste of time and effort as well as money spent on sealants and such.

A hundred bucks well spent for that ProLine Assembly. Glad it was Pre-AEL.

Oh yeah, it's hard to beat a good shade tree when mechaniccing. I like a big oak so you can hoist a motor out over a strong limb if you need to.

 

As they go, the Oak's ARE the best for exactly that! I tend to stay away from Willows, but that's for another reason entirley!

I was initially CERTAIN that I could "patch" or plug, or preempt the leaking with one of the "miracle" fixes found in every parts store and am really glad I did not waste my time. It just really chaps me that I pulled the trigger on the $95 "band aid" instead of just doing it right.
OKDiscoguy even told me about the drop in, I just got fixated on the "save some $$" part and didn't do any type of inspection of the housing when I pulled it. (I will also blame it on the 20 degree temperature...I was willing to do ANYTHING to be out of that wind!)
However, and not to rub it in at all, the $200 that I will have invested is still well less than "others" But only because of the responses.

Lesson learned - at least for this go-round.