97' Disco turns, no start,low fuel pressure,new pump
 

Hello there new to the forum ......new to the land rover disco.......just bought 1997 disco - not running...

It was running not to long ago.....then wouldn't start, previous owner replaced fuel pump....can hear it working....also hear clicking in relays by passenger floor, still not getting fuel pressure, so he replaced the fuel filter and then had to jump from starting to much......Disco STARTED . Left to idle for a bit.....and came out to find it had died......has not started since.....can not be jumped............replaced two relays on pass side floor .....still no start
relays still click, can still hear pump......starter sounded sluggish to me....although i never heard it running or what it normally sounds like.....fuel just dribbles from the presure relief valve when pushed...no spray.....when gas cap is turned you can tell the tank has been pressurized ....sucks air in.....Any ideas......Is there a second filter? what next...........Oh yeah in position 2 the service engine light did not time out
and.....no codes but may have been wiped by the low bat? New to the Disco figure might as well get the nice looking one rather than the running one and break myself in sooner than later........other car is a Trooper- in shop for tranny work.....driving a rental so do not want to regret this ',)

Have you actually replaced the fuel pump relay? Was the entire pump assembly replaced or just the pump?

If you hear a hissing sound coming form the gas tank leave the gas cap off and try and start it.
There was a recall on the gas tanks because they would not vent properly and the engine would be fuel starved.
Also do like Mike said and make sure the fuel pump relay is replaced and that the fuel filter was not installed backwards.

have tried starting with cap loose and off.......no start.... will check for hiss when I pick it up tomorrow.....only the pump was replaced not the assembly.......fuel filter was done after pump didnt fix......and was able to start with a jump........cables were removed and jumper car was moved out of the way....he was going to take it for a drive......it died....never has started again... also have lights etc.....he did reset radio code but did not have any other codes...no fob, and the back door does not open due disconnected lock assembly...only opens with key.............Also the tank seems to hold the pressure fine....but I will double check tomorrow.....

On the hissing how loud would this be ? louder than the pump?
Where was the problem with the recalled tank??
Is there any way to determine it was fixed on a recall?

about alarm sys:
.does the alarm system shut the fuel pump down? my understanding is that it does....so this should not be the issue right?

I want to check the pump install.....if it was installed backwards would it have ever started? would the fuel regulator allow gas to move through the opposite direction ?

also plugs have not been checked........

on the relay yes both of the clicking relays under at the passenger front side were changed....still make same noise...

Thank you so much for the help !!

The fuel pump relay is under the hood on the passenger fender.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/YWB100820LG.cfm
I dont know if the fuel pump could have been installed backwards or not.
The fuel filter can be.
Yes the alarm shuts down the fuel pump.
Does it turn over and not start?
Or is it not even turning over?
There should NOT be any hiss when you remove the gas cap.
To know if the recall has been done you will need to call the dealer with the VIN#.

it turns over but does not start...........can hear pump

definatley a hiss from presure in tank when cap opened

so the tank should not be pressurized ?

No That relay module has not been changed ...

See the attached pictures: https://landroverforums.com/forum/album.php?albumid=272

I had to replace my fuel pump assembly due to a nasty crack in the plastic top that was allowing the poressure to bleed off. Attempts to repair the crack were not a success, just a waste of time, effort and money on various sealants.

Mine is an "early" 97, that is pre-AEL version. I bought a complete new ProLine fuel pump assembly from Rovers North for 100 bucks. Works great, direct drop in replacement as well.

I confirmed gas tank was replaced on recall by contacting local LR dealer with the VIN.

I also had to completely replace fuel lines from tank to engine bay and back and new filter relocated to more accessable location along the side of the frame instead of inside wheel well.

With new pump assembly, lines and filter, there is a strong pressure hiss when removing the gas cap. I have a new gas cap due to driving off one day with old one on top of bumper or gas pump or whereever I left it. My new replacement even says turn one quarter turn and allow pressure to escape prior to fully removing. I strongly disagree with anyone who says the tank does not get pressurized during operation. I speak from personal experience.

I also had to replace the large rubber hose from the fill nozzle to the tank due to severe cracking. If your system has good pressure integrity, you should hear it hiss when removing the cap. The hiss coming from the pressure venting off, not suction as some people claim. It is a closed system , why wouldn't it pressurize to some degree?

Take a look at the pictures from my photo album. Also, the RAVE states to depressurize prior to loosening the lines when changing the fuel filter. That also confirms my position that the system should hold pressure, even when turned off. Not everyone seems to agree with that position. But I could really care less about what they believe. One even said that the engine running after shutoff relieves the pressure. I seriously doubt that.

You should have somewhere around 30+ pounds pressure at the shrader valve. Be careful probing it. Mine sprung a nasty leak when I tried reading it with a dial type tire gauge. The insert unscrews like a standard tire valve, which is what I ended up replacing the damaged insert on mine. Mine did not have a protective cap on it when I got it, so the insert may have degraded due to that.

I went to the nearest old timey gas station, tire dealer garage down the street and they matched up the insert by the color code and size and gave me a handful of replacements. So far it is doing fine. I was unable to get any specific data on what insert should be in there, but I did Google Schrader Valve and found out the the Schrder company manufactures both the housing and a wide variey of insert based upon various applications, anything from tires to high pressure fluids and gases. A tire guage will wok in a crunch, a fuel pressure guage that screws on the housing is better.

If yours does leak, the entire housing does unbolt from the fuel line.

To replace my corroded fuel lines, I bought a 25 foot coil of 5/16 steel fuel line and replaced both feed and return lines all the way from the tank to the fuel rails in the engine bay. I had about 15 inches left over. I hand formed the line and feed it from the rear cargo bay thru the opening in the floor a few feet at a time going from the rear gargo area to underneath the vehicle, routing and forming and pulling more tubing as I went. Much easier to do if you have a helper. I did mine alone.

I also had to redo the ground connection at the starter to the frame due to corrosion causing intermittent failure. At times, when I would turn the key the only result was dead silence. Other times, it would start just fine, then without any warning dead silence and I was stranded. After redoing the grounds, it works fine every time. My replacement starter is sitting on my garage shelf, glad I found the bad ground prior to ripping out a perfectly good starter.

Good luck with your ordeal.