Hi! Always wanted a D1 and now I have one...after years of turning wrenches one would think I'd be smart enough to not buy someone elses problem. Soooo here are my issues...
1) no spark or injector pulse:
I have solid battery voltage to all the pins in the coil connector...and just not even sure what to make of readings at injectors...definitely no switching going on...have the same voltage at ecm as i do at connectors
Tried: previous owner took to dealer...they put in a new ecm..i've tried both and get same results..i put a second new crank sensor in and i am getting a good signal at the ecm...checked grounds and fuses and looked at harness....what am i missing???
2) when I turn on the parking lights the wipers come on!
Tried: pulled fuse block and mcu..inspected both inside for obvious shorts..inspected wiring

I am getting a steady 8.8 volt signal to ecm from security...no spider fyi...

I've checked all the grounds i can find...just about know the electrical manual by heart and am wits end

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

 

The injectors get solid battery volts when key on, and the ECU grounds them individually to squirt fuel.

The CKP sensor can be installed where it will fit, but not generate the correct signal. It goes block+sensor+spacers+nuts. Since it is a D1, the CKP is triggered by tabs on the stamped reluctor disc flying by millimeters away. You can see these by removing the inspection plate. Don't want missing or bent teeth.

If CPU does not see CKP, it won't pulse injectors or make spark. Try to get spark first.

The signal to the ECU from the CKP is an AC voltage that varies in frequency, not sure how or what you are reading it with. Here are some pix and a few pages that may help on how the CKP works, in a D2 they have a drilled reluctor disc.

 

Ok so here is my question...i installed CKP after it had already been replaced by previous owner...i have a block, sensor, and two bolts...one longer as it goes through the cover...i am reading signal with a multimeter at the pin at ecm...no true reading..just know im seeing a rythmic switching in time with cranking..if spacers are after block and sensoe how will they affect distance from flywheel? And no damage to CKP so i know i'm not hitting...could i still be to close? Or not close enough...

 

It is just a coil of wire around a metal post. If spacing is wrong, the amplitude of the waveform is too low to trigger the ECU. Like you said, too close and tip gets bent. Too far away (spacers between block and sensor) and weak signal. Skinned and grounded harness is no good either.

How about fuse F3 satellite fuse panel 1? Should have plus battery to one side of each of the four coils. That connector (C1002) at the driver side rear of engine could have all coils unplugged. Coils get plus power, and ECU grounds them when it needs to.

 

I have a feeling spacers are my issue....i am good at c1002 and fuse is good...now the question...what am i going to do about missing spacers? No good yards close and google gave me zip...can i fabricate something? Is it ok mine has bolts instead of studs and nuts?
I really appreciate all the help! The electrics in these are definitely challenging from a first time rover wrencher perspective

 

Pix of what should have come off. Also, if you have changed ECU it may no longer talk to the green box alarm module and you could be immobiloized.

 

Ecu was programmed ar dealer and i have old one as well...both do same thing...i think its in the sensor...i don't have half of what's in ur pic...all i have is a sensor in a mount, two different length bolts and what is now confirmed as a broken cover..looks like i will be rounding up what i'm missing before i go any farther...thanks!!!

 

Just a quick update..Found a dealer able to just order me the spacers...of course i have to wait another couple days for them... tried to make my own but to no avail..
Just wanted to make sure thats gonna do it...all i have now is the sensor in the block it comes in and two bolts...then on thw engine i have nothing but 3 holes..one for the sensor and two foe the bolts...no mount and no studs or nuts...keep in mind this is a two wire sensor...is that all i need (once i add the spacers of course) ? Will it work without the cover?

Also does anyone know what my voltage signal should be fron the alarm to the gems? Constant or switching? No spider disco 1

 

Where are you located? I have a known good used sensor with the spacer required for the 4.0 GEMS engine with automatic transmission. Are you getting a check engine light with the key in the on position?

 

Northeast Ohio...No check engine light...no codes stored...i have 2 ecu both are flashed to this rover...alarm light on dash is doing what it should..i just have no spark or injector pulse

I understand the crank sensor...i do...i really really really do...what i am trying to find is a person, website or even a dealer that will get me a parts diagram of the crank sensor and all it's goodies for a 1999 discovery ONE...someone tore into this before i saw it so i have no idea if i'm missing something or not..

i appreciate all the feedback and pics...but a pile of parts in a cover only shows me i have bolts where i suld have studs..i have no nuts or spacers or covers..is there another mount on the engine i'm missing?..all i have is two bolts and the sensor in its winged mount and as of tomorrow two spacers that will actually make my bolts to short

I am going to put what i have together and if i still have no spark i'll go so far as to break the silly scope so i can see the strength of my signal...my fluke confirms i have switching...obviously switches to fast to get a good reading with a meter

Until then can someone please break down the voltage sgnal that cones from the alarm..is the voltage regulated?...is it a switching signal?...any help at all is very appreciated