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  #11  
Old 06-02-2012, 11:34 AM
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It went really easy, looks identical to the 100 amp that I replaced, and bolted right up in place; all electrical connectors were the same and it works like a champ.
Now to find a window motor, my driver's side just gave out so I swapped in the one from the passenger side rear. They're over a hundred bucks at the local car parts places. what the hell
 
  #12  
Old 10-08-2012, 09:55 PM
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How's it workin out after a few months? I had bought a used and had issues within a week, they replaced with a bad one, I pieced together one good one but its dead again, so either I swap around parts again or I was considering one of these.
 
  #13  
Old 10-09-2012, 11:16 AM
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It's still working great, no problems
 
  #14  
Old 10-09-2012, 11:48 AM
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Sometimes the local u-pull-da-part does not charge much and you learn how to not tear up the door on their carcass. But don't forget the dismantlers that post on here, they sort thru the scrap and save the good parts.
 
  #15  
Old 10-09-2012, 08:54 PM
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I think imma try this out too, no issues from the excess power?
 
  #16  
Old 10-09-2012, 09:01 PM
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The alt will only put out as much power as needed, no more.
The extra power will just charge trhe battery faster, like when winching or running tons of crap off the battery.
 
  #17  
Old 10-10-2012, 01:59 PM
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True. You think this is a good choice?
 
  #18  
Old 10-10-2012, 05:56 PM
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I bought a 120A RRC alt off of e-bay for my truck, brand new shipped for $145.
I would have probably bought this one had I remembered about it.
If you are in the market for a new alt I would def go bigger amps if you can.
 
  #19  
Old 10-10-2012, 08:24 PM
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One "problem" with a higher capacity unit is that you'll need to increase the 100 amp fuselink (D1) or 150 amp (D2) so you can draw those extra amps.
 
  #20  
Old 10-10-2012, 10:24 PM
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Thanks for the input, think imma just go with it, don't wanna screw around with used again.
 


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