Clink in reverse AFTER prob rebuild
#11
To convert to a u-joint it is going to cost you some $$$, around 400 of them to be more precise.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9300.cfm
Thats alot of rotoflex'ss'sss'ssses'.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/TVF100010G.cfm
Considering that they need replacing about every 90k or so depending on your lift height, if you have a lift of 3" or more you must switch to a u-joint.
The '97 and '98's came with 4 u-joints from the factory, so if you can find one of those at a salvage yard you can do the swap alot cheaper.
#16
I forgot the piece of - dust cover when installing the centering joint!
I was T.I.C.K.E.D. when I found it after I put everything back together. I thought about taking it all back apart but, sheesh that was a pain to get together.
I heard the reverse clink very shortly after the install...do you think the dust cover absence could have cause the joint to go bad that quick (a matter of days, no offroading at all)? The centering ball assy IS of course still sealed by a rubber boot where the two yokes come together.
Dangit, DiscoMike, why did you have to bring up the one legitimate worry in the back of my mind??
#17
I just believe a solid link is more reliable than a rubber buffer link.
If in your professional opinion it is wiser to just have a spare
roto, then by all means tell me that, I am always open to suggestions.
#20
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Good to know, I'll have to check the local yards here. There is one really good one that only does imports. I bought a starter from them for 35 bucks. I bought a good used rotoflex from Will Tillery at Roverguy.com at a pretty good price.
Anyone looking for used parts should keep Will in mind. The friend that referred me to him commented that Will knows more about my LandRover than I could ever hope to know and that is with him working under another one while talking to me on the phone. He is a great resource and good prices including shipping. I also got an exhaust manifold from him shipped same day I called him.