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Clink in reverse AFTER prob rebuild

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  #11  
Old 09-13-2010, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ColoDisco
How many people have had the rotoflex fail on these?
I am contimplating removing it and putting in a U joint.
They fail all the time so carry a spare.
To convert to a u-joint it is going to cost you some $$$, around 400 of them to be more precise.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9300.cfm

Thats alot of rotoflex'ss'sss'ssses'.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/TVF100010G.cfm

Considering that they need replacing about every 90k or so depending on your lift height, if you have a lift of 3" or more you must switch to a u-joint.

The '97 and '98's came with 4 u-joints from the factory, so if you can find one of those at a salvage yard you can do the swap alot cheaper.
 
  #12  
Old 09-13-2010, 08:57 PM
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My 97 has the rotoflex.
 
  #13  
Old 09-13-2010, 09:12 PM
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Is your truck advanced evap loss Danny?
 
  #14  
Old 09-13-2010, 09:36 PM
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I better pick one up. I will keep the one that is on there as a spare. Am only planning a 2" lift so the driveshaft will eventually be installed.
 
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ColoDisco
How many people have had the rotoflex fail on these?
I am contimplating removing it and putting in a U joint.
Why, just cause it is trendy?
They fail less the u-joints, will handle more angle, don't just fail and leave you stranded and only cost about $50 once every 100,000 miles.
 
  #16  
Old 09-14-2010, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
Did you also replace the centering ball? If not, that is your problem.
Yes I did. BUT I have a guilty secret.

I forgot the piece of - dust cover when installing the centering joint!

I was T.I.C.K.E.D. when I found it after I put everything back together. I thought about taking it all back apart but, sheesh that was a pain to get together.

I heard the reverse clink very shortly after the install...do you think the dust cover absence could have cause the joint to go bad that quick (a matter of days, no offroading at all)? The centering ball assy IS of course still sealed by a rubber boot where the two yokes come together.

Dangit, DiscoMike, why did you have to bring up the one legitimate worry in the back of my mind??
 
  #17  
Old 09-14-2010, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
Why, just cause it is trendy?
They fail less the u-joints, will handle more angle, don't just fail and leave you stranded and only cost about $50 once every 100,000 miles.
I don't do anything because it is "trendy"
I just believe a solid link is more reliable than a rubber buffer link.
If in your professional opinion it is wiser to just have a spare
roto, then by all means tell me that, I am always open to suggestions.
 
  #18  
Old 09-14-2010, 04:16 PM
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You can find a wrecked post AEL 97-98 Disco and get the driveshaft and pinion flange. Much cheaper than the kit... Direct swap.
 
  #19  
Old 09-15-2010, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
Is your truck advanced evap loss Danny?
No it is Pre-AEL.
 
  #20  
Old 09-15-2010, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by okdiscoguy
You can find a wrecked post AEL 97-98 Disco and get the driveshaft and pinion flange. Much cheaper than the kit... Direct swap.

Good to know, I'll have to check the local yards here. There is one really good one that only does imports. I bought a starter from them for 35 bucks. I bought a good used rotoflex from Will Tillery at Roverguy.com at a pretty good price.

Anyone looking for used parts should keep Will in mind. The friend that referred me to him commented that Will knows more about my LandRover than I could ever hope to know and that is with him working under another one while talking to me on the phone. He is a great resource and good prices including shipping. I also got an exhaust manifold from him shipped same day I called him.
 


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