Coolant Issue
 

I have an issue that I can't figure out for the life of me. I had a coolant leak and it ended up being the overflow reservoir. Tries to patch it, while the new one was on order (JB Weld) Patch held, just blew a new crack elsewhere in the tank. Finally got a new tank in and it works perfect, not a leak FINALLY a dry driveway, well other than the regular LR breadcrumbs. So today I am driving and it is warm, I turn on the AC which is amazing I can hang meat in the back it gets so cold. So I am driving with the AC on I get off the highway and I smell coolant. I pull over, pop the hood and sure enough I am blowing fluid out the cap from the reservoir. I wait till it stops open the lid and the fluid is halfway up the indicator post in the tank. I top it off to where it is supposed to be and drive further. Again it bleeds down to the halfway mark and stops. The Engine never overheats and stays about the 8:30 position and runs great!

Soooo is this a case of the patient saying "It Hurts when I do this" and the Doc says "So don't do that!" or is there something wrong.

Great Guru's of the LR FOrum please advise!
And thanks in advance

do you have a reader to hook up and read your actual temp.. From what I have learned (which is not much) your gauge in the car will only go above the 9 position when are already overheating... I am going through the same problem you are unfortunately I have no money to throw at my truck at the moment so I have it parked for now.. If it is coming out the cap did you replace the cap? or is it the same one from your old tank. If its the cap it may be as simple as replacing the cap... Let me suggest what was suggested to me, do a coolant pressure test that can be obtained for free(you have to pay a deposit that is refunded upon return of the equipment) at and autozone or advanced or such and you can test the cap with this as well as the capability of the entire system to hold pressure. When you replaced the tank did you drain and fill the coolant system? If not you could have air in the system.. DO you hear a waterfall sound coming from behind the firewall of the passenger side? I am by no means an expert but having a similar issue these are the things you need to check first from my understanding..



OH by the way put your trucks year make and mileage in your signature it helps

No, I don't have a meter other than the gauge. I looked at the meter that everyone here talks about but they are all on backorder so I am still waiting.

The cap is the old one from the broken tank but what I thought was interesting is that it is designed to release pressure and it seems to be working or at least I thought it was working correctly. Maybe it is worth trying a new one. I really do want to get one of the meters so if anyone has a line on one that is in stock let me know.
Thanks

do you have a smartphone? if so you dont need to get an ultragauge, there is a cheaper solution if you don't want to wait.. I went on amazon and bought an ELM 327 bluetooth adapter 22 dollars with shipping, this allows you to connect your smartphone or tablet or whatever to your trucks ECU. Android has an app called torque(not sure about iphone) which costs 5 dollars and it does everything (IMO) that the ultragauge does, but with a little lag, not sure if you get the same with ultragauge aas I have never owned one, but for less than half the cost it is more than what you need to monitor engine temps and MPG and almost anything else you can think of. Just a suggestion, most people here swear by the ultragauge and if you are deadset then by all means go that route, I am totally satisfied with the route I took and it has served me well. here is a link for the adapter and a link for the app.. Good luck to you

http://www.amazon.com/Soliport-Bluet...5927840&sr=8-2
http://torque-bhp.com/

Great heads up with on the smartphone idea. I do have an iPhone and I looked at the Bluetooth model but it says its not iPhone compatible. Anyone know of a gauge for an iPhone?

I found this if it helps

"I bought this to connect to my 2008 Escalade and used dash commander on my IPhone 4 and IPad two. I connected it and thought it didn't work as a lot of people said here. Then I tried it with my computer and it worked right away. After googling a little, Apple, which restricts EVERYTHING, will only le their devices connect to Bluetooth items in which they certify. Fortunately I have both items jail broken and there is an app on Cydia called RoqyBT which costs $6 and allows the iPhone t connect without an issue.

The device now works great with my iPhone and iPad."

just a random review I found on amazon so do a little research before voiding the warranty on your iphone... lol

You do need to carefully monitor those operating temps so you don't toast the motor. They cannot take repeated or extensive overheating.

Worth a review of the humble owner's guide and workshop manual:

qualified assistance before continuing.

And from the shop manual:

When the engine is over heating the temperature gauge will display in the high temperature band. If the engine coolant temperature gauge receives no input or the input is out of range the temperature gauge will read cold and the high coolant temperature warning lamp will be illuminated.

I would take the Roverspeak as "precise" - Normal range of temps will be displayed as a centered pointer. I can't say what "normal" is to their ECU programmer, but assume "X" to "Y" degree range. When it gets to "Y" plus 2 degrees, that pointer is supposed to move above mid point, anything above midpoint is the overheating area. By the owners manual, this is moving toward red segment and coolant is becoming too hot (yep, it already exceeds what was reasonable and proper for the entire global range of operations for the vehicle, so it would be too hot even for the Sahara).

So if it moves above mid point, find out why pronto. Not next Saturday. And if you get a slice of red, don't keep driving in traffic until you reach the next exit, or the home garage. This is not your dad's Oldsmobile with iron heads and block, and a temp guage that moves in complete anaolog fashion, so you can see that it is running warmer today, etc. Don't be lulled into inaction by the steady temp gauge. And if you can afford it, get something that will read the data at the OBDII port and display it to you, and others who drive the truck. And a reminder alarm when it gets above "Y" degrees would be very handy.

A lot of D2 owners think they are just fine because gauge never moves. But in reality they could be a lot hotter than they know, and running at maximum possible temp for 50,000 miles is not doing anything any favors, except the repair departments. Rover built the gauges to inspire confidence and avoid petty service calls from nervous Nick and Nellie. Heck, we don't even need an oil pressure guage, and for certain years, they considered CDL beyond the capacity of the average driver.

D1 owners are in a little better case, their gauge moves, but it is also designed to average and respond very slowly. Above mid-point is certainly also suspect. See pix.

Rant over.

OK ordered a new cap today and was looking at a few of the gauges for the iPhone at lunch. Thanks for the info guys, If anyone thinks of anything else I should know or has more ideas I am open to hear them. Thanks!

Yeah, I have a few ideas besides pressure testing cooling system. If it passes then replace fan clutch, thermostat and rod radiator. If it doesn't pass, replace fan clutch, thermostat, rod radiator and order new head gaskets and top end gasket kit. Line up a good machine shop to resurface heads.

Notice I didn't mention replacing the expansion tank cap.