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-   -   Disco started, then immediately stalled. Hum. (https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-i-39/disco-started-then-immediately-stalled-hum-49598/)

Jeremiahbullrog 05-09-2012 04:26 PM

Disco started, then immediately stalled. Hum.
 
98 Disco, 170km (105k miles), no mods.

Engine runs great usually, starts right up no problems. Drove to get hair cut yesterday, went to start it again after. Started up, then gurgled and stalled. Tried again, same thing. It started 5-6x. I tried putting my foot onto the gas when it started, prolonged the gurgle for 2 or so seconds, nothing, but it still died. Now, won't start. Had to get it (flatbed) towed home 9km. Ouch. There is no pressure at the rail. I am led to believe it wasn't sensor failure such as CKP as it did start up a number of times and died shortly after. I guess three possible solutions. Clogged line or fuel filter, which I know the fuel filter is quite old and more then likely an issue, but it would still run, even badly.

Therefore it is either a power to fuel pump issue, or the fuel pump itself. Or many other small number of things. I have to pull out the fuel pump tonight to have a look at it. Going to try and find a volt-meter to test power at the pump. Could possibly the fuel pump relay? Is there any way to test this? When I have the key in the II position I hear nothing from the back of the truck, would you hear the pump running normally?

Are there any cheaper options then the 399$ change out of the whole pump/sender unit if that is the problem?

Sorry for so many questions. Thanks guys.

Danny Lee 97 Disco 05-09-2012 04:59 PM

If I may offer a few suggestions, get a screw on fuel pressure guage and see what you have at the rail. Pull the cover at the pump and do a visual. Switck key on with the cover off and see if the pump runs.

Pull the pump and see if the internal hose connections are good. That will tell you a lot more than you currently know and guide you in the decision.

Spike555 05-09-2012 07:43 PM

Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me.
$400 is cheap for a advanced evaporative loss truck, here in the US they are $600.
Start with the fuel filter, it is the cheapest place to start other than checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

Savannah Buzz 05-09-2012 09:25 PM

Also, if MAF is unplugged, it will start, but die at once before it even gets to idle speed.

Jeremiahbullrog 05-10-2012 04:45 PM

Hey guys, sometimes I think its better to be lucky then smart! I read through the schematic diagrams for the power getting to the fuel pump. First I tried resetting the inertia sensor. It felt like it 'popped' back into place, if that makes any sense. Held it for 5 seconds with the key in II position. Didn't seem to have any effect on the situation. Went to the back of the truck, pulled up the carpet and foam. The cover plate has appeared to have already been openned once, and one bolt was left on so it just moved around it to open. Pulled off the fuel pump and gauge plugs. Tried to test with a volt meter, but the tip was too large to slip into the slot. Ended up cleaning the contacts and pushing it back on. Turned the key to II again, heard a 3 second whine, and then it stopped. Went to check the pressure on the fuel rail, good thing I was standing back, fuel geyser! Grinned... went around, started the truck. Started first crank! Let it run for 10 minutes and drove it around the block. Have shut it off and started it several times since then. Touch down arms, knees to ground.. YESS. haha

Seems to have fixed it for now. Going to continue on with the maintenance, ordered up a fuel/air filter, new serp belt, and gotta get going on the fan clutch. Thanks guys!

Danny Lee 97 Disco 05-10-2012 06:28 PM

It was most likely the inertia switch then, since it interupts power to the fuel pump if it senses a problem like a rollover.

G Reeves 05-10-2012 07:38 PM

Always the simplest of things that can go wrong as some on here will testify..... No names maentioned:D

rockyblue123 05-15-2012 06:10 AM

I had similar problem. Would start every morning, after reached normal operating temperature, would die. I initially thought it was a weak fuel pump. I replaced it and had same problem. Then replaced Crank sensor, now It runs, starts every time. Good luck !

ToddD 05-15-2012 12:31 PM

If you figure out it's the pump you can replace only the pump and not the entire housing. It's way cheaper. I think I spent $60.00 last time around. I never have issues with the housings, just the pumps croak and the housings always look great.
Good luck, let us know what you find.


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