fuel line leak
 

1998 Disco 1 172k miles
smell of gas and could see bottom of gas tank was wet in one corner
Pulled the fuel pump access cover and when cycling the key I can see very small leak on the left hose ~5 inches from the pump(in picture)
Obviously need to replace the hose
The fitting is very corroded as you can see
Where should I buy and any words of wisdom (or posts with good pictures) in regards to replacing the fuel line?
Yes I will reference my RAVE manual..

Talk to Dannylee, he replaced all of his fuel line, you can buy it by the roll at NAPA.

You're going to need more than fuel line. You'll need a new fuel pump or at least the fuel pump housing(white plastic). Those curved fittings are molded into the housing and pretty much non-repairable.
After you source a new fuel pump/assembly, talk to PT and ask him about his fuel pump fittings. He sells compression fittings that fit right onto the curved pieces and can be spliced right into the existing rubber hoses.

soak them with PB Blaster and carefully remove them....and 2x on the NAPA stuff....I got mine there too.....they can make you pretty much any line or connection you want, and nows a good time to move the fuel filter to a more accessible location under the truck...away from the rear wheel

The connection at the fuel pump is soaking in PB blaster and the RAVE manual calls them metal quickfits. The leak is not there it is 5" up the hose at what looks like a transition to rubber. Do the fittings turn or push to disconnect...

When u buy your new quickconnects there will be a tool that slips into them and releases the prongs holding them on

I agree with Fish, your fuel pump housing is toast, even worse than mine was.

I had multiple conditions on mine also. Nobody sells just the top of the housing, so you will need to replace the entire fuel pump assembly. The 98 is the AEL version which is most expensive.

<y fuel lines were also ceverely corroded and sprung leaks, as was my fuel filter.

You need to get underneath with a good light and take a close look at the steel lines. Lift them from the clamps and see how solid they are. Mine were like swiss cheese.

A 25 foot coil of 5/16 inch steel fuel line will take care of both the feed and return lines. If you find my earlier postings about the fuel line there are pics there.

I basically started at the point you have pictured and hand feed a few feet of tubing at a time, crawled under and pulled a little more, forming as I went. I rerouted ot straight forward over the large round frame member underneath then turned outboard to the boxed frame then turned forward toward the engine.

I positioned the fuel filter in a good spot along the upper side of the boxed frame, used fuel rated rubber ose slid up on te filter neck, clamped ot with fuel injection rated clamps due to the op pressure, another short piece of hose, more tubing then hand formed another bend into the engine bay and clampedx to the existing rubber at the fuel rail.

A helper would simplify the job if you do need to replace the entire line. Otherwise, a lot of up and down from the rear cargp area and back underneath. O lost about 20 pounds and a few inches of waistline just getting up and down about 250 times or so.

Thanks all. I was able to seperate the fitting from the pump. The "easy" side at the fuel filter was a no go.
It might as well been welded. Just moving it around while attempting to wrench it sprung a leak in a clamp area of the line closest to filter. Coiled tubing it is. Danny Lee where did you get the fittings for the pump connection and did you use the stock filter? Also did you just cut and rip out the old lines with the fuel tank in place or just leave it?

I did remove the old decayed lines and fuel filter.

You are going to need a new fuel pump assembly as well since those curved plastic sections that are fractured will not hold the pressure.

If you were to look at ot with the pump running you would have fuel bubbling out there as well.

The replacement pump assembly I bought had straight pipe that you would use an olive and an adapter to screw on to new lines, but since I was using straight tubing as well, I merely clamped a short piece of fuel rated rubber tubing to join the new lines to the new pump lines.

Bite the bullet and get a new fuel pump assembly so that6 you replace it all at one time. A generic filter with straight lines using rubber tubing and the high pressure style clamps join all those points together,

You can buy plastic cable ties and the blocks used to mount them at Lowe's. Mount the blocks where you need them on the frame and use the cable ties as clamps to secure the tubing and filter to the frame.

That is what I reccomend.

Get PT Schram's fittings. You cut the rubber line where it meets the rusty push on fitting. Slip in the new Compression to ****** fitting and secure with a fuel line clamp. Slip the other end over the curved piece coming out the top of the pump and tighten down the collar. Easy peasy.
I also replaced my fuel filter with a generic ****** ended one from NAPA. Again, I cut the rubber line right where it meets the metal fittings. Slip in the double ****** ended filter and tighten the fuel line clamps. Easy.

Parts you need:
-New or in good shape fuel pump housing.
-New fuel pump if going the cheap b*stard route, Airtex something
-New locking ring AEL
-New sealing ring AEL
-Pt's fittings
-4to6 fuel line hose clamps
-****** end fuel filter from NAPA