Update: I pulled the connectors off the CDL switch and shorting them together lights the CDL dash light so it is OK. Looks like the pivot stud on the CDL linkage might be adjustable, but the linkage would have to be removed to turn the stud. On to other things.

 

I posted an update Yesterday but it didn't show up - Perhaps because I said D__n Yahoos?

Anyway after finding in the archives how to get the shifter **** off, removing the surround, drilling out the shifter plate pop rivets, and moving the shifter out of the way, I discovered that the Yahoos who removed the T-case had apparently dropped it from underneath without disconnecting anything and had then cut off the wires to the solenoid and position switch flush with the wiring harness. They didn't even TRY to hook them back up. Yahoos!

I was able to solder wires back onto the solenoid connector stubs and attempted to solder wires onto the the position switch stubs; the solenoid works, but the position switch leads remain open in any plunger position. Someone must have by-passed the key interlock because of the open position switch so the key can be removed in any T-case or Trans shifter position.

So...I opened up the harness and rewired the solenoid and position switch (had to put it back to fill the hole anyhow) and I can now shift from hi to lo, (Trans neutral - key on) but still no CDL. I need to back out the CDL switch as Tom suggested and see if that lets it go in. I just hope the Yahoos didn't screw up the inside of the T-case too. Anyone know what size the CDL switch hex is?

BTW, the shifter plate is not that hard to remove and having it out gives good access to the solenoid and position switch without cutting into the tunnel; working on the wiring harness would have been a real B with it in the way, too. I'll put it back on with U-clips and sheet metal screws just in case the solenoid ever fails. Guess there's really no need for a working position switch as long as the key comes out - just have to remember not to leave the T-case in neutral.

One other Question; where's the T-case level plug?

 

OK, Tom nailed my CDL problem when He said the CDL switch might be screwed in too far - It was. I removed the switch with an 11/16 socket from above which was a BIG MISTAKE because while the locking nut is 11/16, the switch body is 9/16 and the connecting spades are wider than that and using a socket bent the spades big time. I should have used a crowfoot. The switch may have already been bad, but after straightening the spades, freeing the plunger, and spraying the inside with contact cleaner and WD40 it still doesn't make contact so it is definitely bad now.

After removing the switch I jacked up a rear wheel again to check and the center diff is definitely locking now; I just don't have the little light to confirm it. I put a short 3/8" bolt in the switch hole until I can get another switch; this must be the one darn thing on the truck that is not metric.

So, I have the hi/lo and the CDL finally working. Now I just have to clean things up, find some tiny little metric screws for the missing 3 in the underside of the shifter surround, order a new switch, and put it all back together.


Thanks, Tom, for the CDL suggestion , but no thanks to the ignorant Yahoos who screwed it all up.

 

If under the truck engine off, have someone move move the cdl back /forth you can hear the diff lock unlock, clunk clunk

Remember this when you screw in the new switch, if in too far CDL will not work or will lock but not unlock

 

I heard a clunk from the top before, but it was apparently the linkage hitting the switch. Now it clunks and the shifter hits the side of the shift box - going farther than it did before - so I think it is OK.

I ordered a new switch from AB last night. I assume it closes when the plunger is pushed up so I planned on having the CDL locked and to screw the switch in by hand until it stops and then back off a little and see if it is still closed. I definitely won't use a socket this time but I think a crowfoot from the top on the locking nut will work. I also ordered the clevis pin clip that is missing from the top CDL link; $3.50 seems like a lot for the clip but $20 for the switch is not bad so it evens out.

I saw the photo of the T-box drain plug location in the archives, so checking its level is next and perhaps a drain and refill with 75W-140 synthetic for good measure. Is that oil recommended for the differentials too?

 

Think it 80/90 is spec , I use 75/140 royal purple take up some of the slop in summer, the heavy oil can be real heavy in very cold winter, diffs and case

Need to put sealer or something on the t case switch threads it will leak bad, mine did

 

I'm not sure if you will be able to reach the solenoid from the hole under the shifter, the solenoid is about 10 to 12 inches directly behind the front drive shaft flange. I can take a picture of it for you if you would like, I have one exposed in my buggy build. The housing for the solenoid has a square flange about two inches across and in the middle of the flange is a cylindrical outcrop with four bolts securing it. The solenoid slides out of the housing easily, I did it on mine, now I don't have to put in neutral to lock the differential. It may be easier, maybe a little more time consuming, to remove the transfer case mounts and the crossbar under the tranny to lower the t-case for access. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the photo offer, James (Would that be James T. Kirk?)

Yes I could see and reach the solenoid with the shifter plate removed. Turned out mine was OK but the idiots who worked on the transfer case before I got it had cut the wiring to it at the harness and ripped the wires out of the position switch. I rewired it and it is working now.