I did the head gaskets and pulled the starter to rebuild it.

I called another shop, They said for 90 bucks they will tell me why obd2 inst working.

No shops in my area have test book. They all have autologic....

Maybe Okdisco or Spike can correct me if I am wrong but I have been told that testbook is the actual name of the dealer software. I don't want to steer you wrong but that is what they call it around here.

You are correct. Testbook is dealer proprietary. Autologic, Rovacom, and T4 are all aftermarket versions

To the OP, when you did the head gaskets, if you moved the tps or IACV, it will need to be reset. Something may have been shorted to the ECU, although not common to happen. I would take the other ECU with you and let them take a look. Where are you and what shop are you taking it to? We have 2 great shops I would trust with a diagnosis of this kind, but there are some losers out there.

I am going to take it to a shop and have them diag the OBD. I feel like if I could get that working I would be in the right direction.

The RPMs Idle at 1300 then after 10-30 seconds fall to the correct 750. WTF. Its always different.

Ok, The shop cant take it till tomorrow. SO I am going to give it one last attempt. Any ideas, Please toss any anything you can think of.

Haha finally somebody knows what Imgoing through. Though mine seems to be partially related to temperature. Every COLd start I get 2100.. Warm starts 13-1500

It seems to vary with temp.

If i just got obd to work....

I would be a lot less lost.

That means it is working right. Cold idle is higher than warm.

Im empty! All I can say is if the dealer wantsmore than it's worth it may not be worth much and unplugging the iacv whould be perfectly fine.

no cigar for you...:cool:

.... The Idle air control valve is self-resetting. Each time you turn off the ignition... when you "cut" the voltage to the ECU, the unit sends out a signal to the stepper motor to wind it fully backwards and allow maximum air into the plenum chamber. You should hear a buzz from the stepper motor as the engine dies. As the ignition voltage is "cut", the engine simply stops with the stepper motor in maximum air position.

I am in California and have smog approaching soon

Should work that way, but it doesn't. If you don't believe me, go pull your IACV and mess with the plunger. Having a 95, it may be different, but 90% of people on here that have replaced their IACV have had to go to the dealer to have it reset.

PS, I don't smoke..

I am unable to find a shop I trust in the bay area, I have called 15 shops, 4 said to take it to the dealer.

NO smokin'!
 

ok then... no ice cream for you. :)

Please don't think I was being nasty with you... text is so easily misunderstood.

As for the IACV... I've had them out many times from various model years. Mostly for cleaning / lubing and I'm fairly familiar with them. When you pull it out and completely / securely blank off the hole in the plenum (at idle rmps) you should be able to switch off the engine and cause the cone plunger shaft to withdraw fully into the motor housing. If this is not happening the plunger itself may need lubrication or it could just simply be dead, the ECU could be bad or you have a bad connection between the plug and the ECU in the harness. Nothing else beside the ECU controls the IACV after the engine is switched off.

So, all I am saying is, if the ECU getting reset by a stealership cures the problem then it was not the IACV at fault... t'was the ECU.

I am unable to find a shop I trust in the bay area, I have called 15 shops, 4 said to take it to the dealer.

I understand what you are saying, and you can take them out and watch the plunger move. All I am saying is that if you move that plunger yourself, the ECU will not read it right. It thinks it is in a certain position, and it is somewhere else. Same with the TPS. It is always programming the ECU to calibrate for the new part. You can take them off and clean them, but move one from another truck and it will idle funny until the values have been set in the ECU.

I didn't take your post as crappy...I also do not advocate taking it in for anything. But no comms with the ECU via OBD2 port needs a hands on tech IMHO..

Still doesn't solve the OP's problem, though.

To the OP, does your anti-lock light come on? Just to check ECU comms another way, ground pins 5 and 15 to do the ABS blink code test. There is a full write up for it in the tech section.

I don't see what smog has to do with anything, unless it's setting your cel off. Mine hardly comes on and when it does I just clear it. Just got my inspection done this weekend

They check both of the following here in California,

1. Steady idle
2. OBD communications.

Update:

I am going to try a new plan of attack.
I am going to hook up a temp OBD 2 wire. I am only going to wire Power, Ground and the 2 wires directly to the ecu. Fresh wire means no chance of anything else interfering.

Any one have any ideas?

I am also going to recheck all my fuses for the millionth time.

Any other ideas?

Sorry for not answering your call last night I was doing a range rovers brakes.

Don't know why I forgot of course they test your obd my bad.

Did you try the ABS blink test?

Pin 8 - alarm
Pin 16 - fuse 3
Pin 13 - airbag
Pin 4 - ground
Pin 5 - ground
Pin 7 - ECU with lead to ABS
Pin 15 - ECU With lead to ABS


You could be onto something here. The comm leads also have jumpers that go to the ABS ECU. They show to be the same color going to pins 13&14 of connector C2084 of the ABS ECU. Try the blink test to see if you can access the ABS ECU.

I think the blink test works, I was checking all the wiring and the ABS light started to blink :DOH:. So I think connection to the ABS brain is ok. Any other ideas? should I still try a direct wire? I have a extra ecu. I tired it but the car wont start with it. I imagine it has to do with the alarm brain.

This truck has to many brains for its own good.

I thought I would post this for a reminder of why I am still trying. This truck is a blast even with stock suspension.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...r/IMG_2343.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...r/IMG_2403.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...r/IMG_2407.jpg

When you replaced the ECU, did you try to read it with the scanner? Plug it in and see if it will read. I know it won't start, but if it reads, you can swap ecu's at the shop and have everything re-programmed then.

I believe we tried with no luck to read the new ecu...

sounds like jumpers it is.....

Can I just wire the ecu and power and ground and eliminate the abs for my test?

I hooked up the other ecu and with it plugged in the CEL dose not illuminate at all. Any ideas?

Also my direct wiring helped nothing still no read with my old ECU, So it must be the ecu...

You know I think at this point I would just install the new ECU and take it to someone with testbook (not autologic) and have everything reset and go from there. But hopefully OKdiscoguy can get this worked out for you. He seems like a pretty sharp guy.

Yes the new ecu has to be programmer to the vehicle and no check engine light is normal

Nobody in my area has a test book. So I am unsure of what to do. Can i get the alarm module from the car I got the ecu from... I hate to spend more money, But I am out of ideas.

I unplugged a after cat O2 sensor and I unpluged my maf, Neither triped the CEL. So I think somethign is seriously up with my ecu. Dose this make sense?

Funny I have similar issues.

I'd have to run with my iacv or maf unplugged for a while before it gets a cel.

Try fuel temp sensor?

If i got the alarm module would the ecu work without programing.

Good question.

It may!? Let me know if you try it I might copy you.

Man, I do not want to spend more money for a possible fix...

If no one has testbook you may have to cough up the money for the stealership to reprogram the new ECU and get everything running. I think that would fix this all but that is just an educated guess and you may come out on the losing end. I understand tight money situations. Sorry about your rock and a hard place situation. I personally don't see any other options at this point but I am not an expert. Good luck.

Man I hate to say it but it is sounding like that old Rock Ballard " Another One Bites The Dust". Would it be possible to yank all that stuff out and come up with a simplified system like the older vehicles had prior to all the sensors and controllers?

The LR propritary test book, is that software or does it require a special computer as well?

Shame you can't replace the ECU with a modern controller like the BullyDog you hear so much about for the new diesel pickup trucks. PowerBlock and those other shows rave about those things.