Headgasket quality questions
 

Hey there ! Recently blew white smoke after climbing large mountain in Oregon while pulling trailer.....K-seal was added to the coolant and truck has since passed exhaust gas test......no water in oil no apparent external leaking:)

My questions - I am on the opposite side of the country from home.....so

#1 has anyone used this "permanent repair" last for 2000+ miles while towing?
or think that I should be able to make it home with this repair?:confused:

and #2 what does anyone think of the options for headgasket kits from BP
Head Gasket Set for Land Rover Discovery 1 V8 - BPWBKT6, BPWBKT7, STC4082 - 1996

Bp aftermarket....bp oe.....allmakes....and rienz

I think the first two include the bolts second two do not....and would have to be ordered separate

There is quite a price difference is it all in the name or tangible.....?

my thought is either to give it a go as is ......have the parts with me just in case.....or do it right now before heading back to florida....

any suggestions of further tests to do advise greatly appreciated!!:D

I recently purchased the BPWBKT6 kit (I even live in Oregon) for my 97. It's the cheapest way to get everything you need, and is the same or better quality. According to the BP guy, it's the one everyone else buys too.

by exhaust gas test do you mean no white smoke visible - or did you run the combustion gas in coolant chemical test from an auto parts store?

A chem test now might require rad flush and refill? Since old exhaust gas might be in there... and you would drop some of the K Seal..

Do you have ability to pick up a scanner that can read data? You could plug that in and monitor coolant temp in real time more accuartely than with guage. Monitor closely, have gasket set and new bolts just in case.

More ideas if I was stuck like you are:

1. Get a scanner that can read live data - you'll know more exactly if things are headed up. Buy from chain store, return if not needed when you get home.

2. Add water wetter or purple ice to coolant.

3. Carry several cases of bottled water as back up. Keep coolant topped up, don't want steam coming out of gasket and erosion of block. CArry 50/50 premix also.

4. Consider changing stat to 180 or even 160. Be sure new stat has a small vent hole or jiggle device to allow air bubbles to pass.

5. If not bubbles gurgling through heater pipes this is a good thing.

6. Change oil to 20W50, so if you overheat you'll have a tiny bit of wiggle room before lubrication failure sets in.

7. Clean junk from between condesner and main radiator (leaves, etc.)

8. If you can stand it, run with out AC. For a cooling boost, unplug wires to AC compressor clutch. Then when you turn on AC, no heat produced by condenser, but electric fans come on and boost cooling on hills, etc.

9. Consider fan swap, this one is a 2001 Chevy Blazer, cut down slightly with snips, used their clutch also, was less than $20 at junk yard. Moves more air, seems to make 6 - 10 degrees difference. Screws right on to the water pump.

thanks so much for all the great info...

Yes I did the chemical /color change test..15 mins after k-seal turned from blue to green......next day no color change at all

I have swapped out the coolant since the k-seal (had bad smell and mustard color) and have put about 150 miles on since ......in fact drove farther north on the 5 coming over several passes...to get from Ashland to Canyonville area where I could work on if needed, and get parts shipped to me here ....so far so good have not noticed any coolant loss...have red line have not added yet...

Will be doing oil /filter swap tomorrow - because its time and also want to double check that there is absolutely no water in the oil

I drive with obd bluetooth dongle running to torque program on my dell streak temp has stayed normal so far :)

havent run ac this whole trip... but just replaced one ac elec fan motor ....noticed failure on the way here...as I was overheating and it never came on....also have disconnected the heater core due to a leak that was causing overheat (gurgling under dash) so I just have a U tube installed....

questions?
Savannah....I am routing back to florida through Vail....is the 20-50 too thick for the cold there? I had planned on putting in 5-40synthetic .....?

also please advise where would i unplug the compresser ? this sounds like a great idea.....thinking of replacing other fan because i noticed the new fan spins as soon as the car is turned on due to air from cooling fan? I think? while the other one does not move unless ac is on also this other fan was replaced by previous owner and is not correct in any way....it is zipped tie in and has fewer blades etc....


Eric.....did you install your kit yet? If so how long ago ? the quality seemed good to you ?? this would be my first headgasket adventure...I am nervous and ocd... would prefer to do at home where if something went wrong ....at least i am home:) but I have been offered garage space here..available....and am wondering if I should bite the bullet or risk breaking down in vail....freezing butt on side of mountain:) ....where are you at in oregon??

Anyone else out there have any experiences with the different kits ....anyone seen them next to each other??

Again thanks so much!!

yes I am going to freeze in vail...without heat:) but with everything else going on I have sort of abandoned the idea of pulling the core right now....or even getting to the o rings to see if its that simple....I have been worried about losing the ability to....dissipate heat through the heater...should I be? or will the Ac fans take place of this....If I disconnect compressor?

1. The gurgling under dash may not be the core leaking, it was combustion gas in coolant making its way through the system, or air from a previous coolant refill. You can purge a lot of that by putting the right front corner up hill, remove rad top plug (careful if still old plastic) and run with coolant cap off, squeeze upper hose, and keep filling until bubbles have a place to escape. The gurgle under the dash is a built in Rover designed free diagnostic tool. If you must run bypassed, be sure in/out tubes on top of right valve cover are linked together with a "U" of hose and clamps, not butt ended. In a panic overheat situation the heater core provides a little extra cooling that can be brought on line. In a D2, not so much, as coolant always runs thru the core.

5W40 OK in cold, but only speced for up to 95 degrees, 10W40 is 14 F to past 100F, 15W and 20 W are speced for above 32F. . But having a limping head gasket, you must be planning on a torture test through the mountains.... Maybe once you are past the Rockies oil change again to higher stuff?

AC compressor has plug right beside it, see attached from RAVE. When you look at your own RAVE, you can make a copy on a USB drive and have RAVE on a stick in the glove compartment. On a D1, cooling fans come on wth AC on, when temp above 212F, or when coolant temp and fuel temp exceed certain range (then it will run for 8 minutes to cool off engine bay).

Savannah....thanks for the pics!! I actually carry the rave on my phones sd card and on my laptop ....sometimes tho it takes me an eon to find something im trying to find.....so much to look at !! So thanks :)

about the core...there was alot of wetness on my passenger floor...which has since dried....so fairly certain of the leak....unless there is a purge in there? I had just changed the coolant and hoses 1 week before...gurgling started...then I realized that my floor had been wet for quite sometime!! I travel with 2 german shepherds and kept thinking they were spilling their water!!....so i started putting it in the back but the floor never dried and then the gurgling started as I was climbing mountains outside vegas and temp would climb gradually found the floor to be very warm and wet... ... installed u tube and new ac fan ...and has been no overheating since except when I noticed the white smoke and slight temp rise in oregon...I suppose its possible I caused the heater core o rings to slip or blow by not getting the air out after coolant / hose change huh? I may just go for a look while im awaiting my kit to arrive :) give me something to do ...and I sure would enjoy that heat :)

thanks so much for oil info I did not know the specs ....very interesting indeed:) very useful for sure!

I have ordered the kit to take with me and ...also ordered o2 sensor which is the only code i have right now :)

You may be in luck. I think on the D1 there are O rings on AC part of system, but not on heater core. see attached. might just need new clamps, and of course duct tape (lol). not sure where the actual valve on your year that shunts water away from core, that may need attention as well.

If headed thru Colorado watch for the Disco Mike road rescue team...

There is an old saying that you get what you pay for and in this day of parts coming from China, especially head bolts, you would be wise to bury 1st. quality parts or even go with German made gaskets and bolts so you don't toast your engine months after installing a crap set.
Make sure to flush out all your stop leak including the radiator.
As for making that trip, that is a role of the dices with the odds against you because of the long hours of heat and pressure while on the road, I wouldn't do it cause there is nothing worse then braking down out on the road without a good shop.

Hard enough to do HG your self under your own shade tree, on the side of the highway in an early blizzard brings new challenges.