Headlight Switch Replacement
 

I have a 99 DI and whenever I turn my headlights the actual headlights work however the interior dash lights then go dark and there is nothing, from this I am thinking I need to replace the headlight stick which sucks but thats the way it is. So my questions are 1. How do I actually get it out of there to replace it? and 2. Do you guys have any other thoughts of what it could be? and its not a fuse or anything like that I have checked all of those.

Thanks

Pop the column cover off, (screws underneath), turn the wheel 90deg left, exposing two screws holding switch in.

I slid my knife under the plastic where the screws go, as it kinda' snaps in.

Same knife released the clips for the electrical connectors.

Clear a 3x3' area (clean) and you can disassemble the switch - PAY ATTENTION to the little parts, (digital camera might help)

You'll probably find the old grease inside turned to poo, as the contacts are pure copper.

I''d cleaned mine twice in a year, the third time I melted some 90/10 solder to contacts as they were worn, been good for two years.

luck,greg

I had the exact same problem with mine the first night I drove it! I bought it during the day and didn't think to check the lights. anyways I tried cleaning the switch and it got better but was still no where near good enough to make me comfortable so I threw a relay in between the headlights and the dash lights, only had a problem with it once when I turned on the high beams, I don't use the high beams so its all good, but if I did, a diode would fix that problem!

thanks for the replies guys.. bad news though I tried doing what both of you guys said cleaned it didn't work and now I had a new one that I bought used tried to switch that out it didn't work either. The problem is whenever I turn on my headlights the interior dash lights go out and don't turn on and also my back right tail light is out as well, any thoughts are welcome I am not for sure where to go next? Thanks

the problem in the back is most likely a ground, so here is a question- if you turn the headlights on, what happens if you then continue to turn the switch forward (this will be past the last point) it will feel like you are going to break it but as long as you are careful and don't overdue it you should be fine. The reason I suggested the relay is because if the problem is in the wiring the relay would resolve that too. if you want to try the relay let me know and I will look at the schematics to see how I wired it.

Replaced mine... TWICE.

Finally learned it's the harness that plugs into it that is shorting out, killing the switch. Look for one of the wires in the connector all cooked up. Mine was obvious. Anyway... I ended up pinching the female connector (on the inside, the metal) down so it makes a secure contact. I'm sure it will loosen again over time, and I'll just clamp her down again.

Cheaper than replacing that damn blinker/headlight switch everytime.

That may/may not be your issue. Figured it couldn't hurt to let you know to look there.

Justin

I think this may be similar to the problem I was having as well

headlight switch cleaning
 

Refreshing the thread. My 97 SE7 Discovery 1 experienced intermittent interior/running lights, finally my wife could only get headlights or interior/running, not both. Directions earlier in the thread are spot on for removal. Disassembly of switch mechanism is pretty straight forward, 4 screws (keep track of shorter and longer position), plastic snaps hold end caps in place so small flat blade screw driver user to disengage those, just go slow so don't break plastic, sliding parts come out for easier cleaning just be sure to put them back in the right orientation. I used rubbing alcohol and 600 grit sand paper to clean all the contacting surfaces. Had one with some pitting that I thought about soldering, but used edge of a screwdriver to move some copper around instead. After re-assembly, check to make sure the turn signal movement is good; I had to disassemble again to align one of the switch contacts as there is the center one and one off to one side (I missed the one off to the side). Little white tab should extend out when either turn indicator is in its position, press the tab from the opposite direction (up or down) to release and allow the arm to return to neutral position.

I could see some discoloration on the harness connector likely due to heat from having bad (high resistance) contacts for a while. First time in 18 years its been clean, maybe get 18 more? Hahahahaha. Oh man, I love a good joke.