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Originally Posted by Spencerfitch
(Post 226019)
I have too much experience with this..
Its either.... IACV TPS or... ECU.. You can rule out the TPS with a scangauge or something that can show you live data. If you dont have anything to show you this. you can check the ohms with it in different positions. However I totally forgot the value. I think there are two different types of IACVs I know for a fact you can not worry about moving the pluger itll be fine.. Try cleaning it, but if its dirty it would restrict flow and computer would tell it to open up. But if it was stuck computer cant open it up and it would MOST LIKELY give you a fault. It should close at every shut off. And finally, I had a bad ecu... If you get a new ecu make sure you get the matching security ecu with it. The TPS is 90$ at autozone The IACV is 45$ at advanced The ecu can be found at junk yards.. A shop can reset the adaptive value for the ECU and it'll probably cost you 90$ but if your ecu is bad it will go back to how it was. Ask me how I know.. look for a thread by me it should have alot of information that I can't remember.. |
Originally Posted by Chris-bob
(Post 225979)
Always test the component before you replace it. There are other components that can cause a high idle besides the IACV.
Short of having a LR factory testbook which will show IACV position, what test is there? |
You can check the motor with a DVOM.(multimeter) I don't remember what to test for, but someone posted the what to test and what the limits are for the pins on the IACV.
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Originally Posted by Chris-bob
(Post 226081)
You can check the motor with a DVOM.(multimeter) I don't remember what to test for, but someone posted the what to test and what the limits are for the pins on the IACV.
I was just wondering, when mine went bad I searched and searched for a test method, but was told that because it is basically an electric motor moving the plunger there was no reliable test method other than being able to read it's postition in real-time to see if it moves. |
Originally Posted by kenk
(Post 226090)
I was just wondering, when mine went bad I searched and searched for a test method, but was told that because it is basically an electric motor moving the plunger there was no reliable test method other than being able to read it's postition in real-time to see if it moves.
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I remember one redneck test would be to unplug iacv turn key on and plug it in then turn off the key and unplug the iacv and repeat to drive it closed. I don't think you had to actually start the vehicle. It was something Like this. And all it really proved was that your iacv was bad, not too bad because it would move alittle bit if it's too bad it won't move at all. I know basically useless
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Spencerfitch is right. He and I battled this problem for a long time. I finally replaced my TPS and IACV then found an indie with testbook (not the knockoff but the real testbook) and payed him 50 bucks to reset everything. All total I spent 200 to fix mine. Good luck!
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i had the exact same symptoms. wasn't the stepper motor (idle air control valve) it was that my throttle blade inside the throttle body was not closing totally. it looked like it was and i used a bunch of carb cleaner in there, but there was always a small gap letting too much air through.
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Originally Posted by dynomite
(Post 226245)
i had the exact same symptoms. wasn't the stepper motor (idle air control valve) it was that my throttle blade inside the throttle body was not closing totally. it looked like it was and i used a bunch of carb cleaner in there, but there was always a small gap letting too much air through.
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So I haven't driven the Land Rover in a few days. Started it today. It wasn't idling high in P. Well high at 900 but not as high as before. I went to drive it and it felt like it was going to die and there was no power at all... Any ideas?
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