Top of radiator - battery side - remove fitting when cold and nose elevated.

How do I bleed my coolant system
 

I imagine its in the RAVE but dog gonit I can figure out how to use it well.

I need to burp my coolant system after new motor and tranny instal we get the sloshing sound.


Thanks fellas and ladies

Yesterday in the partss store I looked at a Peak 5 dollar kit that you basically cut the heater hose and install a flushing tee. When you want to backflush, you connect a garden hose to an adapter in the kit to the flushing tee.

The flushing tee is left installed in the hose. Has anyone tried these?

Those kits have been around forever and work well. The only downside IMO is adding another weak point in your cooling system...that is more hose-clamps and a plastic piece that can break.

How elevated? LOL

Bleeding the system is easy, start with a stone cold engine.
Remove fill plug on radiator and overflow tank.
Top off system, start engine turn both sides to full hot, roll down drivers window and put HVAC control to "dash" or "vent"
HVAC fan on low.
Let engine idle, t-stat will open and coolant will start to flow out of radiator fill plug.
Once only coolant comes out and not air bubbles put that cap back.
Leave engine running the whole time.
Once a steady stream of steam comes out of overflow tank put the cap back.
The whole time this is going on keep a eye on the temp gauge and stick your hand infront of the vent to make sure you are getting hot air.
Once done you can shut it off, do not shut it off with the system open.
Drive for a day or 2 and check and top off after it has sat all night.
Whole thing takes 30 min or so.

thanks

Great Writeup! This should be in tech.

However, I would make one change..... Top off your fuel before you start. I had to run that beast for over an hour to get all those bubbles out. Agitating the top hose helped a bit (dont squeeze it, just tap it or wiggle it.)

If you have ramps available, put one ramp on battery side to raise that corner.

I believe it is in the tech section all ready.

Today I had a nice pin hole leak in my heater hose. UGH, 3/4 inch hose at autozone, fits on the pipe locate on top of engine but heater core pipe to hose fitting is lacking any snugness. So far so good.

Sheesh

Looks like I need to bleed the air out of heater core after new radiator. I did the fill radiator until fluid comes out, with engine off. I also filled the expansion tank to full mark. I will have to make sure I do it with engine cold so the thermostat is closed then goes to open.

Sometimes a bubble in the heater core can be coaxed to the surface by putting the nose of the truck up an incline, over a curb, on a ramp, etc., and running for a brief period of several minutes, heat on max.

If you keep hearing bubbles go by, that might not be a good sign....

I will do that. As for the "not a good sign" IT BETTER NOT BE WHAT THAT COULD MEAN.. *(GASP) I better not screw up my head gasket because I put in a new radiator because the POS from BP utah cracked.....

Here's slanginsanjuan's solution... works every time... won't hear any more bubbles.

But I need heat in Iowa..... lol I will do that for summer! I did get most of them out. I still hear it every once in a while.. But NOTHING like before. I drove it for almost 30 min and it didn't seem to be growing or anything. I will monitor it and bleed again? I jacked the battery side up and opened both radiator and expansion tank caps. It was elevated by 1 ft.
Bubbles did come out, but not all of them. Suggestions?