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Need Help with 96 Disco, Will only go while Diff is in lock

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  #21  
Old 01-23-2011, 08:12 AM
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Does the "swivel joint" look like this?


If it does, it's a single cardan u-joint and that's not the problem because one of your propshafts would be flopping around.
That's not to say it doesn't also need replacing, only that that's not the issue with your axle.

Or does it look like this?

That is a CV joint.
If it isn't this, then the problem might be in your center diff. But I'd focus on the front axle first.


You might be ok driving it 12 miles. However, if it's the CV or diff it could lock up on you during the drive.
 

Last edited by antichrist; 01-23-2011 at 12:33 PM.
  #22  
Old 01-23-2011, 11:10 AM
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Join AAA and get it flatbedded. That way you know it will make it at a predetermined price and not sustain any more damage. Or drive it at your own risk or you could possibly have some tow you with you in it depending on what the 12 miles consist of.

Driving it may cost you considerably more if it grenades on you underway.

How lucky do you feel or how much are you willing to risk?

A flatbed ride may be the cheapest and safest way.

Think Clint Eastwood in Dirty Harry "Do you feel Lucky?"
 
  #23  
Old 01-23-2011, 11:12 AM
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I will take a picture and send it your way, from what I remember it appears to be the cv joint however it appeared to have anonther piece with it. My daughter and live in a private community and the community board does not allow vehicles being worked on here so its difficult to remember.But I will send a photo to you. I understand the basic 4wheel drive method, however the land rover seem to really be an all wheel drive to the best of my understanding? I am going to watch the videon the a member attached and see if it may clear things up for me, thanks for all the help and I hope to get educated a bit on this.
 
  #24  
Old 01-23-2011, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Disco
Join AAA and get it flatbedded. That way you know it will make it at a predetermined price and not sustain any more damage. Or drive it at your own risk or you could possibly have some tow you with you in it depending on what the 12 miles consist of.

Driving it may cost you considerably more if it grenades on you underway.

How lucky do you feel or how much are you willing to risk?

A flatbed ride may be the cheapest and safest way.

Think Clint Eastwood in Dirty Harry "Do you feel Lucky?"

Thanks I believe I will haul it to be safe. I am never that lucky
 
  #25  
Old 01-23-2011, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 96LRD1
I understand the basic 4wheel drive method, however the land rover seem to really be an all wheel drive to the best of my understanding?
All wheel drive and full time four wheel drive are 2 different animals all wheel drive does not use a center differential it uses a viscous clutch that means a clutch that is full of fluid and a AWD does not have a hi-lo transfer case like a full time 4x4 does the transfer case on a 4x4 is gear driven also the transfer case on a Land Rover is lockable when you lock the CDL (center differential lock) you lock both drive shafts together so that equal power goes front and rear you cannot do that on a all wheel drive car if you could not lock the center differential then you could not drive the truck and some punctuation and paragraphs would be nice and make it easier to help/understand your questions.
 
  #26  
Old 01-23-2011, 12:34 PM
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I just realized I made a typo, sorry. If it's the u-joint in the top photo, then that's not your problem.
 
  #27  
Old 01-23-2011, 12:37 PM
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The Discovery is strictly FULL TIME FOUR WHEEL DRIVE.

You have what is basically a high and low (2 speed) transfer case. Select the desired selection (high for the highway and around town) (Low for when you really need a lot of pulling power but lower top speed). To shift from high to low or back, the transmission must be in neutral, unless somebody removed the servo from the T/C. This is done by moving the shifter fore and aft only.

Also, you can Lock and Unlock the center differential. Use UNLOCK for driving on dry pavement. DO NOT LOCK AND DRIVE ON HARD DRY SURFACES>
<<<YOU WILL DAMAGE IT SEVERELY>>>

If you are in mud or snow or other loose conditions and need maximum traction, move the lever side to side to lock and unlock. This can be done supposedly at any speed, if it is all working, just do not do it if wheel is spinning freely. ENGAGE IT BEFORE YOU GET STUCK AND BURIED TO THE FRAME BUT NOT ON DRY FIRM SURFACES.

If the shifter does not freely move side to side and engage the CDL (with the dash light showing engagement) then you have the CDL Linkage STUCK phenomena due to corrsion in the linkages.

Click on the link in my signature and you will find multiple pictures of the fix.
 
  #28  
Old 01-23-2011, 12:38 PM
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I especially enjoyed the video from TweakRover explaining the differential and the pictures from Tom Rowe.
 

Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 01-23-2011 at 12:40 PM.
  #29  
Old 01-23-2011, 12:48 PM
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we know that the cdl works in this case because the truck will only drive in the locked position. I think it is easier to help someone figure somthing out if they have a little bit of an idea of how it works, hense the video. Keep in mind while you watch the video that there are 3 diffs in the truck. 1 in the transfer case that splits the power to the front and rear driveshafts( which is lockable with the CDL), and one in the front axle that splits power between the 2 front wheels, and one in the rear axle spliting btween the rear wheels. the axle diffs aren't lockable. hope this helps you to see whats going on in your truck.
 
  #30  
Old 01-23-2011, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by tweakrover
we know that the cdl works in this case because the truck will only drive in the locked position.
Yes, the CDL works, but that doesn't mean the center diff works when unlocked. I'm pretty sure if the cross pins were sheared the truck would only move with the CDL locked.
Of course, it's more likely a problem in the the front axle as mentioned.
 


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