This is my first time posting so I am very thankful that they have this forum available. So I'm a woman who just fell in love with the look of a car and just had to get it lol

I have a 96 Disc and I took it to get a brake & lamp inspection and didn't realize I had so many problems to deal with.

They said they had to check why the ABS light is on (I know I should've asked but for some reason I was thinking about the SRS light when they told me about it) and diagnose it and that itself would cost $196.00. I live in San Francisco and wanted to know if that is a reasonable price.

And I have the SRS, Anti-lock and 4WD lights on and wanted to double check with you guys to see what those problems could probably be.

I plan on having the brakes fixed and they said I only have lic plate light to fix.

Sorry my first post is so long. I need all the help I can get but I understand if you guys don't want to answer all these questions so one is good for me lol

Thanks!!!

 

Here's some pages from the owner's manual. You can download the whole manual, and a set of factory tech manuals, called the RAVE, at the link in my signature.

If the 4WD light is on, you could be driving with the CDL in lock mode. This is very tough on the drive train if you are on dry pavement. And can lead to expensive failures in a short period of time. You'll want to review the "small shifter" positions. Could also be the switch that activates the light.

ABS could be a number of things, and if you search this site you will find that a number of people don't like the D1 ABS and unplug a relay to turn it off.

The SRS light is for the air bag system. But a regular garden variety code scanner won't talk to that ABS computer, need a more advanced model that dealers and advanced shops have.

While we have your attention, I would point out that the engine temp gauge should not be trusted above the 9:00 position, the truck over heats very quickly.

Rovers can be quite expensive to maintain by open check book. Finding a reliable indy shop is a good idea, and perhaps some other members will hop on here and point you to some good local shops. All I know is that you don't want to fly down Lombard Street in your current condition....

As for $190 to plug in a test unit, that's about $89 in my area. Some owners are able to get generic codes read for free at auto parts stores, and look up the real meanings in the RAVE or post on here. Some owners buy their own reader, and read and clear basic codes themselves. Basic codes are not ABS or airbag however.

Note: Don't confuse your problems with the "three Amigos" you will see mentioned for the D2 trucks. Different set of issues.

 

Pretty much what Savannah said.
Because of how it works, the 4WD light is more likely to not light up when the center differential is locked in 4WD (which is what it indicates) as opposed to lighting up when it's not locked.
In any case, that's nearly as important as the brakes because it will break your center diff, part of the secondary gearbox (transfer case).
It may be hard to find in SF but you'll likely need to reverse some on a dirt/muddy location to get it unlocked, as the drive train will bind up if driven like that for long.
Alternatively you can try jacking up one rear wheel, then one front wheel, to release the bind.

I'd get the manual as suggested and read up on the ABS. The first thing to try is lightly tapping the wheel sensors all the way in.

 

When they tell you how much it is going to cost to turn off the anti lock light let us know and we will tell you how to fix it for free.

Crawl under the truck and see if both driveshafts are still there.

 

Yeah, he's serious. ABS is over rated anyway. My light is on and I don't care.

Sadly, yeah, he's serious. Make sure your CDL shifter is in the correct position. Check it and let us know.

If you have any desire to work on your rig, now is the time to learn.
If you have NO desire to work on it, either sell it or find a mechanic friend asap.
Personally, I think you should keep it and invest in more tools.

 

I lived in SF for several years, and that is where my 97 D1 is from. One thing I learned; everything in SF is nearly double what it is everywhere else.

Consider calling someone on the peninsula, east bay, south bay, etc. to get a quote for the same work.

Good luck!

 

Since most of the folks I trust have replied the only $.02 I have is that an Ultra Gauge EM is what I use to keep mine up and running. It WILL find your codes and WILL cost you less than what you said they wanted to look at it for you.
UltraGauge Automotive Information Center and OBDII Scan Tool
And PLEASE do not trust anyone until you get a couple of estimates since ladies are a prime target to get ripped off since they are not a Gear Head. Become one with these trucks and it will save you money.

Check yours for the OBDII sticker under the hood since MOST 1996 and up are supported.

 

wow, you guys have been a lot of help, thanks so much!

As for the ABS light, they said they can't pass the inspection unless that is turned off. They did diagnose it but I realized that something really does sound fishy because not only are they charging me $2,550.00 overall but they said it might cost extra because there is a leak above the front right tire. They've already told me in the beginning that they do have to replace the axle shaft seal which would cost me $480 including labor but now they're telling me that it could be worse, they don't know what exactly it is but that there's going to be an additional cost for that!

I do have a mechanic that I trust but I've been advised that because it's a Land Rover, that I should take it to a certain shop to get my car fixed. But, would it be okay to take it to an indy shop for brake fluid flush, replacing disc rotors/pads?

With all the work that needs to be done on this vehicle, I'm still debating whether or not I should just sell it but I am willing to put some time and work into this car but talking to this auto shop really is discouraging.

Again, I really appreciate all the help you guys!!

Go Giants!!

 

What shop? Autoeuropa...Roverland...ISM????

Very curious of those shops, since I have never used them when I lived in the area (not too long ago). I used to goto WCB in Livermore, just due to the fact that they were the original LR support in the area. Also, knew the owner (Mike) whom raced in AHRMA before I knew he owned WCB. He is now close to retiring, and is kinda losing his mind...lol..... I'm curious to see who can be a good alternative...just in case.

In my perspective, learn your vehicle. It will be more cost effective for you to learn and do most of the work yourself. Granted, if you have the space to do it....SF ya..know...

 

For that kind of price, there are several of us that could do a heck of a lot to any DI. They obviously see you as an open checkbook. Forget dealing with them!

ABS is not needed on these, especially the way they do fail and disable the entire braking system.

Have you checked with any vo-tech schools to see if they work on vehicles for the public? They do that here and it is a great way for as woman or senior citizen to get things done often for the cost of parts alone.

One bit of advice from an older guy. Never fall in love with a vehicle, especially for it's looks alone!

George, when did you add the Bronco to the collection? Sounds sweet!