This is purely my own opinion and I do not guarantee it to be absolutely correct BUT, with a leak in the expansion tank or any other place in the cooling system, I would not be driving it.

I am under the impression that the coolant system needs to be able to maintain pressure for it to correctly function. (Can anyone provide verification that is correct?)

With the overflow tank cracked or leaking, how can you expect it to function properly?

The fact that the fans are coming on says that an overheat condition was detected.

Knowing how sensitive the aluminum block is to overheat damage, I believe you are taking a significant risk.

I usually try to do a basic risk/reward evaluation. You are risking severe damage to your engine with replacement being one of the very few ways to correct the problem if it does continually overheat. The other oe is scrappingthe entire vehicle because the engine crapped out.

How lucky do you feel (think Clint Eastwood, Dirty Harry) PUNK.

Simply put, why are you still driving it with the tank like that?

I do not know the failure rate on the old black ones, if it has not split yet, you may be ok (Chris-Bob and me).

But in the case of one that has already failed, I must ask, What the hell is wrong with you? When you see coolant gushing out, you need to ask yourself, Why Am I still Driving This Thing Like This?

Or do you really deep down inside really want to go ahead and replace the motor as well?

And adding WS as a precaution is something I would not consider without knowing preciasely what the interaction is between WS and the fluids you are contemplating adding it to. Think Risk vs Reward.

 

I can hear the fan running when the truck is off....does that mean anything? (other than the truck is running hot) checking the fan as soon as i get out of the office

 

The AC fans are switched on when an overheat condition exists. So yes that does mean something.

Order the white replacement from RN for $39 before you ruin your engine.

I was just giving some more thought to what I said regarding it being necessary for the system to pressurize.


With a cold engine, the thermostat is closed. The thermostat is springloaded to the closed position is it not?

What overcomes the spring force to allow the thermostat to open?

Force greater than the "preload" rating of the spring. The thermostat are rated by the temperature at which they open right?

It is also critical that the spring is properly oriented in the installation. If the spring is turned backwards, it will not open.

Following that logic, will the thermostat ever open with a major leak in the system not allowing the pressure to build up?

Anyway, I WOULD NOT DRIVE IT IN THAT CONDITION. REPLACE THAT OVERFLOW TANK!

 

truck is my daily driver/no other options at the moment to get to work... I regularly watch the temperature with my reader.... This has only happened a few times and does not happen very often.... I also am getting the new tank as soon as I can.....(paid on thursday)
It has just been unfortunate that the last time this did happen I did not have my reader hooked up to check engine temp... It must have reached 212 though or fan would not have stayed on after engine shut off correct? The tank is never empty and even after it spewed once the truck was cool it was down an inch in the expansion tank... topped her off and rolling the dice driving home...Gonna have my reader hooked up though so I can see what temps I am getting up too. So far though when I have had the reader hooked up I have never exceeded 194 degrees. This is why I am somewhat perplexed

 

It could have a big air bubble in there as well. You do not want it spewing any coolant OR sucking in any air either. A big air bubble can be a problem as well.

 

Good to know putting my rover down after finding that leak as the right move. Will have it in tonight.

On another note, does anyone know how to get this damn sidelight out of the bumper covers!? The bumper cover I got from the parts place doesn't fit (I guess it's from a D2, although both myself and the guy both were sure it was a D1 and it nearly fits perfectly), but the light inside will fit inside my old bumper cover that just needs the side light. The RAVE claims we just push to the right and pull out, but I swear this is not working. Thankfully I've been able to test on the old socket since the light was broken, but I've literally tried everything and can't unscrew the light because it's screwed from inside of the housing it looks like. Anyone know if this rubber cap thing is supposed to come off or what? It's driving me insane.

 

You remove the little metal clip. Most likely you will need a pair of diagonal cutters to cut it off, then get a replacement clip from a parts store. they just push on.

 

The star shaped clip? My goodness I sat here for like a half an hour trying to figure this out, thanks.

 

What was your major? Which School?
(Just kidding)

When I got my Discovery, one of the front fog lamps had actually fried and that socket was severely corroded and the fixture had partially melted.

Most Discovery owners soon learn that the plastic air dam and the plastic end caps are mostly just decorative. Lots of them do not survive a decent trail run. If you do break pieces off like that, please don't leave them laying around on the trails. It gives us all a bad name and further limits available riding trails.

As you can see on the inside of the one you bought, they get really nasty really quick. That is usually why those lights are problematic. There ar a lot of nicer LED lights that can be easily switched for side markers, blinkers, tail lights and even off-road and work lights.

Keeping it authentic is pretty low on my priority list as far as the Discovery goes.

 

Yea, I've thrown out the pieces. I shouldn't be surprised anymore with LR tech.

Scumbag Land Rover: Builds 4500 lb car that can trek over mountains and ford rivers; make lights and bumper strong as twigs and impossible to access.