New exhaust
#1
New exhaust
So I bit the bullet and picked up a cheap exhaust system from Lucky 8 on Ebay... Has front resonator, pipes and rear muffler, plus 2 clamps. all for under $200.... Hopefully it will fit without too much modification. Minnesota enacted a new law making it illegal to talk on a phone while driving unless it is with a "Hands free" device. with my current exhaust, it is impossible to hear the stupid phone. I do like the exhaust rumble but I need to hear when work calls. Hopefully this weekend I can get it in place....
#2
I installed that kit on my 97 last spring. Hardest part was dealing with the ring on the y-pipe. The studs broke off and I had to drill them out and use stainless nuts & bolts.
The fit was very good.
After install OverRover suggested painting the welds to protect from corrosion. That would have been MUCH easier to do BEFORE the installation.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...muffler-88896/
The fit was very good.
After install OverRover suggested painting the welds to protect from corrosion. That would have been MUCH easier to do BEFORE the installation.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...muffler-88896/
#3
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#7
At any and all exhaust tubing connections, cast iron exhaust manifold studs as well every threaded bolts apply Loctite Nickel Anti-Seize compound. It's good up to 2,400*F.
Be it next month or 20 years later the bolts and nuts can be easily removed.
Depending where you live, salted roads or just out in mud country wet all the time best to invest in a stainless exhaust system vs aluminized steel or cheaper yet plain steel exhaust tubing systems. Far as loud exhaust, not a problem with a Borla Cat Back system 100% stainless muffler included. Going on 20 years zero problems besides the "million mile warranty". Just enough rumble to enjoy vs dead silent with a lot of back pressure systems. No connection with Borla just a happy D1 driver.....~~=o&o>......
Be it next month or 20 years later the bolts and nuts can be easily removed.
Depending where you live, salted roads or just out in mud country wet all the time best to invest in a stainless exhaust system vs aluminized steel or cheaper yet plain steel exhaust tubing systems. Far as loud exhaust, not a problem with a Borla Cat Back system 100% stainless muffler included. Going on 20 years zero problems besides the "million mile warranty". Just enough rumble to enjoy vs dead silent with a lot of back pressure systems. No connection with Borla just a happy D1 driver.....~~=o&o>......
#8
Walt,
What size stainless nuts and bolts did you use once you drilled out the old studs? I'll hopefully have time to install that new exhaust kit from Lucky 8 this weekend. The clamps that weren't in the box originally were delivered this week. I like to have everything on hand prior to installs instead of making multiple trips to the store, or worse, having to wait for parts to be delivered.
I also painted the welds with Rustoleum high heat paint last weekend prior to the install. The flat aluminum color was a pretty good match. Thanks for that tip, OverRover!
What size stainless nuts and bolts did you use once you drilled out the old studs? I'll hopefully have time to install that new exhaust kit from Lucky 8 this weekend. The clamps that weren't in the box originally were delivered this week. I like to have everything on hand prior to installs instead of making multiple trips to the store, or worse, having to wait for parts to be delivered.
I also painted the welds with Rustoleum high heat paint last weekend prior to the install. The flat aluminum color was a pretty good match. Thanks for that tip, OverRover!
#9
I wouldn't use stainless nuts and bolts as they will seize and gall up in a heartbeat especially being under heated exhaust systems.
On a good note you'll be able to twist off seized stainless hardware as it isn't as strong as steel hardware, actually a bit gummy vs regular steel hardware.
Like I mentioned before, anti-seize compound I mentioned above as well applying it to the alignment correcting ball socket joint mating surfaces for easy future removal.
Hot torch warming up plus penetrating oil, not so hot it boils off the oil applied a day or so longer before nut removal preventing snapping off studs. If after 3-4 reheats with oil applied the nuts didn't break free then torch heating them to to around 1,000*F, they'll come off. Going at it "ham fisted" just makes more work plus the added expense replacing parts and time.......~~=o&o>......
On a good note you'll be able to twist off seized stainless hardware as it isn't as strong as steel hardware, actually a bit gummy vs regular steel hardware.
Like I mentioned before, anti-seize compound I mentioned above as well applying it to the alignment correcting ball socket joint mating surfaces for easy future removal.
Hot torch warming up plus penetrating oil, not so hot it boils off the oil applied a day or so longer before nut removal preventing snapping off studs. If after 3-4 reheats with oil applied the nuts didn't break free then torch heating them to to around 1,000*F, they'll come off. Going at it "ham fisted" just makes more work plus the added expense replacing parts and time.......~~=o&o>......
Last edited by BierNut; 09-07-2019 at 01:51 PM.
#10
Well.. exhaust is in place. those rubber holders are a pain in the .. fingers!! Truck is so much quieter now! the old front muffler (resonator??) was rusted out right down the side and completely exposed the inlet pipe! Guess that is why it was so loud. Of course, now I will need to fix the horn as nobody will hear me comming, and I won't be scaring the deer off at night. Exahust system went right in place without too much trouble, except for the front studs of course.