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P1177, low idle, stalling.

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  #21  
Old 10-29-2017, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ihscouts
Parameters cleared? How? If your referring to disconnecting the battery (due to replacement) that doesn't mean the ECU drops what's stored. It doesn't. It stores everything in a non-volatile memory even when power is removed.
Oh, ok, From numerous posts here, I was under the impression you could clear adaptive parameters (such as might be caused by faulty signals sent) by disconnecting the battery. I guess this is wrong.

Originally Posted by ihscouts
Rough idle *might* be due to the idle control solenoid and it might not, rough idle can also be caused by several other sensors gone wild. The MAF, top O2's, Crank Sensor, Cam Sensor, Injectors, Coils and so on...... it could even be the ECU that's kaput and no matter what part you throw at it it may not stick.
Yup. I think we all know stuff like that. That's why we come here to share ideas. And codes. And questions.


Originally Posted by ihscouts
You have a vehicle that needs to be analyzed by a shop every once and awhile. Not any shop but one that has an Autologic or Testbook T4 to truly find out what is going on with the ECU and all the sensors it gathers information from or sends to.
Again, yup, but I came here first because that's what we do here.

Originally Posted by ihscouts
I know you have a basic knowledge of what sensor might be the trouble but in the end the cost of you replacing what you *think* is wrong and what is actually wrong is could be causing you to spend the same amount or more as a shop would charge for a diagnostic and reset on the ECU.
Replacing what it's time to replace is just good maintenance. I did my plugs, I need to do my wires. I have a cheap MAF and I cleaned it, and I realized that every time I have cleaned a cheap MAF, I have killed it, so I dropped another $45 on a new one. If I don't need it, I have a spare. I intend to live long enough that I require another at some point.


Originally Posted by ihscouts
So *if* you get it running budget for a shop hookup in the future. They will tell you either what you already know confirming your prowess or what you don't know which could bring you to the realization that you have a money pit of a Rover....maybe.
You and I have a different sense of the word "budget." I sometimes "budget" for a dinner at Morton's Steaks, but I don't walk in and say, "give me what you think I need." I go in with an idea what I want. For be to bring a crippled car to a shop is always an invitation for a ripoff at the worst, success at the best, but anywhere in between, really just an absolute ton of hassle that I have been able to avoid, in the past, through sound discussion with rational peers.



Originally Posted by ihscouts
The independent shops are the least expensive hourly, European Specialty Shops usually cater to the Land Rover vehicles along with Jags and what not.
Such prowess! Yeah, people know this generally.

Originally Posted by ihscouts
The what the what is getting it running well enough to get it motivating, maybe the replacement MAF might do it. The Idle Control solenoid port will need to be gently cleaned in order for the pintle to seat firmly closed and depth wise. That means the port will need to be cleaned down to bare aluminum, no black crusty carbon at all. Whatever you use to clean it with can't leave deep scratches on the seat otherwise you've wasted your time.
Yup.

Originally Posted by ihscouts
Needs to be bright and smooth. Setting the new pintle length is the other issue. When changing a bad solenoid with a clean port seat it's easy to match the new pintle length to the old one. When you have a carbon crusted seat and try to match the new to the old solenoid it's a guessing game to how much further you need to turn the pintle out to compensate for the carbon that's been hammered on the seat. The ECU actually adjusts the length of the idle control solenoid on it's own, there is a screw shaft and the bulk of the idle control solenoid is actually a small motor that rotates the screw shaft. So for some guys, if the seat is clean and they adjust the pintle approximately to the old the ECU will turn the screw a smudge to finish the adjustment. Bet you didn't know that?
You bet wrong! What are we betting? You lost. Hoping it's a steak dinner at Morton's.

Why would someone be calling out a part without knowing what it does and how to set it? I merely referenced cleaning it as part of some maintenance I'm doing while I wait for wires, etc.

Originally Posted by ihscouts
So not only does it open and close to hit the 1200 rpm cold start speed and then adjust for the 700 rpm warm idle speed but it can move in and out to adjust itself. It has to be very close to the factory length though.
Great! I'm not gonna adjust it, having previously read up on how precise the turns are, and also noting in my descriptions that the idle was doing pretty well on its own. I'm just cleaning it.

Originally Posted by ihscouts
If you do have a carbon layered seat it's because your PCV valve isn't working. You need the vacuum that valve provides to also allow the engine to run well. Check it.
Checked the PCV valve last night and cleaned the tubes. It was lovely of you to suggest that at the finish of this hopefully cathartic post.
 
  #22  
Old 10-29-2017, 08:21 PM
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Lets just bash ihscouts today!!!

I have to say ihscouts knows his ****. I would not have a rover today if it was not for him and a few others. He personally helped me out and now i have a truck that runs just like new. With out him i would have never been able to rebuild my engine, I had it all the way down to bare block and back.

Just take a step back back for a few days clear your head and jump back into it. Something is being over looked like Vacuum leak, Pressure regulator, Fuel pump connector behind drivers side rear wheel, failing multi function relay, or air idle control valve needs to be removed and have the plunger and port cleaned.
 
  #23  
Old 10-30-2017, 08:01 AM
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Pidge, I believe you are mis-interpreting things. I'm sure you are frustrated but you are working against your own interests.

I have no horse in the race but over the many years reading this forum I have come to form opinions about many of the folks that post and, for the most part, have concluded that most come here from a place of good-will. ihscouts is among those I'd put at the top of that list.

Take a breath.
 
  #24  
Old 10-30-2017, 09:05 AM
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I replied to his whole post completely appropriately. That it contained a lot of weird stuff is not my problem.My reply is fair and neutral.I respectfully disabused him of a lot of assumptions he made, I commented on the things he wanted to bring on me that are common to literally everyone here, and I thanked him for the one piece of information that reflects what people do here.

You all take a breath! I've received numerous private messages telling me to have strength when he bears down on people, and I ignored them. This is simply a back-and-forth, and my responses were utterly appropriate. He's a big boy. He can read a response to his post.

Did you all misinterpret a tone in MY post, as you accuse me of doing to him? Then maybe you see how that works??

You have no need to pile on.
 

Last edited by pidge; 10-30-2017 at 09:19 AM.
  #25  
Old 10-30-2017, 10:42 AM
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I'm abandoning this thread because it's just bullying on top of condescending mansplaining, despite my attempt to respond to That Post to get it back to a discussion of auto issues.

Per this post https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...en-warm-51237/

this post https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...7-p1179-69565/

Though NOT per this post https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...raining-49975/

Nor this post https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-sensor-72883/

This one https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...t-wrong-67746/

Future readers with these codes, start with your pump. I'd honestly say ignore all the talk about CkPS on this. These particular symptoms don't ever result in a post saying, "THAT FIXED IT!" Check and clean spark process, check and clean vacuum (including PCV), check and clean MAF and air filter, check and clean pump and filter and pump wiring, including at the rear wheel and at the ECU. GOOD LUCK!
 
  #26  
Old 10-30-2017, 01:49 PM
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wow. that went south fast.

i see you are cross posting on DiscoWeb. if you think the responses you received here were rough (i don't but i'm a man so i'm probably missing something) then tread lightly over at that site.

overall, i have found this forum to be very polite and helpful. scout can be rough around the edges at times but i went back and read and reread what he wrote and i'm just not seeing the tone, condescension and disdain you are inferring.

regardless, hope you get the issue with your rover fixed.
 
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  #27  
Old 10-30-2017, 02:01 PM
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Really, could any additional posts here either address the car issue or politely refrain from beating a dead horse? Enough really is enough.
 

Last edited by pidge; 10-30-2017 at 02:06 PM.
  #28  
Old 10-31-2017, 03:43 AM
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Find another forum. The dead horse is your Rover for the third or forth time and you've beaten it long enough here, it's time for you to move on out. Giddy up!
 
  #29  
Old 10-31-2017, 09:04 AM
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OR, please feel free to try one of the above highly effective options!
 
  #30  
Old 10-31-2017, 09:41 PM
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Awesome thread!!

My money is on meds.
 


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