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While I'm thinking about it...... you might want to check the con-rod shells while your at it. That type of grunge up top puts allot of carbon through the oil and grinds the shells to copper. I used a standard dial caliper to check journals with and luckily they came out with .010 undersize so I ordered .010 oversized and all was well down below. Helps maintain oil pressure which again reminds me, if you do remove the heads the oil galleys in the block are probably occluded, I used TIG wire and allot of Chemtool/diesel to soften and remove the garbage from the oil galley walls.
So I have a few questions now that I have the top pulled out and heads are off to get done. I have everything cleaned and ready to go back in.
For the connecting rods how to I pull them out? Do I need to pull the block out?
As for the oil galleys were would those be so I can clean them?
Do I need to pull the lifters out and clean them too? If so I figure I need to keep them in running order, just like the push rods.
Why? What are you doing to the connecting rods? Measuring and replacing shells (bearings) is done without removing anything other than the caps. Pistons with rods come out through the top. You'll need a ridge ream to do so otherwise they may break rings because of the lip at top of cylinder.
Small holes in block deck are oil galleys. One front and back on both banks.
Try to pull one lifter, with the miles on your engine they might be mushroomed. If that's the case then they'll only come out through the bottom so the cam would have to be removed. If you can pull em, soak em in Chemtool, pump them in the solvent to flush/soak and then set them in fresh oil bath and pump them to remove solvent.
I would assume I would use the ridge team after I pull the pistons out correct? And if that's the case would pushing them out mess up the rings to the point they need to replaced?
I will double check tomorrow after work to make sure. Does not seem right to me either. I did find evidence of a rebuild and the engine is not original to my truck. I'm wondering if that has something to do with it being in spec.
I have almost everything cleaned and ready to go back in once I get my heads back.
But I have a few questions:
I have a few spots on the block I can not get clean around the water ports. I have tried chemtool, scraper made from a cd case sharpened, and gasket removed. But it will not come off. I was told by the guy doing the heads not to use a scotch bright pad or any brushes. What is next that I can try?
If I pulled out everything but the cam, main crank, and front cover, do I need to be woried about timeing being off?
For my cam, should I change it out as I have some wear that I can feel?
04-21-2017, 08:43 PM
