Starter Replacement Discovery I 1999 SD
 

Car being worked on: 1999 Land Rover Discovery SD (Series I)

Hi everyone,

Below I’ve listed step-by-step instructions of how to remove and refit a new starter on a 1999 Land Rover Discovery series I. These directions are geared for a beginner (as I was prior to doing this job). I listed the tools that i used but there’s more than one way to figure it out I’m sure.



The starter I purchased ($225) was from BritishStarters (classiccar performance.com). It’s a Japanese starter that provides high torque using less battery, doesn’t get as hot, and is smaller than the OEM starter in the Landrover:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...add850e13.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...fca41304c.jpeg




Tools/Materials:

1. New Starter: recommend a starter from BritishStarters
2. 3/8” drive socket wrench
3. 3/8” drive socket wrench extension (standard extension that comes with most simple socket wrench kits)
4. 10mm socket (used to remove the bolt holding the heat shield to the vehicle)
5. 13mm socket (used to remove battery negative terminal clamp)
6. 17 mm wrench (used to remove emissions sensor)
7. 8 mm Hex Tool (used to remove the 2 bolts holding the old starter/solenoid to the engine)
8. 1-2 foot piece of piping that can slide over your socket wrench to gain leverage

Optional materials:

1. Safety glasses (if the bottom of your engine is dirty you’ll have plenty of debri falling onto your face and into your eyes)
2. Disposable gloves
3. Worklight (small enough to stick down into the engine)

Step 1 - Make sure your vehicle is stable:

I jacked up my Discovery to work underneath it as its very cramped. (You could also use ramps to make it quicker and easier)

Per the owners manual: Put the vehicle in park and shift to Low. Engage the emergency brake (locks out the transmission) and block off the back wheels.



Step 2 - Disconnect Negative Battery:

While disconnecting positive also works, if while unfastening the positive cable you make contact with your metal wrench to another component of the engine there is a possibility of transferring current and causing damage (plus the negative terminal is often more simple with less cables going to it)



Step 3 - Remove the Heat Shield Plate:

There is a heat shield that surrounds your starter and solenoid, it must be removed. To be able to remove the heat shield you must do 2 things.

1. There is one bolt fastening the heat shield to the vehicle that must be removed. This bolt can be removed from the top side of the engine(aka standing) with a socket wrench with a standard extension and a 10mm socket (without the extension you won’t be able to get in there)
2. You must also remove the emissions sensor (oxygen sensor) that is plugged into the exhaust system that is situated slightly lower and slightly farther back from the starter/solenoid. The emissions sensor must be removed from the underside of the engine (aka laying on the ground under your vehicle), this is the only place you can get in there with a 17mm crescent wrench and have leverage to remove the sensor.

To get the heat shield out of your way the manual instructs you to pull the plate down and backwards (I personally tried upward and out topside of the engine and I also pushed it forward, but these two directions were impossible to get the plate out)

While removing the heat shield be aware of the RH knock sensor and wiring going into the engine that is in the vicinity of the heat shield. It’s easy to sever and break this sensor and/or its wiring.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...d7e948ef6.jpeg


Step 4 - Remove the Wires from the Old Starter:

One big power wire attached by a nut

One ignition relay that slides over a metal thin connection (near the power wire)

One ground wire (my ground was attached to the top bolt holding the starter to the engine via a ring terminal)



Step 5 - Remove the Hex Bolts from the Starter:

Before attempting to loosen the hex bolts (aka Allen cap screws) make sure to clean the recess out otherwise your hex tool won’t seat properly. The bottom bolt can be removed from under the vehicle. The hex caps take an 8mm hex bit. I personally used a 3/8 drive socket wrench with an 8mm hex bit socket and then slid a pipe over the socket to give more leverage. For the top bolt i was able to get from the top and use the same socket wrench and bit.



Step 6 - Pull The Starter, Inspect the Opening

My starter had shot white plastic pieces into the engine recess, make sure if yours is being replaced as a result of a failure this hasn’t happened to you.



Step 7 - Install the New Starter and Reconnect Wiring

Install the new starter making sure to put in properly (my new starter had “UP” punched into the metal by one of the bolts).



Step 8 - Replace the Heat Shield

Reverse the procedure for the head shield if you plan on putting it back on, I ended up not putting mine back on.

Nice write up. Couple of notes.
- I've never had to remove the O2 sensor to replace the starter, and I've done it in my gravel driveway in about 10 minutes.
- I'd day the heat shield is optional. I've removed the shield on all the D1's I've owned and never had an issue.
- Most importantly, replace the socket cap screws with normal 3/8" bolts. I usually opt for a couple longer Grade 8 bolts with nuts for spacers. It makes it so you can use a combination wrench to pull the starter next time.

Sweet thread. Thanks guys.

super smart idea on changing bolts. Good on you 👍

Any issues with the new starter? Since it’s not OEM, wanted to check first before considering it.

Yep, I believe the solenoid just took a dump on me… also the guy who sells these is god awful at getting back to you. I began working on a warranty replacement when the starter started grinding occasionally and it took the owner 3 months with numerous emails to get him to fulfill the lifetime warranty.

I’ll let you know if my swap restores my currently D1 back to life.