Swivel Pin - no oil drains out
 

97 Disco 1, 173K, I have owned it for about 2K of that. Decided to drain and replace swivel pin oil per the factory manual. Opened drain plug and nothing came out on one wheel, about 1 ounce on the other. Black liquid, viscous. Probed opening with Q-tip - came out with black oil on it.

Tried to add 80-140 gear lube (on the premise that thicker is better) to fill hole, but it would not take more than about a teaspoon before overflow. Used hand pump and filled from drain hole, until it ran out steady from fill hole. Felt like it took a number of ounces (five or six). Quickly and messily installed drain plug, topped off.

So is this likely just low/no oil from lack of maintenance by PO; or could it be that in the past someone filled the swivel housing with grease, which now keeps me from filling easily from the top fill hole? How does low or dry swivel pin system behave?

I would assume if it is a "greased" unit, adding 85-140 won't do any harm. In a lot of farm equipment gear boxes guys run a mix of gear lube and regular grease (1/2 a tube or more), mixed into "pudding".

Thanks for comments in advance.

The swivel balls take "00" grease, it is a mixture of grease and gear lube.
You cant fill it with gear lube because the CV joint is in the way, you need to turn the steering wheel to full lock and then stick the nozzle from your pump in at a outward angle so as to get past the CV joint.
CV Joint for Range Rover Classic | Land Rover wheels, tires, hubs, axles
You are dumping gear lube right ontop of the CV.

Spikey Likes It...
 

I will just add a small safety precaution. Safety of the Power steering pump, not you.

You do not want to hold the steering wheel at full lock for more than 20 or 30 seconds while the engine / power steering pump is running. That would mean more time at full lock while everything is turning and pumping and the pump valves and seals can begin to overheat. A good practice is to turn on engine, turn to full lock, and hold there as you shut off engine. Then grease your balls...or share the moment and have your wife help you.

What? It's better with a helper....:cool:

A real man would just turn the key and not start the engine and then just crank the wheel to full lock. ;)

Touche mon Frere
 

Now that's a Series!!! :cool:

Power steering is for chicks

Dont run 85w140...it will leak..personal experience.

I run Lucas Red Tacky in my swivels with great results..also is water resistant more so than gear oil

Did you have any metal in the oil that came out? Could be the CV's are ate up if there wasn't any oil in them The grease is a 00 grease just like you used on the farm. You can get it at any farm equipment store.

Thanks to all who responded.

Truck was on ramps, so did not turn wheels to side. Did not see metal when drained, exposed sphere looks clean and smooth, will have to check for oil leaks now. Test drive after drain/refill showed no change I could detect in handling or noise. Since I pumped in the lube up-stream, metal may not have followed. I guess I should drive a little, then drain again, checking for metal, and re-fill with 00 or grease. How do damage or worn CVs show up?

With it locked in 4 high it will clatter when you turn while rolling. You will hear it if its bad.

DO NOT drive your truck on dry pavement with the transfer case locked.
When a CV goes bad it will click when you make turns, the worse it is the worse the click until it breaks and you cant move.