Swivels (and small suspension question)
 

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My pinky is on the top swivel pin (left of the stub axle)
My index (pointer) finger is on the bracket.

I disabled the ABS in my vehicle. I was wondering if I can pull the ABS sensor out of the swivel pin and just cut it off. Then cut off the part of the bracket that the brake lines run through. That leaves a hole in the swivel pin. Is that okay to leave like that? I'm thinking the only part I need is the flat piece that the swivel pin screws into. I have Defender 90 rotors and brake calipers and will be installing new brake lines and replacing the rubber hoses with Stainless Steel ones. New brake lines = me getting new lines and bending = no need for the bracket, yeah? And removing that piece of the bracket gives me room to actually use a torque wrench on those two bolts on the swivel pin. What do you guys think?


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I installed the HD TF +2in lift about 1000 miles ago. I was wondering if this end of the bolt is supposed to touch my axle or did I overtighten?

It looks like you put the washer on upside down?

I asked Justin and a bunch of guys on the forum and that's what the ultimate conclusion came to.



Holy cow guys, 47 views and nobody can help me? :confused:

well ok....FWIW, I wouldnt leave a "hole" in the top of the swivel, I'm going to be going thru this soon myself, I was just going to cut off the wire at the sensor and leave the dead sensor in there to fill the hole ( keep water and such out) .....I was considering buying defender top pins (no abs hole) but I havent been told if they will fit for sure.....

Thank you! I was worried no one would reaspond. Ill call trevor and ask since im ordering from rovah farm. What all are you doing? Complete indepth swivel or just the basics?

I've decided to just cut the sensor off and just shove it into the new swivel pin. And Justin said that the nut is supposed to be near the axle like that so it's all good in the neighborhood.

I have to replace the swivel ball it self since its' all pitted....it pukes grease all over the wheel..so Im goin deep.....

XCELLER8, Here is a parts list I made with part numbers. If you look up each one individually on Rovah Farm it comes out to $60 per swivel. This is everything you need for one side except wheel bearings and the inner hub seal. (I already did that, I'm the one who made the wheel bearings and rotor sticky haha)


I found a NON ABS TOP SWIVEL PIN IF PEOPLE ARE INTERESTED. CHECK THE PARTS LIST!

FTC5105
SWIVEL BALL

FTC3401

SEAL-SWIVEL PIN HOUSING, 9MM, 4 WHEEL

ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM



FTC3276

SEAL-FRONT DRIVESHAFT, 4 WHEEL ANTI-LOCK

BRAKING SYSTEM



FTC3646

GASKET-SWIVEL PIN BEARING HOUSING TO AXLE

CASE, 4 WHEEL ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM



571718

SEAL-FRONT DRIVESHAFT, LESS ANTI-LOCK

BRAKING SYSTEM



571890

SEAL-SWIVEL PIN HOUSING, 12.5MM, 'CLASSIC

PART'



571752

GASKET-AXLE SHAFT DRIVE MEMBER



FTC2882

Swivel Pin Non ABS



FRC2883

SHIM, '0.003"'



FRC2884

SHIM, '0.005"'



FRC2885

SHIM, '0.01"'



FRC2886

SHIM, '0.03"'



FRC2894

PIN, LOWER



FTC3647

GASKET-LOWER SWIVEL PIN, ASBESTOS FREE



STC3435

GREASE, 375CC, ONE SHOT, CAN BE USED

INSTEAD OF OIL IN SWIVEL PIN HOUSING



606666

BEARING-TAPER ROLLER, LOWER



FTC3648

GASKET-STUB AXLE, ASBESTOS FREE



FTC2065

NEEDLE BEARING



FTC2066

THRUST WASHER

thanks !
that'll come in handy !

You're welcome sir! As soon as I get my parts I will probably do a write-up or a How-To video!

The swivel balls for ABS and non-ABS are different part numbers, I'm assuming because the upper bearings and pin are different.

FTC5105 - ABS
FRC7065 - non - ABS

So does that mean the non abs won't fit my swivel ball?

I believe that's correct. I have both ABS and non-ABS rebuild kits in the garage, I'll try to check dimensions today.

Thank you. Next question is:

I have ABS swivels. So I need tapered bearings top and bottom for swivel ball.
Top swivel pin needs to be ABS only (new info). So I still use needle bearing and two thrust washers on top with shims correct? So in this order from top down: top swivel pin, shims, washer, needle bearing, washer, swivel ball. Am I good so far?

Screw that.
Buy the gaitor kit, its a rubber boot that goes over and seals the swivel balls, your swivel's will look like a DII's CV joint.
Install the kit, no more leaks, I did this over a year ago, takes about a hour, water tight, works great and I highly recommend it.

Spike, is that the kit that's on ebay ?

You can actually buy it from land rover too.

RTC3826

Personally I'd use it to protect the seals and housing surfaces from damage before they start leaking.

No, Tapered roller bearing on the bottom only.
That sounds right, but double check the manual.

I couldn't find the rebuild kits. I must have boxed them up and stashed them on a back shelf.

Alright, I've been busy with work and school so the Landy is still missing her front end practically. I'll get with Trevor and figure this out and make a write-up.

Sorry its taken so long to reply, yes, I bought mine on e-bay from the UK, Atlantic British also sells them.
It was like $65 shipped from the UK for both sides.
The only thing I'd do different is use RTV where the boot mates to the swivel.
They use a paper gasket type of thing, I still dont have any leaks but I would do it different next time.

Wouldn't this kit just keep the grease from hitting the ground? Just eventually all your One Shot will be in the boot? Isn't the point of the oil seal to keep all the grease in the housing for the CV?

Not being an ass just wondering if I'm missing something.