T-Stat Change+Water Wetter...Gain 1.5mpg
 

I changed out my T-stat to a NON-Fail safe Murray 180* T-Stat and Redline Water Wetter....gained 1.5mpg....its def running much smoother especially at highway speeds and the clutch fan is not kicking in as often (probably where my mpg comes from)

I noticed something interesting as well..I have a section of highway with a good steady upper angle...usually i keep the same throttle..going in at 70mph...it would slow me down to about 55..now with the new t-stat and water wetter...only slows me down to 60-62 (I take this section of the road 6 times a week)

My plan was to slightly reduce head temps and prolong water pump life. The redline water wetter reduces bubbling of water...there for allows for water-heat transfer to occur more precisely

It has been two weeks since I did this...went from 13.5mpg to 15 even on 3 tanks of fuel :) running 93 octane for about 3 months now (finally have one in town)

Running 50/50 Green Coolant w/ Redline Water wetter and 180* T-Stat

Just thought I share...my Rover does not run richer than with the factory 195*..no codes trigger either.

Because you say so I'm changing back from 192 to 180. I had one, and it was staying at that 178 - 180 temp while running and would crawl up some at idle. I put in the 192 thinking I would get better mpg at hotter temp, did not make any diff. I used a high flow 180 from Summitt Racing (Robert Shaw Flow Cooler). Radiator rodded out, water pump replaced.

I think the 180 is a little easier on the head gaskets as well. 10-4 on the non fail safe - would not take a Disco too long to trip that failsafe version.

Better check your fan clutch, I got up to 16 mpg once, and the clutch was "free wheeling" when warm, would not kick on. Should roar at startup when cold, my new one (the $49 Chevy from the tech sticky) pulls enough air when cold to spin the AC condenser fans even though the AC is off.

Fan clutch is good to go...no free wheeling on that sucker...its roars in cold and does not free wheel once I shut it off after a good drive...I will be doing the Chevy conversion too though I think its an actual severe duty clutch fan, do you know if you have to use a chevy fan with that clutch fan?

I want this sucker to KEEP cool, not necessary get TOO COLD.

I am firm believer in good steady temps just a bit below factory (d2 came with 180* temp due to smaller radiator), water wetter and changing out anti freeze every year....not only that prolongs waterpump life, but also reduces oxidation, acid levels etc...therefore...head gaskets lasts longer

Dont forget the Water Wetter too....

On the Chevy conversion, a w/o AC is spec'd, it has a smooth face. They also have a with AC version, it has ridges, I tried that first but it roared more of the time, which would kill mpg, I took it back for the non AC version. You just have to slightly enlarge the 4 mount holes on the existing fan.

When I bought the truck, the serpantine belt was on wrong, the front condenser fans were reversed polarity and sucked air out rather than adding to the cooling, the fan clutch was shot; when AC kicked on at idle, radiator fan would slow down and almost stop (front fans pulling the wrong way), water pump pulley wobbling - replaced WP, radiator full of calcium and had to be boiled and rodded out, and that damn plastic plug on top had to be fished out and swapped for brass. Coolant jug top had to be replaced. I think the thermostat was the only thing working normally.

Man..that sucks....I am fortunate that my ride had great service history....and the radiator flows like a river... :)

This is also my off road rig so I will go with a Severe duty fan clutch...a hayden unit part number Hayden 2786

From the junk shelf, the box mine came in said Imperial 215157, got it and the other Auto Zone.

What about converting to dual electric fans, one large one? Did it once on another car, worked really well, kit was from Jeg's. Would love to get rid of that clutch fan.

I just replaced my thermostat on my disco I with a genuine land rover thermostat. $14 at the steelership (OOPS I SAID IT) It opens at 195 which I think is a little warm.. Agree?

I always wondered what the point of the electric fans are when you have a clutch fan, system redundancy? Just I case one fails, my electric fans don't even work( I found out yesterday ) I guess I will pick them up at the pick and pull for insurance.

Was testing my rig today before conversion back to 180 stat. At idle it got up to 221F, AC on. Noticed that my fans run with AC on, but did not run with AC off even though scanner said above 212. Diconnected compressor (plug on top), turned AC back on (no compressor) and electric fans did help it get back down to 210F. Decided to crank again and see if electric fans were being spun by main fan air flow when it starts up, solenoid won't pull the starter in (hear it spinning), let it cool off, cranks up.

Pulling heat shield to exam/clean wire connections on solenoid. I think you take loose the 10mm inside right side motor mount bracket, then slide the shield back.

I think I need to park the Disco out of wi-fi range from the house. I swear it is looking on the forum for the next PITA thing I need to do.....

As for purpose of electric fans (1) they cool off the AC condenser in slow traffic, to maintain a reasonable compressor head pressure- without them it will go to 415 - 450 psi and cycle by the over pressure switch (2) supplement main fan when truck is idle or slow and coolant above 212, and (3) cool engine compartment if coolant temp is above 230F AND fuel temp is above 70C AND engine is switched off.

Good test for electric fans is engine off, key in run position, AC on, AC fan on high - electric front fans should run. Hold wimpy plastic bag near grille, it should be sucked toward engine. If blowing out, will also cause overheat, happens with reverse polarity to fans by PO.

As for temp range, 180 should be fine, many old skool GM guys said don't let aluminum engine get over 200F. Don't go to 160, in winter it will take too long to get past 150, where 4th gear overdrive is enabled. I figure if I am running at 175 - 180, and I stop, it will take longer for me to reach above 200 than if I was starting from 195. I'm sure there are some air quality issues that are improved by running as hot as possible. But for me to keep funding my share of the EPA and all the other crucial federal programs, I have to be able to get to work.