Not sure I read your post right, but the area to clean is in the intake behind the IAC. Needs to be a clear passage back there, but I imagine you figured that out.

I forgot to tell you, but it's possible to ohm out an IAC valve electrical by ohming across certain terminals on the actual sensor itself. I would assume the proceedure is in the RAVE manual ..but IDK. However for $8, it doesn't hurt to have a spare in the tool box in case it doesn't turn out to be that. I bought a few key sensors for my PU (MAP/TPS/IAC because on Ebay they were like $8-14 each. I think pretty much all of them were EXACT duplicates of the original, a couple were Standard products. It's the way to go ....if for no other reason to have spares around to help debug a problem.

 

I cleaned the intake as well when I pulled the sensor. The one on eBay looked identical to the original one so hopefully it will work. Should get it before the weekend.

 

IACV came in today so I got to work.
New parts installed since purchase:
Fuel pump
valve cover gaskets
spark plugs and wires
IACV
miscellaneous vacuum lines

and I still have a high idle

Any ideas? Kinda stumped on this one.

thanks

Edit:
long term fuel trim on both banks is about 23%. Seems way too high to me

 

I've looked around the forums a little more and it looks like I might need the ECU reset? So I am going to my indy rover mechanic to see what he can do. I really hope this works because I have no idea what else could fix it.

Just for more reference:

Throttle position: 12.2%
Engine load: 13.7% (should be zero?)
Engine rpm: 1621
Just changed the engine oil and filter as well (shouldn't change idle)

Gonna change the transmission fluid and filter today as well but I don't think that has any effect on the high idle.

 

Good to know there are other clean examples of the original D1's left. I've always said there will be fewer D1's on the road one day than any other Land Rover. I think that day is here. Mine is bone stock as well. All original. If you ever run into questions about what goes where or need a photo let me know. How's the interior?

 

The interior is in very good condition. No cracks in the leather, headliner is still attached and is clean, floor has WeatherTech floor mats so the carpet is still nice.

I think I'd like to take you up on that offer. Can you get the voltage of your battery at 1500rpm? Mine is only making 13.91V, which seems a little low to me at that RPM. Compared it against my 4Runner (I know, different car) and that was making 14.5V at 600RPM. I am also suspecting that my alternator is failing, which in turn is causing the ECU to ramp up the idle to compensate for low voltage. I know that the GEMS system does this, but it seems kind of far fetched to me. But I am willing to put in a new alternator if it would help. The battery was 6 years old so I think it could have harmed the alternator. Just switched it out with a brand new Group 34 960CCA unit.

Thanks

 

Before you replace the alternator double check the Serpentine belt is routed correctly and in good shape (no cracks, etc.). Also check the belt tensioner is putting enough pressure on the belt/pulleys.
13.91v @ 1500rpm with accessories on is not crazy low. If you want to be 100% sure pull the alt and run it down to NAPA. They can bench test it for free. Good Luck

 

Well, I finally figured it out. It wasn't the ECU or the alternator or a simple vacuum leak.

It it was the throttle position sensor.

When the throttle was closed, the sensor was giving the value of 14% throttle. With the sensor taken off the intake, the value is 1.9% throttle. So I modified the sensor so that it could be mounted at its closed position. It idles at 750rpm now. The fuel trim has gone down significantly. And hopefully MPGs will go up a little as well. Hopefully my experience helps others with the same issue.

 

Sure. It will be Saturday before I can do it. Im running the original alternator as well and need to check it. Im probably going to replace it as a preventative measure.
Thanks[/QUOTE]

 

DiscoCam, are you saying the TPS wasn't allowing the throttle plate to completely closed, or, just that it the TPS was reading improperly when the throttle plate was fully retracted (closed)? Glad you found it.

Does anyone know if by unhooking the battery cables and holding them together for a period of time it will reset the ECM by draining the capacitors? I know it works on some vehicles, not sure about L/R's.