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Tranny's slipping. Any tips?

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  #11  
Old 07-08-2011, 07:53 AM
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Solenoids for the torque converter clutch, pressure control and gear shift. Sometimes more often then not the pressure control solenoid soots up and does not perform like it should. Usually an inspection will clearify. Very easy to look. Drop the pan and the valve body is right there. The solenoids are the parts that have wires connected. Just simply unbolt and remove to inspect. You can remove completly and using your battery, check to see if they work. The pressure control solenoid will often go bad first over the others becouse it is used throughout all the gears and more often. Some signs of defect are hesitation, shifting hard or late, not shifting at all. With the pressure control solenoid bad it will eventually wear out the torque converter clutch due to constant erratic engagement and disengagement. I would definitly check out the torque converter solenoid and pressure control solenoid. Some mechanics will say, oh you need a new torque converter. Yeah but why is the torque converter not engaging properly to gun the gears? Check the solenoids. There is a kit on Ebay right now for the complete clutch, seal kit for $289. But I do not believe you need a complete rebuild yet. Test those solenoids first.
 

Last edited by LRD2&ME; 07-08-2011 at 06:33 PM.
  #12  
Old 07-08-2011, 08:22 AM
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Thank you for the details. Looks like I have a project this weekend!

Originally Posted by LRD2&ME
Solenoids for the torque converter clutch, pressure control and gear shift. Sometimes more often then not the pressure control solenoid soots up and does not perform like it should. Usually an inspection will clearify. Very easy to look. Drop the pan and the valve body is right there. The solenoids are the parts that have wires connected. Just simply unbolt and remove to inspect. You can remove completly and using your battery, check to see if they work. The pressure control solenoid will often go bad first over the others becouse it is used throughout all the gears and more often. Some signs of defect are hesitation, shifting hard or late, not shifting at all. With the pressure control solenoid bad it will eventually wear out the torque converter clutch due to constant erratic engagement and disengagement. I would definitly check out the torque converter solenoid and pressure control solenoid. Some mechanics will say, oh you need a new torque converter. Yeah but why is the torque converter not engaging properly to gun the gears? Check the solenoids.
 
  #13  
Old 07-08-2011, 09:50 AM
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This is an easy one, if the fluid is burned, do 2 drain and refills after changing the filter, if it still happens the tranny is junk plain and simple, don't try to rebuild it, it will cost more then the truck is worth, find a good used one or sell it for parts, Sorry.
 
  #14  
Old 07-08-2011, 06:24 PM
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Transmission rebuilds are easy. Burnt or highly discolored fluid only means the fluid has not been changed for a long time and has been deteriorated. If you find alot of debris in the sump that is another story. However replacing parts inside a transmission is as easy as ABC. The vavle body is a bit trickier if you need to perform modifications. But if you take the valve body to a small transmission shop, they can check it out for you cheap like. Most problems occur in the valve body. Specifically solenoids which run about $60 each. Sure seems to be more intelligent to cure a cheap problem than replacing and spending more money on a used unit that can exhibit more serious defects. The fact that you are only slipping tells me you have a pressure problem, not a mechanical problem. My brother owns and runs a transmission business and if you would like I can give you his number. He can answer any trouble related question with accuracy. PM me.
 

Last edited by LRD2&ME; 07-08-2011 at 06:27 PM.
  #15  
Old 07-08-2011, 06:42 PM
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thats awesome, but i'd like to drop some knowledge on the PRE-tranny job side. If you haven't really been under this thing yet you're in for a bummer. If LRD2 is right (and i dont doubt him) then it'd be super sweet and easy to just drop the pan and have a gander. but here's the issue; the trans cross member is the most evil piece of metal on the face of the planet. unless you have porta-power (still super jealous longhaul) or super human strength the trans x-member may as well be welded in (in my experience). You can't move anything far enough because the y-pipe is in the way forward, and the trans pan hump is in the way in the back. Good flipping luck. I said if my trans ever went bc i couldnt do the pan filter i'd just rip the exhaust out and drop the whole thing. It sucks. let us know how it shakes out.

Still dirnking.
 
  #16  
Old 07-08-2011, 07:37 PM
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Yeah the Y-pipe is the trouble maker. Get 2 new header gaskets and remove it.
 
  #17  
Old 07-08-2011, 09:24 PM
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Thanks for the offer to call him and all the suggestions. I think it's worth dropping the pan to check it out. I did notice that beefy cross bar and thought that could be a bugger...
 
  #18  
Old 07-09-2011, 07:18 AM
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Cross bar is actually not too bad. Just takes time to remove the hardware. I use a nice ball-peen hammer to knock it around.
 
  #19  
Old 07-09-2011, 09:34 AM
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Few people will have a clue what they are looking at except that it is black and covered in ATF. You will not be able to determine a thing by looking at the valve body and rebuilding it is not as has been described, you need some knowledge, some tools and a handful of smarts.
You have a dead tired tranny, start looking for another either 94 or 95,
Discovery Transmissions - Complete and get on with driving your truck.
 
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